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Old 01-30-2009, 07:17 PM   #1
Jsta Porter
Oct 2007
Posts: 93
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts


Posted this a while back, but did not have a difinitive response. I made a Rodenbach Grand Cru clone over a year ago. What type of yeast would you reccomend using for bottleing, if any? Many thanks- and thanks for this new forum!!!!!!!!!!

I used the following recipe:

Rodenbach Grand Cru
Flanders Red Ale

Type: Extract
Date: 4/8/2008
Batch Size: 5.00 gal
Brewer: o
Boil Size: 2.43 gal Asst Brewer:
Boil Time: 60 min Equipment: Brew Pot (3 Gallon)
Taste Rating(out of 50): 35.0 Brewhouse Efficiency: -
Taste Notes:


Amount Item Type % or IBU
5.25 lb Light Dry Extract (8.0 SRM) Dry Extract 66.04 %
0.63 lb Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM) Grain 7.92 %
0.50 lb Caravienne Malt (22.0 SRM) Grain 6.29 %
0.25 lb Acid Malt (3.0 SRM) Grain 3.14 %
0.19 lb Chocolate Malt (350.0 SRM) Grain 2.39 %
0.50 oz Styrian Goldings [6.00 %] (60 min) Hops 5.6 IBU
0.50 oz Brewer's Gold [8.00 %] (45 min) Hops 6.8 IBU
0.50 oz Goldings, East Kent [5.00 %] (3 min) Hops 0.6 IBU
0.25 oz Oak Chips (Secondary 7.0 days) Misc
1.00 tsp Irish Moss (Boil 10.0 min) Misc
1.00 lb Corn Sugar (Dextrose) (0.0 SRM) Sugar 12.58 %
0.13 lb Milk Sugar (Lactose) (0.0 SRM) Sugar 1.64 %
1 Pkgs Belgian Lambic Blend (Wyeast Labs #3278) Yeast-Ale

Beer Profile

Est Original Gravity: 1.058 SG
Measured Original Gravity: 1.058 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.017 SG Measured Final Gravity: 0.000 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 5.34 % Actual Alcohol by Vol: 0.00 %
Bitterness: 13.0 IBU Calories: 0 cal/pint
Est Color: 13.4 SRM Color: Color

Mash Profile

Mash Name: None Total Grain Weight: 10.00 lb
Sparge Water: - Grain Temperature: -
Sparge Temperature: - TunTemperature: -
Adjust Temp for Equipment: FALSE Mash PH: -

Steep grains as desired (30-60 minutes)

Mash Notes: -
Carbonation and Storage

Carbonation Type: Dried Malt Extract Volumes of CO2: 2.4
Pressure/Weight: 5.3 oz Carbonation Used:
Keg/Bottling Temperature: 60.0 F Age for: 364.0 days
Storage Temperature: 0.0 F


1.25 Cup for the Carbonation

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Old 01-30-2009, 07:53 PM   #2
May 2007
San Diego, CA
Posts: 4,276
Liked 19 Times on 17 Posts

From what I've read, I've heard safale-04 is a good bottling cchoice. it is fairly neutral and does well with conditioning. You'll definitely want to add yeast before you bottle.

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Old 01-30-2009, 08:30 PM   #3
Brandon O
Brandon O's Avatar
Jun 2008
Posts: 1,179
Liked 41 Times on 11 Posts

how does it taste?

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Old 01-30-2009, 08:57 PM   #4
Jsta Porter
Oct 2007
Posts: 93
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts

Pretty close. It lacks some of the depth of the original, and maybe a little sweeter and less dry. I have not done a side by side, so it is off of memory.

Thanks for the assistance!!

Edited to say that it does not taste that similar at all. Really dry, and the sour is almost bitter up front. I think it needs to be blended.

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Old 02-02-2009, 09:06 PM   #5
Jsta Porter
Oct 2007
Posts: 93
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts

Hello all,

I contacted "the Mad Fermentationist", a homebrewer who has been playing alot with wild beers. His blog is here: The Mad Fermentationist

His response to the same question follows:

Brewing sour/wild beers at home is definitely a small niche in the overall small niche of homebrewers, but I think both are growing rapidly.

I started out not adding any bottling yeast four sour beers. After a year the Brettanomyces will still be active and will carbonate your beer... eventually. This is the way traditional Gueuze are made. I didn't enjoy having to wait 6 months for some of my beers to carbonate though.

These days I generally add some dried wine yeast. Wine yeast is generally more acid and alcohol tolerant than beer yeast, but I am sure that S04 would be fine in a beer like this.

Russian River and Lost Abbey both have house wine strains that they use, I just buy whatever strikes my mood at the brew shop (generally Champagne yeast). Most recently I have used 71B-1122 and EC-1118.

Another option is to add more Brett for bottle conditioning (something some breweries are starting to do), but I have yet to give this a try.

Even once it carbonates sour beers need some extra time to mellow in the bottle I have found, but less so when you add bottling yeast. I'd vote against using DME for carbonation, because it is hard to tell how much of the dextrins the wild yeast and bacteria will consume (could lead to overcarbonation).

Hope that helps, good luck getting the beer carbonated.

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