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Old 09-15-2013, 01:27 PM   #191
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Originally Posted by scarnera View Post
Would tighting the regulator spring as you described above increase my flame size on LP? The difference was about an inch and a half. (clearly visible after sun down) I love the idea of the automation but hate to think I may spend more time getting up to temps.
Yes, tightening (turning clockwise) the internal regulator spring on the valve will increase downstream pressure to the burner. Keep in mind that the valve has a min and max value that the regulator can regulate... I believe its from 8-12" wc for LP. What is your pressure going to your non-valved burner?


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Old 09-16-2013, 02:01 PM   #192
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Originally Posted by Hockeyman View Post
Yes, tightening (turning clockwise) the internal regulator spring on the valve will increase downstream pressure to the burner. Keep in mind that the valve has a min and max value that the regulator can regulate... I believe its from 8-12" wc for LP. What is your pressure going to your non-valved burner?
Thanks for the response.

Both were running from a 2 stage low pressure regulator. One burner with a HW valve from a 1/2 pipe, the other straight from the same 1/2 inch pipe.


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Old 03-08-2014, 02:51 PM   #193
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So I hate to dig up an old thread (Not really if it gets results ), but I'm curious if this PID would work as a more affordable option.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Digital-...item257b0a8901

I assume it'd be wired like in this photo?
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Old 03-08-2014, 04:09 PM   #194
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So I hate to dig up an old thread (Not really if it gets results ), but I'm curious if this PID would work as a more affordable option.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Digital-...item257b0a8901

I assume it'd be wired like in this photo?
It should work to drive an SSR, but it doesn't have very good documentation on it. It seems like it's relay output for both of its outputs and it didn't say the magical word "SSd", which is short for solid state drive, so there is a slight chance it won't work out of the box as intended. It also doesn't look like it has very good tuning abilities because it has 3 built in settings. Again the verbiage is very vague and I don't know if that is referring to its ability to heat, cool, and heat/cool simultaneously. In any case, at less that $30 it could be worth buying one and testing it out. If it doesn't work, just go buy an Auber for $45 and use this one to control a kegerator. No real loss there.
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Old 03-08-2014, 04:18 PM   #195
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Ha, actually, I think you just talked me into the auber...

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Old 03-08-2014, 04:29 PM   #196
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I have a MYPIN TA4. It works. The documentation sucks but there are enough threads that explain how it works. With that said, if I had the extra money to spend I would switch to Auber, they are just easier to work with.
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Old 03-08-2014, 04:40 PM   #197
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Did you use the version with relay output or ssr? Was it wired to the s8610u like in this example? Did you need an ssr? Sorry for the barrage of questions, I need to cut somewhere and half way through my build this is probably the place...

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Old 03-08-2014, 05:02 PM   #198
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I had the TA4_SSR(had to look at my old Amazon orders). It was used to fire honeywell pilot burner/solenoid valves.
I wired it up using this thread as an example, so no s8610u.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/temp...stions-167050/
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Old 03-08-2014, 05:42 PM   #199
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Ok... I thought I read that if I bought a pid with relay output, an ssr isn't necessary for this setup... Did I misunderstand? Is there an ssr in the original schematic I'm missing? If not, why does this pid require an ssr and the auber doesn't? Sorry for my ignorance, I appreciate the help of the community!

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Old 03-09-2014, 04:46 AM   #200
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For tat schematic you posted today you don't need an neither SSR nor PID with SSR only output. That PID you mentioned (TA4 RNR) has a relay output and fits perfectly for that setup.


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