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Old 04-30-2009, 01:30 AM   #1
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My MM2 showed up in the mail today. Pictures shortly.

Question: is there any need to close in the sides when making my hopper? Will the grain end up spilling out the front and back, or will the rotating rollers keep it in check?

Thanks!

-Joe
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Old 04-30-2009, 02:15 AM   #2
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Here it is, right out of the box.



Boy is this thing heavy. And the knurl is sharp. Machining is nice. The gap is set right around 0.040 from the factory.

To make my base I started by cutting two discs with flat sides - one a little bigger than the top of a 5 gallon bucket, one a little smaller. I used 3/4" ply for the top and 3/8" ply for the bottom.



Did a little test fit to figure out where I wanted the mill to live. I decided on dead center for the best weight distribution.



Then I cut the clearance hole with my jigsaw and drilled some holes. Unfortunately, the holes in the aluminum side plates aren't through-holes, so I couldn't use them to locate centers. I had to make my own paper template and make my holes a little bigger. As you can see, I missed. It'd be nice if a template was included or if the holes went all the way through.



Then I cut out a big clearance hole in the 3/8" ply and glued it to the 3/4" ply.



This locates it nicely on the 5 gallon bucket.



In case you were wondering why the flat sides, it's so the whole thing can store neatly inside the bucket when not in use.



Tomorrow or Friday, hopper!

-Joe
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Old 04-30-2009, 02:19 AM   #3
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Very nice! You'll have fun with that for sure.
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Old 04-30-2009, 03:38 AM   #4
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That looks pretty straight forward. Good write up! Of course you are now making my resolve to not spend money on brewing equipment dissolve, and making me want to buy a mill more and more...

 
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Old 04-30-2009, 03:58 AM   #5
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Yeah, you'll want to enclose the sides but it doesn't have to be anything structural. I used some aluminum flashing but plan to switch to 1/8" plexiglass just for fun. My favorite hopper for these is a Deer Park or similar 5 gallon water bottle with the bottom cut off and the narrow neck feeding the mill. I also have the grain pouring into the mill through a 1/2" x 3" slot so the upper portion of the cavity doesn't get all jammed up.
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Old 04-30-2009, 04:44 PM   #6
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Are you doing to use a drill to drive the rollers? I have the mm3 2.0 on its way right now. I am excited about it.

 
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Old 05-02-2009, 09:59 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shay View Post
Are you doing to use a drill to drive the rollers? I have the mm3 2.0 on its way right now. I am excited about it.
Yes, I am. That's why I didn't go with the 2.0. I wanted this to be small and portable, as my storage space is limited.

With that, on to the pictures!

I built a little house to go around the mill to enclose the sides and provide a base for my hopper. 3/4" ply.



I cut the heads off some 1/4" bolts to make locator pins for the house. This also helps keep the side plates of the mill from racking.



Here we are assembled, snug as a bug in a rug. I had to get longer thumbscrews to hold the eccentric sleeves in place for the mill adjusters.



Took the whole thing over to my bandsaw and cut to the slanted line you can see in the last picture. You'll see why in a moment...A little Rustoleum black spray paint makes it almost presentable.



And the reason for the slanted base becomes clear - a second bucket is the hopper! I drilled a 2" hole for the grain to run through and a 1/4" hole so I can re-use one of the original thumbscrews to hold it in place. Notice for PMing or brew-in-a-bag you can grind right into the bag.





The buckets nest neatly and the mill drops inside. The handle of the bottom bucket snaps over the top's rim and the whole thing is easily carried.



Can't wait to try it out tomorrow!

-Joe
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Old 05-03-2009, 01:12 AM   #8
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One final upgrade - baffles to keep the grain from spilling over the sides of the rollers. I was going to just use some flashing, but decided to stick with the wood theme.



-Joe
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Old 05-04-2009, 01:28 AM   #9
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Well, it worked great! The hopper design worked a treat. With the rollers set at 0.040, I had quite a few uncrushed grains. At 0.030 I seemed to be tearing up the husks. I'll try shooting the middle next time.

One question for y'all - I'm assuming you have to have the rollers going before dumping the grain in, right? Do you put a rubberband around the drill's trigger or something?

I ask because I tried starting the drill after the grain was in, and my cordless drill couldn't do it. I had to use my heavy-duty corded drill. Once things started rolling it was no problem.

-Joe
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Old 05-04-2009, 01:53 AM   #10
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I added a crude gate valve for the grain so that I could fill the hopper, start the drill, and then pull the gate to let the grain drop. I use a quick clamp on the drill trigger.
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