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Old 05-21-2009, 05:20 PM   #1
TwoHeadsBrewing
 
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I pretty regularly have Edwort's Haus Ale, and BM's Centennial Blonde Ale on tap but I wanted to brew up a Pale Ale with a bit more flavor and bitterness. Below is my recipe as of right now, but I'm looking for a critique. Let me know what you think. Many thanks!

-- 1056 Pale Ale (11 gallon batch - 80% efficiency) --

Grain Bill:
18.00 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 83.72 %
1.50 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 6.98 %
0.25 lb Roasted Barley (300.0 SRM) Grain 1.15 %
1.00 lb Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 4.65 %
1.00 lb White Wheat Malt (2.4 SRM) Grain 4.65 %

Hops:
1.00 oz Cascade [6.00 %] (60 min) (First Wort Hop) Hops 10.3 IBU
1.00 oz Cascade [6.00 %] (60 min) Hops 9.4 IBU
2.00 oz Centennial [10.00 %] (15 min) Hops 15.7 IBU
2.00 oz Centennial [10.00 %] (5 min) Hops 6.3 IBU

Yeast and Misc:
2 Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15.0 min) Misc
(Carboy #1) - 1 Pkgs American Ale (Wyeast Labs #1056) Yeast-Ale
(Carboy #2) - 2 Pkgs Nottingham (Danstar #-)

Mash:
Mash for 60 minutes @ 154F
Mash out @ 180F
Fly sparge to collect 12.8 gallons

Beer Stats:
OG: 1.056
FG: 1.013
IBU: 41.5
SRM: 11.1 (gold/copper)
ABV: 5.6%

Fermenation and Kegging:
3 weeks @ 68F
Keg and Force carbonate @ 12psi for 2.6 vols of CO2
Carb and Condition for 2 weeks @ 37F
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Old 05-21-2009, 05:32 PM   #2
bbrim
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You are definitely going to want to increase the bitterness here. It's a good idea to calculate FWH as though it were a 20 minute addition for it's bitterness level. Off the top of my head that is in the neighborhood of 12 IBU. That's low 30s overall in the beer giving you an IBU:SG ratio around .6. If you want it really bitter this number should be around .9 and some guys would say even higher. The first wort additions do achieve the IBUs your program indicated but they are percieved differently for some reason. I'd throw another ounce of cascade in at the start of the boil. Just my opinion.

 
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Old 05-21-2009, 05:35 PM   #3
TwoHeadsBrewing
 
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I don't care to have it really bitter, but just bitter enough. I think Ed's Haus pale is around 30 IBU, so I'd really like to shoot for a bit higher at 40-45 which is the upper range for the style.
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Old 05-21-2009, 05:38 PM   #4
ericm
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interesting choice on the roasted barley.. I'm guessing it doesn't really add much flavor at that amount, just color? I think I'd probably instead go with some victory or biscuit or something like that. (or more crystal, and then mash lower to compensate for the FG)

 
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Old 05-21-2009, 06:09 PM   #5

Don't know if the information has changed in the last few years, but that mash out temp looks very high to me. From what I recall, the mash out temp should be around 168. Sparge water not over 170. Above this you risk heavy astringency as the tannins and such can be more heavily extracted from the husk material. No time to look this up at the moment, but maybe read up on this. If someone has contrary information, please post it.
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Old 05-21-2009, 06:09 PM   #6
TwoHeadsBrewing
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericm View Post
interesting choice on the roasted barley.. I'm guessing it doesn't really add much flavor at that amount, just color? I think I'd probably instead go with some victory or biscuit or something like that. (or more crystal, and then mash lower to compensate for the FG)
Yes, I added that just for a reddish/copper color. I don't expect to taste it at all. I almost added some biscuit in there, but I'd have to add about a pound for the same color. I was going to use 120L, but didn't have any on hand.
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Old 05-21-2009, 06:15 PM   #7

This is about sparging, but the temp is worth noting:

How to Brew - By John Palmer - Getting the Wort Out (Lautering)

Quote:
The temperature of the sparge water is important. The water should be no more than 170°F, as husk tannins become more soluble above this temperature, depending on wort pH. This could lead to astringency in the beer.
and

Quote:
What is Mashout?

Before the sweet wort is drained from the mash and the grain is rinsed (sparged) of the residual sugars, many brewers perform a mashout. Mashout is the term for raising the temperature of the mash to 170°F prior to lautering. This step stops all of the enzyme action (preserving your fermentable sugar profile) and makes the grainbed and wort more fluid. For most mashes with a ratio of 1.5-2 quarts of water per pound of grain, the mashout is not needed. The grainbed will be loose enough to flow well. For a thicker mash, or a mash composed of more than 25% of wheat or oats, a mashout may be needed to prevent a Set Mash/Stuck Sparge. This is when the grain bed plugs up and no liquid will flow through it. A mashout helps prevent this by making the sugars more fluid; like the difference between warm and cold honey. The mashout step can be done using external heat or by adding hot water according to the multi-rest infusion calculations. (See chapter 16.) A lot of homebrewers tend to skip the mashout step for most mashes with no consequences.
Hope this helps.
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Old 05-21-2009, 06:23 PM   #8
TwoHeadsBrewing
 
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I think you misunderstood:

Mash temp is 154F for 60 minutes, mashout WATER is 180F which will just barely bring the mash temp up to 170F, if that. I don't plan to raise the temp of the grain to 180F.
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Old 05-21-2009, 06:24 PM   #9

Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoHeadsBrewing View Post
I think you misunderstood:

Mash temp is 154F for 60 minutes, mashout WATER is 180F which will just barely bring the mash temp up to 170F, if that. I don't plan to raise the temp of the grain to 180F.
Ah cool then. As you were!
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Old 05-21-2009, 06:33 PM   #10
macabra11
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Yeah, I would add another oz of cascade at the 60mins to get the IBUs more in range. I am assuming the wheat is for better head retention (like the Carapils)? Why not use all carapils?

Are you going to blend your two carboys with different yeast after fermentation, or are you just experimenting with the different strains for different flavors? I think it would be cool to try the Wyeast 1056 beside a Safeale US-05!
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