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Old 12-10-2012, 05:48 AM   #1061
Oct 2012
Posts: 171
Liked 39 Times on 26 Posts

Originally Posted by ebstauffer

Cool. Just checking. I've head nightmares about them overheatng and sticking closrd-
Here's a mod to consider. I cut a hole on the far end of the box and installed a 5 inch AC computer fan that is wired to the main power switch. It's covered by some metal mesh I got at Home Depot. It blows past all the components, including the heat sink that the SSR sits on. Any heat from the fan gets blown out the back exhaust port before it heats anything else up. I've run this set up with the lid closed for several hours in a warm garage without any issues. All told, it probably added about $25 to build cost.
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:00 AM   #1062
JoeyChopps's Avatar
Apr 2011
warner robins, ga
Posts: 1,369
Liked 280 Times on 190 Posts

That's exactly my plan for a ventilation plan I jut haven't taken the time to do it I'm in the begging phase of building my keezer

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Old 12-17-2012, 02:23 PM   #1063
May 2008
Posts: 78
Liked 49 Times on 20 Posts

So I just checked the Auber Instruments site...I don't see a SYL-4352 PID, did they change a part number?

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Old 12-17-2012, 05:15 PM   #1064
Senior Member
stlbeer's Avatar
Jan 2008
Fenton, MO
Posts: 1,025
Liked 49 Times on 47 Posts

Look under 43x2. There are 4 types listed. 4352 has 2 types.

Or simply search for 4352. It will take you to the 43x2 page where you choose the model you want.
My RIMS eBrewery build

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Old 01-01-2013, 07:56 PM   #1065
Jan 2013
Posts: 4

I've had the parts to make one of these for about six months, but on the last brew day I wanted to scale down to a 5 gal batch and I had problems maintaining mash temps with the smaller mass..so time to finally build!

I have everything wired up with the exception of the Auber RTD- this is a three wire model- two red and on white wires. I am using the mypin TA4-SNR. I cannot get this wired correctly- has anyone wired this RTD / PID combination successfully? I get a reading of 1053 for the PV (probe temp). This reading does change when I apply heat so I know the RTD is working.

I have read most of the 107 pages for this thread, but I apologize in advance if this was covered somewhere else that my search did not find-

Thanks, & Happy New Year!

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Old 01-02-2013, 01:00 AM   #1066
Jan 2013
Posts: 4

Originally Posted by TheSavant View Post
I have everything wired up with the exception of the Auber RTD- this is a three wire model- two red and on white wires. I am using the mypin TA4-SNR. I cannot get this wired correctly- has anyone wired this RTD / PID combination successfully? I get a reading of 1053 for the PV (probe temp). This reading does change when I apply heat so I know the RTD is working.
In case anyone else has this issue wanted to post the solution:

Red wire on post 7, jump 8 & 9 with white wire, other red goes on #10.

Also BE SURE to set the Input to RTD- I finally figured this out which solved the problem!

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Old 01-03-2013, 04:14 AM   #1067
Dec 2008
Dundee, IL
Posts: 9
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts


I'm looking to make a portable rims tube setup similar to this and was wondering how would you change this if you were using the LED switches (similar to GCX3253-120L) from Automation Direct? I'm assuming that you would need to incorporate a contactor somehow for switch 1.


Originally Posted by P-J View Post
Here you go:
(Please note that the RIMS is interlocked with the pump so that the RIMS cannot fire unless the pump is switched on.)

As always - click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")

Hope this helps you.


(EDIT: Wow. I just posted # 1000 in this thread.)

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Old 01-08-2013, 11:05 AM   #1068
rpryor's Avatar
Feb 2012
Neptune, New Jersey
Posts: 76
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts

Originally Posted by biestie View Post
Fine fockers, you win. I ordered the trio-clover.
I am starting my RIMS toolbox project and had my mind set on just stainless fittings because it was much cheaper. Until I re-read the end of this thread a million times. Fockers got me too. Just got my RIMS tube from brewers hardware and it looks like its worth the extra cash!!!!

