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Old 10-05-2011, 02:59 PM   #1111
ghpeel
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyzazz View Post
I have never let my No-Chill batches sit more than 48 hours before pitching yeast, again it just isn't within my comfort zone.
I left a brown ale in the No Chill cube for almost a month before pitching. The beer did not survive 2 parties once I tapped the keg. Delicious.

If your process is correct, and the No Chill cube is sealed airtight, then there's no difference in 2 days or 6 months, in my opinion. The Aussie's who started this whole trend did it because they were buying bulk wort, pre-sealed in jugs, which sat on store shelves for weeks/months before purchase.

Also, I urge you guys NOT to do the chill, then add to the tank. You would have to be 100% sure the tank was sterilized, and I mean that in the more technical sense of the word (not just sanitized).

We can get away with sanitizing our carboys as opposed to sterilizing them, because when we pitch yeast in wort, the yeast takes over the wort quicker than any remaining bugs that aren't nuked by the sanitizer. If you put non-pitched, cool wort in a No Chill tank, then any little bug that survived the sanitizing will be free to chomp away at that wort, without having to compete with the yeast. Anything more than a day or two, and you'll probably have contaminated wort to the point where you can smell the infection. Great for a sour ... not so much for an IPA...

(And on a side note, I don't sanitize my No Chill tank, I just rinse it out well before and after its usage, and occasionally I'll hit it with some PBW. Wet pasteurization from my wort is by FAAARRR a better sanitizer than StarSan can ever hope to be )
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Old 10-05-2011, 03:08 PM   #1112
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I don't know why you couldn't put cooled wort in a sanitized container for pitching later?
I started doing the "no chill" thing a good while back. I asked some questions early in the thread and thought, "What the hell". I started out doing a partial chill out of fear of collapsing my Sanke fermenter. After dealing with that PITA for a few batches, I boiled 10 gallons of water, put it in a Sanke, corked it and let it sit. No damage, but a biotch to get the cork out. Now, I drain my brewpot to a Sanke (which I do sanitize becuase you have to really spin some hot wort to get all of the surface area.) and put a carboy cover on it, seal it with tape. I let it sit for a few days to get to ambient and then put it in the fermentataion chamber to pull it down to about 75F, pull it out, pitch it, set my controller for 60F and leave it a month or so. I would not let the "chilled" wort set for over a couple of days due to contamination concerns as mentioned by the above poster. So far (20 batches?), for me, this no-chill method is the greatest thing since Star San.

 
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Old 10-05-2011, 03:12 PM   #1113
wyzazz
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Originally Posted by Dwain View Post
I boiled 10 gallons of water, put it in a Sanke, corked it and let it sit. No damage, but a biotch to get the cork out.
Good to know, I was worried about that (I use sanke's as well) so I always just used a sterile air filter on my carboy caps.
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And I'd like to see my 1.080 beers ready from grain to glass in a week, and served to me by red-headed twin penthouse pets wearing garter belts and fishnet stockings, with Irish accents, calling me "master luv gun," but we can't always get what we want can we? :)

 
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Old 10-05-2011, 03:28 PM   #1114
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Never thought of a sterile air filter. I call it a carboy cover, it doesn't have a hole in it, but it fits inside the Sanke and has a lip around it so it can't (less likely to) be pulled inside.
BTW if you put boiling wort into a Sanke, don't put bare flesh anywhere around it. That stainless is not nearly as forgiving as plastic!

 
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Old 10-05-2011, 04:13 PM   #1115
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If this has already been mentioned I appoligize. I am at work and cannot read all of the details in every post but...

Is anyone putting the hot wort right from the kettle into their glass Carboy? Or are you gentlemen letting the wort cool in the kettle and then transferring? Thanks for the info.

 
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Old 10-05-2011, 04:20 PM   #1116
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... Of course cleaning and sanitizing first...

 
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Old 10-05-2011, 05:05 PM   #1117
ghpeel
 
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No do NOT put hot wort into the glass carboy. You have the possibility of thermal shock shattering the carboy. Also, if you cap it (as is the practice for No Chilling) then you run the risk of the carboy imploding once the vaccum inside builds as the wort cools and contracts.

No chilling is usually done in a separate container, see the begining of this thread for some links to a few choices. These containers are food safe at boiling liquid temps, and can seal air tight with their cap. Also, some folks use kegs (Sanke and corni) allthough a few report the keg failing under the vacuum. Finally, some folks simply cover their boiling pots with a lid and a few towels over that, but I don't recommend that approach.
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Old 10-05-2011, 05:26 PM   #1118
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Great info, thanks for the help.

 
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Old 10-05-2011, 05:45 PM   #1119
bmeyer46
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i know one thing.... no chill in plastic bucket = ick.
don't try this one folks...take my word for it....NOT good.

I'll describe the flavors I got
corn silk/cidery
I'm guessing DMS.

one thing that is completely weird though, is that about 1 in every 4 bottles is good?
go figure...
I sample each one I open, and if it's ok I drink it...if not...well...down the drain.
I'm just glad it was a cheap cream ale kit that I ruined.
Live and learn...won't do THAT one again! LOL

 
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Old 10-05-2011, 05:50 PM   #1120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmeyer46 View Post
i know one thing.... no chill in plastic bucket = ick.
don't try this one folks...take my word for it....NOT good.
Bah! Some of my best beers were no chilled in a bucket!

 
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