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Old 08-03-2006, 06:56 PM   #1
AHammer16
 
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What are you guys and gals using when you have you co2 tank outside of your keggerators? I am not sure where to get parts to run my co2 throught the side wall of the fridge much less what parts to get.

Could you post pics of your set up for me?
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Old 08-03-2006, 07:22 PM   #2
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All I have is a 2 1/2 inch piece of 1/4" pipe with gas nipples on either side. Nothing complicated. I drilled the hole a little small and reamed it until I had a tight fit. The pipe is exactly the length needed so the fittings are snug to the walls. I didn't even need caulk.
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Old 08-04-2006, 10:57 PM   #3
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I have a 4" brass nipple running through the fridge with rubber gromets sealing it to the wall. Ouside it is connected to a master valve then tubing running to the tank. Inside is a 4-valve manifold with valves for each line.
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Old 08-04-2006, 11:00 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AHammer16
I am not sure where to get parts to run my co2 throught the side wall of the fridge much less what parts to get.
I ordered parts from McMaster/Karr online. I'm also using 1/4'' push-connect fittings for the gas. You can get all of the brass parts at Home Depot or any other hardware store. I used this http://www.ihomebrewsolutions.com/Th...dgeProject.pdf as the basis for mine. Thanks and props to tnlandsailor. Now everyone go and buy a Hop Stopper!

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Old 08-06-2006, 03:48 AM   #5
EdWort
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Austin Homebrew has just the thing for it. It's a 1/4" MFL bulkhead that's 4 inches long. I bought one for my Beer2Go setup.




http://www.austinhomebrew.com/produc...54521f5f0fbd76

 
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Old 08-06-2006, 08:01 AM   #6
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I just drilled a hole big anufe for the hose to go throw and fed it throw to the reg
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Old 08-06-2006, 11:46 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EdWort
Austin Homebrew has just the thing for it. It's a 1/4" MFL bulkhead that's 4 inches long. I bought one for my Beer2Go setup.




http://www.austinhomebrew.com/produc...54521f5f0fbd76
This looks very nice, and the male flare connections on either end eliminate pipe threads and sealant. The only thing I would watch for here is that clamping the two nuts together will tend to collapse the fridge wall, go easy on it. Also, tightening the flare nuts on, you will have to tighten them simultaneously or tighten one side before putting the bulkhead through the fridge wall using a pair of pliers to grip the tube at the center.

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Old 08-06-2006, 03:15 PM   #8
runhard
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This may have been addressed previously but haven't found it. I'd like to plumb a CO2 line into my refrigerator as well but not sure where to drill. I'm not certain if coils are located in the sides or rear walls. How can I easily determine where it is safe to drill? Any help before I potentially turn this thing into a 150lb paper weight would be greatly appreciated.

Jeffrey

 
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Old 08-06-2006, 03:40 PM   #9
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Read this post

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=10307

Shows you how to locate coils.
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Old 08-06-2006, 03:42 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by runhard
This may have been addressed previously but haven't found it. I'd like to plumb a CO2 line into my refrigerator as well but not sure where to drill. I'm not certain if coils are located in the sides or rear walls. How can I easily determine where it is safe to drill? Any help before I potentially turn this thing into a 150lb paper weight would be greatly appreciated.

Jeffrey
I have taken apart 2 fridges so I AM NOT A EXPERT. But heres what I say in to comletely diffrent models one was avacado green 197? the other a 90's model tappan both only had the coil behind a false wall on the back of the freezer the plate that seperates the fridge and freezer had wires running around the perimmiter(sp). so I would go through either wall or door and not worry to much.

 
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