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Old 06-03-2009, 03:43 PM   #1
irishod89
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Apr 2009
Posts: 27


Hey all,

I put together a recipe from different things I've seen on here and other sights, but would like some feedback. It's my 4th brew ever and second non-kit recipe. Here's a link for the recipe: hopville . "OTO IPA" Imperial IPA Recipe

Few questions,

1. How/when is the corn sugar added?

2. My equipment can handle a solid 4g boil, are my hop additions about right to balance bitterness, flavor, and aroma?

3. Should I vary my hop varieties or stick with all centennial?

4. Since it's a bigger beer do I need to more yeast, or will one package of the 1056 work?

Thanks in advance for all the help, this sight is great.

First post so let me know if the link to the recipe isn't working.

 
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Old 06-03-2009, 03:54 PM   #2
beerkrump
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Mar 2009
Triune, TN
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1)Looks pretty good. I'd swap the sugar for a couple more pounds of Light DME.
2)You're fine.
3)Keep the Centennials. When I started brewing I went nuts with different hops and had trouble telling which hop contributed what flavor to the beer. After a few batches of single hop pale ale, I educated my palate and started to identify hops in commercial brews.
4)Make a 1L starter and your yeast should be fine.

 
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Old 06-03-2009, 04:08 PM   #3
ohiobrewtus
 
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Nov 2006
Ohio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irishod89 View Post
Hey all,

I put together a recipe from different things I've seen on here and other sights, but would like some feedback. It's my 4th brew ever and second non-kit recipe. Here's a link for the recipe: hopville . "OTO IPA" Imperial IPA Recipe

Few questions,

1. How/when is the corn sugar added?
I typically add it in the last 5 mintes of the boil.

Quote:
Originally Posted by irishod89 View Post
2. My equipment can handle a solid 4g boil, are my hop additions about right to balance bitterness, flavor, and aroma?
That's all in the eye of the beholder. If you think it looks right, then go with it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by irishod89 View Post
3. Should I vary my hop varieties or stick with all centennial?
Again, there's no right answer to this. If you really dig Centennial, then this hopbill looks good.

Quote:
Originally Posted by irishod89 View Post
4. Since it's a bigger beer do I need to more yeast, or will one package of the 1056 work?
At 1.078, one package should be sufficient.
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Originally Posted by the_bird
Well, if you *love* it.... again, note that my A.S.S. has five pounds.

 
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Old 06-03-2009, 04:27 PM   #4
Beerrific
 
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Mar 2007
Georgia
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For 5 gallons of a 1.078 beer, you need a pretty big starter, probably 3 liters to get you up to the truly desired pitching rate. You could also use 2 packs and smaller starter.

http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html

 
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Old 06-03-2009, 04:35 PM   #5
samc
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Aug 2008
Portland OR
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Sounds like a good beer. I like one hoppers and Centennial is a favorite. The corn sugar boosts the alcohol so I would leave it as is unless you want to change the beer style.

I went from dry yeast (crap) to liquid (pain) back to dry yeast Safale 05 (yeah simple) and one pack will work well without starters. Last batch dry pitched 1.080 beer fermented out nicely 5 days @ 64F. Very happy camper!

 
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Old 06-03-2009, 04:44 PM   #6
Beerrific
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samc View Post
The corn sugar boosts the alcohol so I would leave it as is unless you want to change the beer style.
I think the corn sugar is good. Leave it in there. It is appropriate for the style. It not only boosts the ABV, but it makes sure that the beer finishes dry which is absolutely necessary for an IIPA, IMO.

 
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Old 06-03-2009, 05:34 PM   #7
irishod89
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Apr 2009
Posts: 27

Thanks for the advice so far. Quick follow up question. I've yet to make a yeast starter, my first two kits were dry yeast and last batch I used a "smack pack" type liquid yeast. Anyone else have opinions on which to use? Dry yeast is much cheaper, and easier, but is it at all inferior? The "smack pack" was really easy as well, but more expensive. Thanks again.

 
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Old 06-03-2009, 05:34 PM   #8
carbon111
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May 2009
Pacific NW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beerkrump View Post
1)Looks pretty good. I'd swap the sugar for a couple more pounds of Light DME.
+1

Sounds like a great IIPA.
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Fermenting: Carbon's Grizzly Bear, Young's Special London Ale (clone)

Bottled/Conditioning:Siberian Raven Winter Ale, Cherry Tree Porter, Victoria's Dirty Secret

Drinking: Montgomery Scottish Ale, Thames American Bitter, Crow's Beak Old Ale, Bastet Brown, Carbon's Cascade Ale, Red Silo Honey IPA

 
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Old 06-03-2009, 05:56 PM   #9
samc
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Aug 2008
Portland OR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irishod89 View Post
Dry yeast is much cheaper, and easier, but is it at all inferior?

Forgot to mention in my previous post that I have brewed a Ruination Clone several times and used WLP007 liquid and S04 dry yeast and the only difference was faster & easier ferment with the dry. I doubt there are many people who could discern the difference in the beer in a blind tasting, although I expect to hear some arguments from each side.


Beer Home Brewing Why use Fermentis Yeast

 
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Old 06-04-2009, 02:24 AM   #10
Beerrific
 
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Mar 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irishod89 View Post
Thanks for the advice so far. Quick follow up question. I've yet to make a yeast starter, my first two kits were dry yeast and last batch I used a "smack pack" type liquid yeast. Anyone else have opinions on which to use? Dry yeast is much cheaper, and easier, but is it at all inferior? The "smack pack" was really easy as well, but more expensive. Thanks again.
I use US-05 a lot. I think it is an excellent yeast for a IIPA and would not hesitate to use it myself in a IIPA. It is very, very similar to WLP001 and Wyeast 1056. Use the Mr. Malty site for amount to pitch and re-hydrate and you are golden.

I can tell a difference in the US-05 vs. 001 especially in the flavor/aroma right after fermentation. But, after a couple weeks cold and the yeast drops the difference is minimal, except that US-05 will usually ferment the same wort drier, which just fine in an IIPA IMO.

 
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