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Old 05-14-2009, 01:43 AM   #1
ThePearsonFam
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Feb 2009
Scarborough, Maine
Posts: 884
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Greetings,

Here is the link to the photos for my new project:

http://picasaweb.google.com/BeechRid...eat=directlink

My plan is to mount two banjo burners with wind screens under the keg brackets. I also plan to add two March pumps to the bottom front in some sort of enclosure. This is a simple design and is made of materials that I already had around the farm but it is my first time building a stand. I've already pulled from many ideas from this forum... Thanks.

Let me know if you can see an obvious improvement.

Thanks, Rob


 
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Old 05-14-2009, 06:12 AM   #3
CenCalWorthog
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Apr 2009
Fresno, CA
Posts: 137

Your on your way .... Good luck!

 
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Old 05-15-2009, 02:46 AM   #4
ThePearsonFam
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Feb 2009
Scarborough, Maine
Posts: 884
Liked 14 Times on 11 Posts


So, I added some new photos today. I'm not sure if there is a better way to chronicle my progress than to type what I did today and then tell you all that there are new photos. Anyway, here's what I did on the project today:

I rough cut some 12"x5" panels out of 1/8" steel to make wind screens for my banjo burners.
I then ground them down to be smooth, similarly sized and and square. Once I had the panels made, I grouped them in bundles of four to layout and drill guide holes to mount my burners.
I then used a metal cutting dicce on my hand grinder to grind slots between the holes I just drilled. The point of the slots is to facilitate burner adjustment within the wind screens.
I then welded the panels together after cutting four of the panels to accomodate the gas neck on the burners.
Once welded together, I had to weld angle tabs onto the tops of three sides to mount the whole assembly to the underside of the keg brackets.
I had to make spacers to fit between the sides of the wind screen and the bolt brackets on the burners.
Lastly, I welded one final piece onto the space created for the burner's gas neck that would allow for adjustment and still tie it all together.

Tomorrow I hope to lay out the placement of the keg brackets, drill and bolt them on. After that, I'll have to plumb the gas, mount the pumps, mount the gas valves, clean it all up and paint it. Sounds like a couple more days work still. I am guessing that I have about 20 hours in the project thus far.

 
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Old 05-15-2009, 03:03 AM   #5
ThePearsonFam
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Feb 2009
Scarborough, Maine
Posts: 884
Liked 14 Times on 11 Posts


Sorry, here is the link for the new photos:

Picasa Web Albums - Beech Ridge Brewer - 1 Tier Brew S...

 
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Old 05-15-2009, 04:14 AM   #6
gifty74
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Mar 2009
Lancaster, PA
Posts: 320
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Also building my own single or two tier, not sure yet. Curious as to why you went with that much depth, what looks to be about 22" or so given a keg that is 16" ĝ. I planned to make mine just over 16" in depth so the keg is nice and close to the edge of the front rail, and me of course. Was looking for insight on your reasoning and maybe mine will change.

 
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Old 05-15-2009, 12:01 PM   #7
ThePearsonFam
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Feb 2009
Scarborough, Maine
Posts: 884
Liked 14 Times on 11 Posts


Good morning,

Actually, I decided on 24" for depth for a couple of reasons:

1) It provides stability when I have kegs/pots full on top. I have four kids and, although they shouldn't be anywhere near this thing when running, I don't want to take any chances on it tipping over.
2) If I go with 24" of depth then I'm not locked into just kegs for brewing pots.

Once I located the brackets that will hold my kegs and burners, you'll be able to see that the wind screen/burner mounting brackets and the kegs brackets are bolted on. I'm bolting them on so that I can change the bracket to accomodate then next pot size. I honestly don't think that I'll go away from the kegs but you never know.

I did initially plan on making the stand 18" deep and 54" wide though... If I were 100% sure I would always use the kegs then I may have made it smaller since I like the thought of smaller, closer and easier to use.

Thanks, Rob

 
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Old 05-15-2009, 12:33 PM   #8
gifty74
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Mar 2009
Lancaster, PA
Posts: 320
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Cool. Yes, now I see the benefit. I am using a Unistrut type material so it makes it essentially fully modular. If I need more depth in the future I can just insert longer crossbars or whatever. Good ideas.

 
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Old 05-15-2009, 01:23 PM   #9
ThePearsonFam
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Feb 2009
Scarborough, Maine
Posts: 884
Liked 14 Times on 11 Posts


Awesome. I had thought about just bolting the wholething together to make it more modular but I opted for the stability of welding since I am using angle iron and not box...

 
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Old 05-15-2009, 11:22 PM   #10
HomebrewJeff
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Jan 2009
Lincoln Park, MI
Posts: 299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePearsonFam View Post
Awesome. I had thought about just bolting the wholething together to make it more modular but I opted for the stability of welding since I am using angle iron and not box...
I actually bolted my angle iron (bed frame) stand together two years ago, and it's still going strong. People warned that I'd be constantly re-tightening the bolts, nope. Structurally, for how we are using it, I couldn't be happier.

That being said, if I had the capability to weld in the beginning, I would have, if for no other reason than it would have been a lot quicker. I just didn't want any vicious rumors about bolted stands getting started.

 
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