Gas and Temperature Control for Dummies - Page 16 - Home Brew Forums

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Old 03-18-2013, 08:22 PM   #151
fc36
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May 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yavid View Post
Can someone please confirm that the SYL4352 PID is the correct one for this application and NOT the SYL4342? I ordered two SYL2352 (same as the 4352, just smaller) and now I'm worried they're the wrong ones. Want to make sure before I try wiring anything.

This is the one I ordered: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...&products_id=3
You want the 2342 for relay output and not SSR output. The relay output is basically turning on or off the high voltage circuit to the pilot burner. The SSR output will not do that as it is energizing or deenergizing a low voltage DC current to control a higher current. You could do that and use the SSR to control the high voltage to the pilot burner, but why add extra complexity and parts that can fail. See if you can return and swap for the 2342.

 
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:27 PM   #152
Yavid
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Feb 2009
Regina, Saskatchewan
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Thanks. That's what I thought but wanted to make sure before I return anything.

Can someone get in touch with Sawdustguy so he can edit the original post? I'm sure I'm not the first (and prob not the last) person to order the wrong PID because of the mistake.

 
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Old 04-04-2013, 12:53 AM   #153
Yavid
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Feb 2009
Regina, Saskatchewan
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What is everyone using to connect the gas valves to their burners? The gas valves I am using have 3/4" FNPT threads. The NG orifices on my burners have 3/8" male flares. I was thinking I'd use a 3/4"-3/8" reducing bushing like this:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#44605K263

Then use a 3/8" MNPT to 3/8" flare fitting. Then I'd just need to find a gas line with 3/8" flares on both ends. Just not sure how common something like that is. Looked a little online and haven't found much yet.

 
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Old 07-04-2013, 03:38 PM   #154
Yavid
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Feb 2009
Regina, Saskatchewan
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This might be a dumb question but:

First some info:

I've built a brewstand using the design/ideas in this thread. I have (3) honeywell valves & orifices for the Kettle, MLT & HLT. The MLT & HLT have Auber 2342 PID's for temp control. The kettle is simple ON-OFF with a switch. The burners I'm using are Banjo/Hurricane burners that have been converted to NG with a hurricane natural gas conversion orifice/valve.


Now the question:
The valves I'm using are rated for much higher BTU than the burners. Is there any worry about supplying too much gas or is the volume going to be restricted by the NG orifice? Do I need to use a monometer to check the gas pressure coming out of the valves? If so what should the pressure be? Williams Brewing lists 11" W.C.; is that correct?

Reason for asking is that these things burn a hell of a lot hotter than they ever did when I was still running propane and it seems like they're burning a lot of fuel. I'm also unable to get a perfect blue flame, there's always a bit of orange here and there. Makes me wonder if there's more gas coming through the orifice than the burner can handle.

Probably over thinking this. Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.

 
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Old 07-04-2013, 10:11 PM   #155
kladue
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The NG orifice is doing it's job correctly, if too much gas all of the flames will be white-yellow or blue with yellow tips, all flames would be the same, not random flames with color.
The occasional orange flame is likely the oil based paint used on the burner burning off or other contaminants blowing though the inside of the burner, not over fuel. Not to worry the paint oils or contaminants will soon burn off / run out and you will get all blue flames.
To adjust the flame level you can adjust the internal regulator in the honeywell valve to limit maximum flame, unscrew the cover and back off the spring to lower the flame, then put the cover back on.

 
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Old 07-05-2013, 02:45 PM   #156
Yavid
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Feb 2009
Regina, Saskatchewan
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Thanks Kladue.

 
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Old 07-05-2013, 10:41 PM   #157
petrostar
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Jun 2008
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Also, something I didn't see posted in your question. Do you have the proper spring in your gas valves or are you still setup for propane.

 
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Old 07-05-2013, 10:44 PM   #158
petrostar
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Jun 2008
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Also, 11" wc is too high an input pressure for NG 11-14" is for propane. With NG you should be around 7" on the input side and about 3.5" on the output with a standard NG valve.

 
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Old 07-06-2013, 03:31 AM   #159
Yavid
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Feb 2009
Regina, Saskatchewan
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The valves are setup for NG, they've never been used for propane. The 11" WC pressure is listed on the Williams Brewing website; I haven't been able to find a pressure anywhere else. Thought it seemed high as I'm pretty sure my NG supply lists supply pressure as 7" WC (I'd have to check that, I could be wrong). I think I'm going to hook a manometer up to the valves just to see what the output pressure is.

 
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Old 07-06-2013, 04:13 AM   #160
de3isit
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Sep 2011
Murrieta, CA
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Here is the installation instructions for a typical Honeywell gas valve. There is a chart on page 11. The manometer is definitely a good idea.

https://customer.honeywell.com/en-US...ct.Rank&asc=1#
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