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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Brew Stands > Two Tier System Build
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Old 03-27-2009, 01:37 PM   #1
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Default Two Tier System Build

I have some scratch burning a hole in my pocket so I have decided to build a Two Tier System. Time or lack thereof is my enemy so I am cutting a few corners. I do weld but decided to purchase the stand from the Brew-Magic System. This should save me alot of time. It was less than $1000 and a big time savings. I have attached some documents for you to peruse. I am going on a 3 week business trip but have a week off when I come back so the physical build will happen then. I welcome any comments.

Click here to view the Brewery Parts List: http://www.2fatpolocksbbq.com/webima...Parts List.htm



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Old 03-27-2009, 01:41 PM   #2
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Where did ya find the 1500W low density elements? Or is that a 6000W 240VAC element running on 120VAC?
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Old 03-27-2009, 01:45 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by The Pol View Post
Where did ya find the 1500W low density elements? Or is that a 6000W 240VAC element running on 120VAC?
Electric water heater elements, thermostats and faq's - PlumbingSupply.com
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Old 03-27-2009, 01:47 PM   #4
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I'm not a RIMS exchanger guru so I thought I would ask, is it best to regulate the element based on the output of the exchanger, not the input. No?
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Old 03-27-2009, 01:47 PM   #5
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Any reason not to make it all electric since you are already setting up the electric RIMS?
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Old 03-27-2009, 02:03 PM   #6
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I'm not a RIMS exchanger guru so I thought I would ask, is it best to regulate the element based on the output of the exchanger, not the input. No?
Good question. I have been read some posts here that say I should regulate at the output and read some posts that say I should regulate at the input. I was hoping the more experienced members like yourself would chime in and help me decide which way is correct.
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Old 03-27-2009, 02:05 PM   #7
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I'm not a RIMS exchanger guru so I thought I would ask, is it best to regulate the element based on the output of the exchanger, not the input. No?
You are exactly right, you want to measure the temp. of the output only... the input is irrelevent. The input could be 145F... while the output is 160F... if your target is 155F, you can see the problem. The PID needs to meausure the output of the heater, not the input.

You always want to measure what you are doing, not what you are about to do...
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Old 03-27-2009, 02:14 PM   #8
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Any reason not to make it all electric since you are already setting up the electric RIMS?
Another good question. I would have loved to go all electric but my service in the house is only 125 amp. With the electric stove, electric dryer, central air etc. I don't want to push it. I figure another 12.5 amps wouldn't be too bad but if I ran a couple of 3000 watt elements at the same time as some of the higher draw appliances, I would be tempting fate especially during the summer months.
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Old 03-27-2009, 02:16 PM   #9
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Tell me about it... I have a 100amp service. A 200amp upgrade is in my future but I HATE paying contractors to do stuff I can do myself (conceptually).
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Old 03-27-2009, 02:17 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Pol View Post
You are exactly right, you want to measure the temp. of the output only... the input is irrelevent. The input could be 145F... while the output is 160F... if your target is 155F, you can see the problem. The PID needs to meausure the output of the heater, not the input.

You always want to measure what you are doing, not what you are about to do...
Thanks gents. It is easy to turn it around and make the change now before the brewery is built.
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