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Old 06-30-2009, 01:05 AM   #1
samc
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I had a stand built & my kegs converted by a moron who is oddly enough employed as a professional welder. To cut to the chase, he welded a half coupler for me to hold my thermometer or probe half way up on the keggle. He mounted it flush on the outside over a hole that was not large enough to put a fitting in from the inside if I wanted to. Bits of grain from the mash get caught up in between the wall and the coupler. A real PITA to clean. Not sure how to drill this hole wider to allow for a straight through opening without damaging the threads on the coupler.

Any ideas? - bringing it back to him is not an option as he already screwed up something on the stand that I had complained about. He is a totally FU.

 
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Old 06-30-2009, 01:11 AM   #2
Yuri_Rage
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Try carefully using a step drill. You might be able to widen the hole without damaging the underlying threads.
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Old 06-30-2009, 04:51 AM   #3
Chester
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i would use a carbide burr in a right angle die grinder. its gonna be hard to control a drill in there.

 
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Old 07-01-2009, 03:55 AM   #4
kcinpdx
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just out of curiosity, did this welder happen to live in Happy Valley? Sounds like the same moron I initially used. PM me and I'll give you the email address of a home brewing welder in SE PDX who is super nice and works cheap.

 
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Old 07-01-2009, 07:15 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yuri_Rage View Post
Try carefully using a step drill. You might be able to widen the hole without damaging the underlying threads.
Do what Yuri stated as well run a tap from the inside of the keg as the cooling shrink after the weld will make the coupling undersized and hard to thread onto at times.
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Old 07-01-2009, 02:30 PM   #6
Bobby_M
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....However, if it's really a "half coupler" then there are no accessible threads on the inside. I'd suggest drilling it out with a step bit from the inside and just stop when you start hitting threads. If you damage any thread, it will be on the inside where your thermo would never reach anyway.

Did you clearly tell the guy what you wanted or just leave it up to him? When I dropped my vessels off, they were scribbled on big time with a sharpie telling him exactly what to place where and how.
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Old 07-01-2009, 03:37 PM   #7
samc
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It was a full coupler cut in half. I thought I was pretty clear on what I wanted and he took notes in his notebook but I would bet that he did not go back to them when doing the job.

Yeah I am not concerned about attaching from the inside, just eliminating the clean up issues.

Thanks

 
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Old 07-02-2009, 05:41 AM   #8
BrewBeemer
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The last brewing system I build and sold way too soon I used half couplings and bored out the threads on the inside intil there were only enough threads for coupling fittings from the outside of the kegs. This prevented collecting crap in the exposed threads. The couplings I cut the OD down and back by a little over 3/16" that would fit tight in the kegs hole. After it was welded from the outside what part of the coupling that stuck beyond the keg inside was ground down flush to the inside of the keg. Then with the Tig only fusion welded down the center of this hairline tight joint.
On couplings with a fitting attached to the inside made a deeper step and Tig around the inside of the keg and coupling. With a lathe in the shop parts are machined to fit the project at hand.
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Old 07-03-2009, 04:30 PM   #9
JZinNM
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If you're nervous about hitting the threads with the step drill, you should consider using a bushing in the coupling. If it's a 1/2" fitting, then put in a 1/2" X 3/8" bushing. This will protect the 1/2" threads and provide a centering point for the drill. The bushing should cost less than a buck at your local hardware store. Good luck.

 
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Old 07-03-2009, 04:40 PM   #10
samc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JZinNM View Post
If you're nervous about hitting the threads with the step drill, you should consider using a bushing in the coupling. If it's a 1/2" fitting, then put in a 1/2" X 3/8" bushing. This will protect the 1/2" threads and provide a centering point for the drill. The bushing should cost less than a buck at your local hardware store. Good luck.
Yeah, this sounds like the cheapest easiest solution. Thanks will give it a go.

 
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