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Old 09-22-2009, 02:37 AM   #501
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Pol View Post
What-ever...

WinPaks can handle the boiling temps and vaccuum and pop right back, over and over again.

I will be doing this live on a webcast tomorrow.
How do we get the webcast?
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Old 09-22-2009, 02:39 AM   #502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McCuckerson View Post
How do we get the webcast?
Here is the link to the thread on it...
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f14/brew...2-09-a-137264/

I have photos, recipe and details down to the water profile already posted. I have a few prelim. pics of the milled grain.

 
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Old 09-22-2009, 01:06 PM   #503
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Are there any resources out there that address how to handle especially high-acid bittering hops? I'd like to do a recipe with only sorachi ace (13%). I'd like to do this no-chill. I agree with Pol's suggested hop schedule; it has worked well for me for 2 brews now. But, I am concerned with putting in such high percentage hops at flameout and letting them sit for hours at high temps. I don't want to end up with super bitter beer.

Or perhaps it is the group consensus that using lower percentage hops is more approptiate to this style of brew?
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Old 09-22-2009, 01:17 PM   #504
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Also. I have good news. I served a case of no-chill pale ale at my lil girls B-day party last weekend. It was very well received overall. I think its a great beer and approaches commercial quality with regard to taste, aroma and mouthfeel.

My only gripe with the brew is the cloudyness. It is moderately cloudy. To be fair, I did not use ANY fining agents in the boil or primary so that may be the culprit.

I used WLP 051 Cal Ale V yeast, pitched July 18, I left it in Primary until Aug 19. Then Added 1 ounce of fuggles for dry hop. Bottled on the 24th of Aug. Served on the 19th of September.

I'll soon be reporting on a follow-up: an american amber style no chill, also with no finings and I'll be bottling that this week. It will be interesting to see if it is clear or not.

Overall, I like this style of brewing because it takes a lot less time because I have no decent way to chill 5+gallons of wort quickly.
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Old 09-22-2009, 01:54 PM   #505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nutty_gnome View Post
I served a case of no-chill pale ale at my lil girls B-day party last weekend.
Uh, how old were they? I'm getting a vision of 5-year olds drinking home-brewed beer while they play pin the tail on the donkey.

 
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Old 09-22-2009, 01:55 PM   #506
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Haha! No No.. it was the parents who indulged while thier kids got hopped up on cake and ice cream.
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Old 09-22-2009, 05:21 PM   #507
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so on the chart, "transfer" just means flameout (then remove when pouring into carboy/winpack)?

 
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Old 09-22-2009, 05:54 PM   #508
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also the chart doesnt mention what to do if the orginal recipe has FWH in it, keep it the same?

 
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Old 09-22-2009, 06:26 PM   #509
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkov View Post
also the chart doesnt mention what to do if the orginal recipe has FWH in it, keep it the same?
FWIW, I don't think you can exactly replicate a recipe with no-chill. You can get close. I also use most recipes as a starting point anyway, so it isn't a huge deal to me. Last few beers have all been 60 minutes and cube-hopped. Been turning out well. I over hopped a few of my early ones, but so far so good on last few batches.

Pol, don't think you ever said exactly why you were moving away from cube-hopping (or at least updated the chart to that effect).

 
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Old 09-22-2009, 06:46 PM   #510
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Pol View Post
That surprises me... I have to change the hop schedule, since the length of time at near boiling temps is still giving me isomerization.
ive read for bitter hops, "There is some improvement in the isomerization between 45 and 90 minutes (about 5%), but only a small improvement at longer times ( <1%). (howtobrew)"

also for finishing hops, "When hops are added during the final minutes of the boil, less of the aromatic oils are lost to evaporation and more hop aroma is retained."
but with no chiller, i always have the lid on(wether be on the pot or carboy) so i cant be losing a significant amount due to evaporation(verus a chiller chilling in the pot)?

"Hop resins act like oil in water. It takes the boiling action of the wort to isomerize them, which means that the chemical structure of the alpha acid compounds is altered so that the water molecules can attach and these compounds can dissolve into the wort. The percentage of the total alpha acids that are isomerized and survive into the finished beer, i.e. utilized, is termed the "utilization". Under homebrewing conditions, utilization generally tops out at 30%."

 
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