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Old 01-04-2010, 10:03 PM   #701
tincob
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Oct 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chucke View Post
I'm drinking a NC Scottish Ale at this writting.

As to the racking- a ball valve on your BK would make the whole NC process so easy that you would wonder why you didn't add it before.
I'm a stove top brewer and my BK is one of those paper thin turkey fryer aluminum pot. The price was right though - free!

Otherwise, I would have found a way to add a ball valve.

How long did you primary the Scottish Ale? My kit instructions from Midwest tells me 2 weeks - which seems on the short side.

I am planning on 3 weeks + 1 week cold crashing in the chilly garage before I bottle.

 
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Old 01-04-2010, 10:24 PM   #702
chucke
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Mar 2009
East Central Alabama
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I've got one of those paper thin turkey fryer pots, and I've added a ball valve to it. You just need to be careful when you drill the hole... there's not going to be a lot of resistance.
I used a dremel tool and it almost got away from me.

My SA sat in the primary for a little over 3 weeks, cold crashed and 2 weeks cold conditioning. I probably should let it sit a bit longer...

 
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Old 01-07-2010, 10:42 PM   #703
ChadLeBald
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Originally Posted by KopyKat View Post
I use these. Pour is 100% and will swell when hot wort is poured in to almost 5.5 gallon if you wish.

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/ite...5633&catid=816
After read through much of this thread, I'm really curious to try no-chill.

However, I do have a concern re: placing near-boiling liquid into plastic, HDPE or otherwise. Out of curiosity, I did call US Plastic to ask them about temp threshold, and they said "180 degrees." I'd have felt more comfortable if they responded with something nearer to 200.

Any of you using this method able to allay my concern? Or, do you simply follow the "we're all gonna die from something" mantra?

 
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Old 01-07-2010, 11:24 PM   #704
teach
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Nov 2008
Austin, TX
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I just wait until the wort just cools down to near 180. Just getting it out of the hot kettle and pouring it through the air brings it down enough, IMO.

 
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Old 01-07-2010, 11:44 PM   #705
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teach View Post
I just wait until the wort just cools down to near 180. Just getting it out of the hot kettle and pouring it through the air brings it down enough, IMO.
Good point. And I guess a 20-minute whirlpool at knockout will also bring the temp down a bit...
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Old 01-08-2010, 01:56 AM   #706
bakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teach View Post
I just wait until the wort just cools down to near 180. Just getting it out of the hot kettle and pouring it through the air brings it down enough, IMO.
Yeah, but you want the wort to be near boiling as it goes into the cube -- this kills any nasties in the cube.
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Old 01-08-2010, 07:00 PM   #707
pnj
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Mar 2009
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why not sanitize the cube first?

 
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Old 01-08-2010, 07:06 PM   #708
wyzazz
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You sanitize the cube and then sterilize it with the boiling wort as well. There is a greater risk of infection with the no chill method so you need to be as clean/sanitary as possible.
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Old 01-08-2010, 07:46 PM   #709
The Pol
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FWIW, the hot wort doesnt sterilize anything.

At best you sanitizing or pasteurizing, but it does help to a degree I am sure.

 
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Old 01-08-2010, 08:07 PM   #710
wyzazz
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You are correct I should have put "sterilize" in quotes, or maybe used different terminology. It would have to be much hotter to sterilize, and it would also need more contact time. Let me recant my previous statement and just say "it helps to kill bad stuff".
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And I'd like to see my 1.080 beers ready from grain to glass in a week, and served to me by red-headed twin penthouse pets wearing garter belts and fishnet stockings, with Irish accents, calling me "master luv gun," but we can't always get what we want can we? :)

 
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