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Old 07-12-2013, 12:41 PM   #171
kladue
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Look at the wiring diagram for the Y8610U and you will see the wire from the brn/gnd to the pilot burner. A #16 wire from that terminal to one of the screws holding the pilot burner is the normal method of grounding, without that return path the spark power has too find other routes back to the ignition module.
http://www.forwardthinking.honeywell...ll/68_0291.pdf


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Old 07-12-2013, 01:49 PM   #172
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Here is how I have the ground connected. It is pretty sloppy as we are just testing. Also, this may be a non issue when gas is hooked up. It seems to run the spark for 5 to 10 seconds before the PID's go nuts.

Edit
I forgot to mention after this I tried to connect the ground bus to a screw on the frame thinking the connection with the gas manifold wasn't good enough. I had the same thing happen


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Old 07-12-2013, 05:20 PM   #173
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It is still not working but I will update the thread with what I have tried. I changed the ground wire to 14 Gauge with no improvement. I am confident it is a grounding issue but I don't know how to fix it. If I disconnect the small copper gas line that runs from the valve to the igniter the PID's work without incident. I am assuming that the copper line is carrying current. Does anyone have an idea of how to fix it? Any help is appreciated.
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Old 07-12-2013, 06:15 PM   #174
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Route the ground directly to the pilot, eliminate the connection to the valve and retest. The copper tube has lower resistance than the wire and most of the spark current flows back to the module through the copper tube, not the wire to the pilot as configured now. The valve should be be grounded to the frame, ignition module to the pilot.
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Old 07-12-2013, 06:34 PM   #175
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Quote:
The valve should be be grounded to the frame, ignition module to the pilot.
Going to try your suggestion now and will report back. Can you clarify this statement, won't the valve and pilot be connected with the copper gas line also?
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Old 07-12-2013, 07:22 PM   #176
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Still no luck. Also, I stated before that removing the copper gas line fixes the issue. It makes it better (doesn't jump around near as often) but still will every once in a while. I am wondering if this is just a problem with the Aubers. I am assuming when I get gas hooked up that it will call for spark once or twice and then stop. Am I chasing a problem that doesn't need fixed? Can anyone confirm their system doesn't do this with the gas turned off?

Ground from controller to frame

Ground from module to igniter
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Old 07-12-2013, 07:27 PM   #177
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Here is a quick vid of how the behavior looks. You can hear the spark activating.

http://youtu.be/6cCCw0h2i1c
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Old 07-12-2013, 08:51 PM   #178
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The Aubers are not prepared for any electrical noise, usual entry routes are the sensors and power. A quick test would be to pull the sensor loose and try it again, then we will know which route the noise is entering. You might be able to tame it by looping the power and sensor wires through ferrite rings/sleeves from radio shack to reduce the amount of the noise tormenting the Auber PID controller. The ferrite cores should be as close to the controller as practical to limit uptake after the filter. Beyond that then placing the ignition module inside a metal box is the last resort if the controller still acts up.
If the controller does not drop the ignition and you can live with the display going crazy, you might get by with leaving this as is. Not sure if the electrical noise is having adverse effects on the controller, but it is not likely that is doing any good.
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Old 07-12-2013, 09:15 PM   #179
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If I unplug the RTD probes I will get Error displayed on the PID but it will not jump around so I don't know if we can get anything from that (you tell me). I have emailed Auber about the issue as well. They suggest, for troubleshooting, to power the PID from a separate source. If that works what would that tell me?

I really appreciate the help. I can follow a diagram as well as the next guy but when it comes to troubleshooting these issues I am lost.
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Old 07-12-2013, 11:27 PM   #180
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That let me know that the temperature sensor is the culprit for the noise path, and could use the ferrite sleeve to block the electrical noise from the ignition. Another quick test would be to clamp a ground wire between pot and frame and see if that cuts the noise problem down, pot is acting like an antenna for the spark noise.
Another question is the sensor lead wires covered with a braided wire shield?, if so then grounding that will help block the electrical noise.


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