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Old 02-14-2011, 01:46 AM   #611
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Hey samc, I can "unscrew" mine from the RIMS, and after this series of events, I'll take your advice and disassemble it after each brew and clean it. Thanks.

Still looking for the cause... anybody else have the scorching issue?


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Old 02-14-2011, 01:47 AM   #612
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rekoob has a good point; is there a way to hook up a flow sensor? Does the auber PID have something like that built in as an alarm?


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Old 02-14-2011, 01:55 AM   #613
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That's what confuses me, klyph... my 1500w ld 110v element caramelized up like a marshmallow on the end of a 10 year old's twig at the family campfire... I'm puzzled as to why this happened...
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Old 02-14-2011, 02:44 AM   #614
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or just have a flow sensor cut off pwr to the element if flow stops, like a stuck mash. Just spit balling here.
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Old 02-14-2011, 03:06 AM   #615
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That's what confuses me, klyph... my 1500w ld 110v element caramelized up like a marshmallow on the end of a 10 year old's twig at the family campfire... I'm puzzled as to why this happened...
I have the same set-up, except a 1 1/2 tube. I've never had any problems. IMO, the only thing that could possibly cause scorching and/or carmelization of the wort on the element would be the wort remaining in the tube long enough to be cooked. Since you say your PID is functioning properly, that leaves the flow through the tube. You didn't mention your flow rate. Are you able to pump a pretty good volume through the tube? Are you bumping your PID temperature up for mash out?
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Old 02-14-2011, 04:01 AM   #616
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My flow rate is great... no air in the lines, very strong flow... I'm wondering though, how "fast" do you recirculate your wort? I actually "throttle back" on the march pump to allow for a nice slow "blurbble" of wort back into my mashtun.
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Old 02-14-2011, 04:02 AM   #617
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...and yes, I tend to bump up to 168 for mash out, then sparge at around 170.
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Old 02-14-2011, 04:06 AM   #618
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My flow rate is great... no air in the lines, very strong flow... I'm wondering though, how "fast" do you recirculate your wort? I actually "throttle back" on the march pump to allow for a nice slow "blurbble" of wort back into my mashtun.
I pump as fast as the mashtun drains back to the BK. With a falsebottom and a bottom drain, that's pretty fast. I pump from the BK, as a grant, back to the mashtun. I match the flow by adjusting the pump. Usually, it's a pretty good clip, a pretty good stream that has to be directed at the side of the tun, or it disturbs the grain bed.
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Old 02-14-2011, 04:11 AM   #619
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...and yes, I tend to bump up to 168 for mash out, then sparge at around 170.
I don't sparge, so I mash with total pre-boil volume and recycle during the entire mash, them I'm done. I would think that a thicker-mashed wort might have more tendency to stick to the element, especially at a lower flow. That might be the difference.
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Old 02-14-2011, 04:15 AM   #620
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Quote:
I pump as fast as the mashtun drains back to the BK. With a falsebottom and a bottom drain, that's pretty fast. I pump from the BK, as a grant, back to the mashtun. I match the flow by adjusting the pump. Usually, it's a pretty good clip, a pretty good stream that has to be directed at the side of the tun, or it disturbs the grain bed.
I use a cpvc manifold on the bottom of my igloo cooler mashtun, through the march pump, through the RIMS tube, and back into the top of the cooler. The wort then travels down some hose to an "upturned" recirculating "X" made of cpvc and upturned elbows, allowing the wort to flow "up and out" back onto the bed. Maybe I'll try increasing the flow rate, now that I have a brand spankin' new element from Lowes. (a 4500 ld that I'll run at 110v. I fits in my RIMS with about an inch to spare between it and the RTD.)

Any other thoughts?


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