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Old 06-11-2009, 10:20 PM   #11
Bobby_M
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Old 06-17-2009, 03:13 PM   #12
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Curious what Bitterness system your beersmith/promash is set to? I never get IBU calculations to match anyone's posting. I use Beersmith. No matter if I'm set to Garetz, Tinseth, or Rager. Also Beersmith is tell me 28l;b MO in 5G gives me og of 1059. Curious what potential your MO is? Mine says 1038. I'm sure it has something to do with equipment setups and other options. I wish there was a setup wizard

i really need to hone my Beersmith setup down to fit the recipes on here cause I much prefer proven recipes over my experience with my own


*Edit* Noticed the 120Minute boil time.That puts me at 1169 with 55IBUs.....

I would just use your recipe and get what I get, but I'm trying to scale to a 3.5G batch
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Old 06-25-2009, 06:17 PM   #13
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I'm pretty sure it was Rager.
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Old 07-24-2009, 04:17 PM   #14
lebshiff21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IrregularPulse View Post
Curious what Bitterness system your beersmith/promash is set to? I never get IBU calculations to match anyone's posting. I use Beersmith. No matter if I'm set to Garetz, Tinseth, or Rager. Also Beersmith is tell me 28l;b MO in 5G gives me og of 1059. Curious what potential your MO is? Mine says 1038. I'm sure it has something to do with equipment setups and other options. I wish there was a setup wizard

i really need to hone my Beersmith setup down to fit the recipes on here cause I much prefer proven recipes over my experience with my own


*Edit* Noticed the 120Minute boil time.That puts me at 1169 with 55IBUs.....

I would just use your recipe and get what I get, but I'm trying to scale to a 3.5G batch
I noticed the same thing - but there is no sparge which results in a poorer brewhouse efficiency. Set your efficiency to something like 55 or 60% and it drops the OG estimate.

 
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Old 07-24-2009, 06:34 PM   #15
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Correct, you can't expect to get anywhere near your normal efficiency unless you consider both the big and small beers in the calculation.
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Old 07-29-2009, 05:29 PM   #16
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Any thoughts on dry-hopping this? How long/when would you do it if you think it should be done?

 
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Old 07-29-2009, 05:39 PM   #17
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I wanted it to remain as English as possible so I had no intention of hops to be a focal point. If you go that route, I'd call it American and use Magnum/Chinook bittering with Amarillo finishing and Cascade dry hop. I'd dry hop in the secondary at the same time that it sits on oak.
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Old 07-29-2009, 07:52 PM   #18
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Hmm - thanks. I'm going to have some Centennial from my backyard - would they work w/ the EKG?

 
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Old 12-15-2009, 05:09 PM   #19
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Hi Bobby

Doing my first barleywine this weekend. In your recipe description, you say it'd be nicer if it was a little less abv. If you were going to do it again, would you omit the surcose, or does that need to be there to help the yeast attenuate? I've got 29# in mine right now, going to pitch two packets of rehydrated S-05, unless someone suggestes otherwise. My LHBS doesnt have Wyeast 9093 in stock right now. The farther away HBS has WLP099, but i'm not sure I like the description about esters being present with high abv..
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Old 12-15-2009, 06:21 PM   #20
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It's hard for me to know how much attenuation you'll get out of two packs of US05 since I pitched mine on a huge cake from a previous batch. I honestly thought it was going to quite at about 1.030 but it kept going down to 1.024 if I recall (whatever 13% would be because I remember that number specifically).

I think it would be reasonable follow my recipe and see where it ends up with the two packs of yeast. You can opt to hold the sucrose back for now and see how the ferment progresses. If you want to, you can later dissolve the sugar in a bit of water, boil, cool and feed the primary.
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