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Old 04-23-2009, 07:21 PM   #1
Ewalk02
 
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What style do you think my water quality best suits?

Total Dissolved Solids - 150-230 ppm
Sulfate - 47 ppm
pH - 7.8-8.3
Conductivity - 264-394 (mu)mhos/cm
Alkalinity (as CaCO3) - 47-64 ppm
Hardness (as CaCO3) - 100 ppm
Sodium - 16-31 ppm
Ammonia (as N) - 0.04-0.46 ppm
Chloride - 22-45 ppm

Also if anyone else lives in Westminster, CO and would like to chime in that would be great!

This is all I got from my city of a water quality question I asked.

 
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Old 04-23-2009, 07:37 PM   #2
ArcaneXor
 
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Sulfate is just a tad low for hop character to really "pop"; the rest looks very good for all-around brewing. What's your magnesium and calcium at?

 
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Old 04-23-2009, 07:40 PM   #3
conpewter
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I'd say you are set up fine for pale ales -> ambers. You'll want more alkalinity (bicarbonates) for the darker beers. You'll want to add gypsum for the really hoppy beers. Look into some of the online calculators/spreadsheets. I know howtobrew.com has a great spreadsheet in the section about mashing (13.4?)
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Old 04-23-2009, 08:20 PM   #4
Ewalk02
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by conpewter View Post
You'll want to add gypsum for the really hoppy beers.
This makes me think of another problem I am having. My hoppy beers aren't quite what I expect and this may be a reason. I bought 1 lb of Cascade and 1 lb of Centennial a while back so I've been brewing up pale ales and IPA's recently but they never seem to have quite the "pop" that I want. I recently made a pale ale with 45 ibu's (from beersmith) and it REALLY lacked on anything that would resemble bittering or aroma. I figured it might have something to do with how I've been storing the hops but this might actually be the reason. BTW I've been storing my hops in a foodsaver vaccuum sealed bag in the freezer...I can't smell anything from the outside of the bag but when I open it up the aromas are very strong. These hops are '08 vintage and still very green looking.

Sorry for the novel.

 
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Old 04-23-2009, 08:25 PM   #5
Zaphod
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Heh, I don't suppose you're in the Countryside area? If so, maybe I can just go off your water report for my own
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Old 04-23-2009, 08:42 PM   #6
conpewter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ewalk02 View Post
This makes me think of another problem I am having. My hoppy beers aren't quite what I expect and this may be a reason. I bought 1 lb of Cascade and 1 lb of Centennial a while back so I've been brewing up pale ales and IPA's recently but they never seem to have quite the "pop" that I want. I recently made a pale ale with 45 ibu's (from beersmith) and it REALLY lacked on anything that would resemble bittering or aroma. I figured it might have something to do with how I've been storing the hops but this might actually be the reason. BTW I've been storing my hops in a foodsaver vaccuum sealed bag in the freezer...I can't smell anything from the outside of the bag but when I open it up the aromas are very strong. These hops are '08 vintage and still very green looking.

Sorry for the novel.

Well Burton On Trent has an intersting water profile and they make great IPAs

They have high alkalinity and high hardness, but they match almost perfectly leaving little residual alkalinity (so they are OK for lighter beers - less roasted grain) but they have something like 700 ppm sulfates and very little chlorides (those are the two whose ratio determine malty vs. bitter characteristics of a water). You'd have to do the calculations to figure out how much of which salts to add without messing up your calcium/bicarbonate balance.
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Primary: Nothin
Secondary: Shady Lord RIS, Water to Barleywine, Pumpkin wine, burnt mead
Kegged: Crappy infected mild
Bottles: Apfelwein, 999 Barleywine, Oatmeal Stout, Robust Porter, Robust smoked porter, Simcoe Smash

 
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Old 04-23-2009, 08:45 PM   #7
nealf
 
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Just posted this is another thread earlier today... check out this link, it might help:

Homebrewing and water quality

 
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Old 04-23-2009, 09:05 PM   #8
conpewter
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I've looked at that link before, some of the information is helpful. The table at the bottom is way of for carbonates -therfore bicorbonates.

For example a Porter
Porter
Calcium 60-70

magnesium 0

sodium 40

carbonate (half as alkaline as bicarbonate) 60

sulfate 50-70

chloride 60

That is not nearly enough bicarbonates to have the alkalinity you'll need to counteract the dark grains in a porter, your mash PH would be way off with that formula. Additionally you need some magnesium for the yeast.

Anyway try out Palmer's updated water calculations spreadsheet on the bottom of this page
How to Brew - By John Palmer - Residual Alkalinity and Mash pH
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Primary: Nothin
Secondary: Shady Lord RIS, Water to Barleywine, Pumpkin wine, burnt mead
Kegged: Crappy infected mild
Bottles: Apfelwein, 999 Barleywine, Oatmeal Stout, Robust Porter, Robust smoked porter, Simcoe Smash

 
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Old 04-23-2009, 09:50 PM   #9
Ewalk02
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zaphod View Post
Heh, I don't suppose you're in the Countryside area? If so, maybe I can just go off your water report for my own
You got it, I live on Routt Lane. I just moved there a little while ago but found out my neighbor brews too, if you want I can give you a shout next time we fire up the rig!

 
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Old 04-24-2009, 04:00 AM   #10
Lordsoth
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nealf View Post
Just posted this is another thread earlier today... check out this link, it might help:

Homebrewing and water quality
Hey thanks a lot for that link, quite helpful!

 
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