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Old 01-11-2012, 02:01 PM   #31
pmzjr69
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Dec 2011
North Grafton, Mass
Posts: 54


Question:
I have made "true brew, all malt brown ale" on jan 1st 2012. OG gravity was 1.043. No frementing action since jan 3rd. current gravity reading was 1.022. instructions expecting FG would be 1.010 - 1.012. how much time do i need to wait until start bottling. This inform would be helpful for me to arrange friends for assist with bottle. jan 15th is too soon, I would think.

 
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Old 01-11-2012, 11:14 PM   #32
djbradle
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Nov 2011
Central MA, Ma
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pmzjr69 - What kind of yeast did you use? Dried or liquid? Did you make a starter? I think you probably used dried yeast. Did you rehydrate it properly? For sure you must not bottle at all until your FG is stable and fermentation has indeed stopped. Swirl the primary and bring into a warmer temp zone for that specific yeast and maybe it will kick start again. Sometimes action stops for a couple days.


To the heart of this thread-
I got myself a 7.5 quart brew kettle with thermometer built in, a ss wort chiller, and an extra primary and secondary on top of the deluxe northern brewer brew kit. The wort chiller is unbelievable and gets me down from around 170 to 70 in like 8-10 mins. I have yet to really utilize the brew kettle size properly but now I can due to reading up through this site voraciously. The info in the above 10 points is simply awesome and gave me some great help. I will definitely try steeping in less and do full boils. I usually let the brew kettle rest over two gas burners ( fits just right) and it gives a vigorous boil, not a rolling boil.

I've been good to my yeast but need to further polish the malt understanding. Of course I have barely gotton into my first secondary for my first brew so I'm setting my bar high =)

 
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Old 01-12-2012, 02:36 AM   #33
StophJS
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Sep 2011
Grand Rapids, MI
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I've read in a number of places that it doesn't particularly matter how much water you steep your grains in.

 
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Old 01-12-2012, 10:43 PM   #34
HankyPanky
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Nov 2011
Jacksonville, Florida
Posts: 85
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Its hard for me to get a rolling boil with my electric flat stove top this is a good read tho.

 
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Old 01-14-2012, 04:25 AM   #35
pmzjr69
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Dec 2011
North Grafton, Mass
Posts: 54


Quote:
Originally Posted by djbradle
pmzjr69 - What kind of yeast did you use? Dried or liquid? Did you make a starter? I think you probably used dried yeast. Did you rehydrate it properly? For sure you must not bottle at all until your FG is stable and fermentation has indeed stopped. Swirl the primary and bring into a warmer temp zone for that specific yeast and maybe it will kick start again. Sometimes action stops for a couple days.

To the heart of this thread-
I got myself a 7.5 quart brew kettle with thermometer built in, a ss wort chiller, and an extra primary and secondary on top of the deluxe northern brewer brew kit. The wort chiller is unbelievable and gets me down from around 170 to 70 in like 8-10 mins. I have yet to really utilize the brew kettle size properly but now I can due to reading up through this site voraciously. The info in the above 10 points is simply awesome and gave me some great help. I will definitely try steeping in less and do full boils. I usually let the brew kettle rest over two gas burners ( fits just right) and it gives a vigorous boil, not a rolling boil.

I've been good to my yeast but need to further polish the malt understanding. Of course I have barely gotton into my first secondary for my first brew so I'm setting my bar high =)
It was dry yeast and the instruction says spread on top of wort.

 
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Old 05-17-2012, 07:54 AM   #36
scrawbag
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Dec 2011
ireland, ireland
Posts: 145
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i had to comment so i can find this easily on brew day
now lets party

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Old 02-24-2013, 11:26 AM   #37
mblanks2
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Feb 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HankyPanky View Post
Its hard for me to get a rolling boil with my electric flat stove top this is a good read tho.
Turn on your second largest burner and slide between the two as they cycle on and off or better yet, just get a turkey frier and 20# propane tank. The efficiency of the propane burner is worth every penny. $75 or less at Lowes or HD for the burner.

 
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:22 PM   #38
unionrdr
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Going back to the original thoughts,it's not globs of LME sinking to the bottom & caramelizing the rest of the wort. Thoat part burns. It's the LME dissolved in the water being boiled a second time for yet another hour that does it. It'd already been processed,& doesn't need to be processed again.
I always save LME for flame out & use half a 3lb bag of plain DME in the partial boil of about 3.5 gallons. Or in partial mash with the grains being 50% of the fermentables,I use that for hop additions & all the extract at flmae out. Works really well.
Late extract aditions make for lighter beers & no twang even in partial boils. The boil volume has little to do with that aspect of it. It's more like how much,when,& for how long. And fermentability of the mash depends on the temp. Lower end of temp range,more fermentabitilty. Higher end,less fermentabitility. And even though those extracts replacing the sugars were darker than the extra light malts used in common lagers,it's misleading to say they told people to replace the sugar with darker malts. That's wrong. It sounds like you've basically got it,but some of the definitions are off.
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:44 PM   #39
HopWolf
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Feb 2013
Crystal Lake, Illinois
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I've been looking for improvements in my brewing and this has answered many of my questions
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:58 PM   #40

Quote:
Originally Posted by unionrdr View Post
Going back to the original thoughts,it's not globs of LME sinking to the bottom & caramelizing the rest of the wort. Thoat part burns. It's the LME dissolved in the water being boiled a second time for yet another hour that does it. It'd already been processed,& doesn't need to be processed again.
I always save LME for flame out & use half a 3lb bag of plain DME in the partial boil of about 3.5 gallons. Or in partial mash with the grains being 50% of the fermentables,I use that for hop additions & all the extract at flmae out. Works really well.
Late extract aditions make for lighter beers & no twang even in partial boils. The boil volume has little to do with that aspect of it. It's more like how much,when,& for how long. And fermentability of the mash depends on the temp. Lower end of temp range,more fermentabitilty. Higher end,less fermentabitility. And even though those extracts replacing the sugars were darker than the extra light malts used in common lagers,it's misleading to say they told people to replace the sugar with darker malts. That's wrong. It sounds like you've basically got it,but some of the definitions are off.
Good advice if you're looking to brew a light-colored extract beer. Although if you're brewing something like a pilsner, I'd go even further and say to only use extra light DME for the entire brew. Using only DME with late extract additions, you can achieve a very light color, even if you're doing a partial boil.

That said I find that I prefer using LME. I think it is easier to work with, and if fresh, tastes better.

 
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