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Old 05-06-2009, 01:31 AM   #1
ClutchDude
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I've had the photos around for a while and figured I'd finally post them, in case anyone cares.

I got some pretty gross Sanke couplers from a frat boy a while back. I figured they needed a complete tear-down.

it's pretty self-explanatory, but anyways, onward!

Material:
Need to measure O-Rings......

Tools:
Flat-head screwdriver
Vise-Grip/Channel-lock

1. Remove the coupler handle screw.


2. Pull the coupling handle straight back. It should not need to be angled in any way.


3. Pull the liquid flow probe out of the the coupler body.

Gross, ain't it?

4. Finished. Want to remove that little ball check? Push a small Phillips head screw driver up the liquid valve. It will push the ball and the check-material out.


I used a bottling brush to clean the grimey parts. I also gave it a good solid cleaner with BKF and pulled a few of the o-rings off to clean. I should really have measured them.....Expect an update at some point with the mcmaster #'s.
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Old 05-23-2009, 06:51 PM   #2
RecklessDeck
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Mar 2009
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Nice Pics! Have you managed to measure those O-rings, and more importantly, do you know where to find replacements? I have an old sanke coupler that leaks pressure from the body of the coupler,and I think those internal O-rings are the culprit. the one I'm working on is a slightly older design and the o-rings are inside the body instead of mounted on the probe

 
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Old 05-26-2009, 02:07 PM   #3
ClutchDude
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Not yet! All of my couplers are tied up at the moment.

You can try replacing the main gasket(seals around the ball of the spear), as that's the only real specialty o-ring on the keg.

I'll try to remember to check them out soon and update the post when I get the o-rings and test it out.
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Old 05-26-2009, 02:13 PM   #4
ajwillys
 
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If you have micromatic ones, they sell replacement parts at their site. I've replaced a few parts here and there on mine.

 
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Old 05-26-2009, 02:17 PM   #5
ClutchDude
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Any chance you have the link? I can't seem to find any where on micromatic's site where it sells them.
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Old 05-26-2009, 02:53 PM   #6
ajwillys
 
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It's kinda hard to link to. Click on one of the sanke couplers that matches what you have, then click the Replacement Parts tab. It will take you to a list of items that you can add to your cart.

For example, click the link below and then click the Replacement Parts tab.
Keg Tap Coupler - D System

EDIT: You can also do this with regulators and other stuff, which is handy.

 
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Old 05-27-2009, 04:34 PM   #7
wilserbrewer
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Thanks for the lesson Clutchdude, had I known it was this simple I would probably be doing this already. I must admit, I'm a little afraid what I might find lurking in my couplers.

 
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Old 05-27-2009, 04:51 PM   #8
ClutchDude
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Thanks for the link AJ!

I've got NADS couplers and part of me wonders if the manufacturing standard between Perlick, Micromatic and NADS is so similar that parts might be interchangable. I was thinking of changing my probes over to SS, since some of them just could not get as clean as I'd hope. Being able to buy a single $20 part is still cheaper than having to buy brand new couplers.
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Old 05-27-2009, 07:49 PM   #9
ajwillys
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ClutchDude View Post
Thanks for the link AJ!

I've got NADS couplers and part of me wonders if the manufacturing standard between Perlick, Micromatic and NADS is so similar that parts might be interchangable. I was thinking of changing my probes over to SS, since some of them just could not get as clean as I'd hope. Being able to buy a single $20 part is still cheaper than having to buy brand new couplers.
No problem, glad it helped! I think I may have a NADS or two laying around at home. I know I have some that look like that picture. What part are you looking to change out? I can try a Micromatic part in a NADS coupler if you want. I might also have a Perlick or two, not sure.

 
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Old 05-27-2009, 08:15 PM   #10
ClutchDude
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A NADS body with a Micromatic probe is what I'm thinking of doing. NADS doesn't seem to have any resellers for parts.

I can't imagine much variance, as the probe has to be pushed down a certain amount per industry standard. The only difference could be in notch positioning with the handle that pushes it down.
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