However, I was just going to use the simple selector switches from Auber so I also purchased their 30A-120V contactors to turn the power on to the element however they show on the slip they were out of the 30A-120V and sent a 40-120V but in reality they sent a 40A-240V contactor. Can I still use this in place of the 30amp contactor I originally was going to install?

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Old 01-08-2013, 01:17 PM   #1069
nutty_gnome's Avatar
Jan 2009
Princeton, Nj
Posts: 1,381
Liked 124 Times on 98 Posts

Hello - two questions:
1- Maybe this question has been answered in the thread... but I'm curious why the wort outlet on the tube isn't at the far end of the tube and the thermocouple isn't installed through the middle of the tee. wouldn't that ensure air bubbles would have a way out of the tube (assuming it is mounted vertically) and ensure that the thermocouple is always within the moving wort?

2- Assume I run a BIAB process. For a 5 gallon batch I heat around 8 gallons of water to strike temp using propane. Would the 120v 1500watt tubes in this thread work to keep the mash at the desired temp? Or are these tubes better suited for traditional mash and sparge methods where you are only moving 3 to 4 gallons of mash water?

Any insight is appreciated. Thanks!
It could be worse.

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Old 01-08-2013, 04:38 PM   #1070
May 2010
Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 365
Liked 24 Times on 19 Posts

Originally Posted by JoeyChopps View Post
heres the list of all the ss pieces i used for the tube with quantities
http://www.glaciertanks.com/NPT_TriC...T_1_1_2_Female _to_1_1_2_TriClamp_Heavy_Duty.html 1Ea
http://www.glaciertanks.com/NPT_TriC...eavy_Duty.html 1Ea
http://www.glaciertanks.com/TriClamp...-1_1_2_TC.html 2 Ea
http://www.glaciertanks.com/TriClamp...EAVY_DUTY.html 5 Ea
http://www.glaciertanks.com/Silicone...1_2_White.html 5 Ea
http://www.glaciertanks.com/TriClamp...ong_1_1_2.html 2 Ea

heres the electric stuff i used minus a few odds and ends

1Ea 25 Amp SSR
1Ea 25 Amp heat sink
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...&products_id=3 1Ea
Liquid tight RTD sensor, 4 in, 1/2 NPT Thread 1 Ea

If you want pics of my rig just let me know.
Just wondering why didn't you go with the Tri-Clamp Liquid tight RTD Sensor listed on Auberins website? It would have saved you the hassle of an add'l NPT fitting that may leak and it only costs about $5-10 more than the NPT liquid tight RTDs. It also saves you the $14.95+shipping for the triclamp to 1/2" NPT fitting that you needed.

Update: I just built my temp. controller in a Home Depot toolbox and I'm currently using it for my keezer temps. However, I'll soon be building a RIMS tube similar to yours, so I appreciate all the pics and parts list that you took the time to post. I had a 1/4" NPT RTD probe lying around at work and went for it, but I ended up accidentally burning it out by immersing it in a small Thai food container filled with water in my keezer. <smacks forehead> Stupid! Luckily, I had a cheap air thermocouple lying around as a cheap alternative in the interim for keezer control.

I wanted more accurate liquid temp measurements for potentially better control, but all I found out was; A) don't expose the back end of a "liquid tight" probe to water, because it's only liquid tight on the business side of the fitting; B) liquid temp measurement causes greater swings in keezer temps than air temp measurement because the freezer coils are still super-chilled for a little while after the SSR kicks off. Thus, they impart a much lower interior air temp to the keg until the water catches up. Air temp. measurement takes a little longer to chill down the kegs when you first fire it up or on a newly inserted keg, but once chilled to temp, it tends to keep a tighter control band on the system temp of the keg. Just my two cents on that.

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