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Old 08-12-2012, 08:41 AM   #1301
onthekeg
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The cold break in the wort won't make any difference to the clarity of the final beer. That is dependent on other factors like
1. pH
2. Yeast in suspension
3. Water quality
4. Starch in suspension from incomplete conversion etc.

 
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Old 08-12-2012, 08:53 AM   #1302
crushingblackdoom
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Ahhh. Thanx dude. Any thoughts on aerating by pouring thru the tap?

 
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Old 08-12-2012, 08:55 AM   #1303
onthekeg
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I don't generally run it through the out post, I dump into my fermenter from the big opening in the corny when I go to fermentation. I don't think it will aerate too much that way, but go ahead and try. I would push it with filtered air though, rather than CO2.

 
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Old 08-12-2012, 09:42 PM   #1304
thughes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kzimmer0817 View Post
For those of you who No Chill in a HDPE container and pitch yeast the next day: Since the plastic container sinks in during the cooling, I'm thinking that there's a vacuum in the container when you get ready to pitch. Upon opening the container, I would expect a decent influx of air - and stuff - into the container. Do you place a Starsan-soaked rag over the lid as you remove it?

Perhaps this is much ado about nothing, so I'm probably answering my own question. I guess you'd be likely to pick up more stuff from the surrounding air during transfer from the cube into the fermentation vessel (at least as much as when you're racking from kettle into FV after removal of your immersion chiller) than you would from a little gasp from the vacuum releasing.

Thanks,
Keith
If you break the vacuum and then pitch the yeast there will be no problems. If you break the vacuum and let the nasties in while you are drawing off some cooled wort to make a starter with the intent of pitching in a day or two when the starter gets going? Well....let's just say it's not a good idea, and leave it at that.
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Old 08-31-2012, 10:04 PM   #1305
dozer5454
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For people looking to find a no chill cube, I was in WinCo shopping with SWMBO, when I came across their water jugs and fill station. Sitting underneath the five gallon jugs was a perfect white 5 gallon cube with a rather tough screw top. Thinking there was no way I could be that lucky I strolled over and flipped it over to see what it was made of. Sure enough there was the HDPE markings. So I picked up two, figuring if I can't use it for no chill I can take it camping with the family for water. I fired up the keg with a little over 5 gallons of water, brought it to a boil, checked the temp 212 degrees, killed the fire and transferred the water into the container. Removing all the air took a bit of time, a few near burns and some swearing but I got almost all of it out. Low and behold a few days later the sides were caved in a slight bit but otherwise this thing was perfect. 212 degrees, which I thought would leave it in a gooey mess on my garage floor, was no problem. So if anyone is near a WinCo you should check them out. As they look really close to the WinPacks I don't thing stacking would be too tough either. And at just over $5 its not a bad price at all.

 
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Old 08-31-2012, 10:57 PM   #1306
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I don't bother with getting most of the air out anymore, squeezing with your knees burns like hell on a hot cube. But I do have my software to account for filling the cubes with a little left over in-case I undershoot my target volumes.

My cubes just get filled to the brim.
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Old 09-18-2012, 07:14 PM   #1307
chrismcnally
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saccharomyces View Post
Got my 6 gallon containers in from US Plastics today.



I have a ton of #2 bungs and several blowoff setups for #2 so I drilled 5/8" holes in the center of the lids rather than buying 11.5 bungs.
Do you no chill in that container? what happens as the wort cools, do the sides cave in a bit? The containers pictured do not look very flexible for the vacuum created as the wort cools.

I like the looks of those and I only want to no chill in them, or maybe ferment. Do you transfer it to remove cold break or anything?

Reason: typo

 
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Old 09-18-2012, 07:31 PM   #1308
jds
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrismcnally View Post
Do you no chill in that container? what happens as the wort cools, do the sides cave in a bit? The containers pictured do not look very flexible for the vacuum crated as the wort cools.

I like the looks of those and I only want to no chill in them, or maybe ferment. Do you transfer it to remove cold break or anything?
I use these containers. Yes, the sides suck in as the wort cools. I cool overnight (mostly, sometimes longer), and then pour everything, break and all, into a 6.5 gal. carboy through a sanitized funnel.

My only complaints about the US Plastics containers are (1) they neck is too small to get a hand through, so you have to count on lots of soaking to get the interior clean, and (2) it's hard to get ALL the liquid out afterward. Otherwise, I'm happy using these containers for no-chill.

I've also used corny kegs, but I have to adjust my batch size down a bit and usually only clear 4-1/2 gallons or so after fermenting, cold-crashing, and fining.

 
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Old 10-07-2012, 09:03 PM   #1309
zyx345
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If I have all grain recipe that calls for a 60 minute and 20 minute hop addition. Based on The Pol's hop addition chart (page 17) would your total boil time be 40 minutes? My hop schedule would then be 40 minutes, then flame out correct?

 
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Old 10-07-2012, 11:17 PM   #1310
marcelo
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just do the 60min addition and the flame out. 60 to 90 min is almost no change in IBU.

 
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