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Are there any updates on whether the recipe works better with both WY1056 and WY3763, or with 1056 alone?

Also is MD and secondary needed if going with 1056 alone?

Thanks for the great recipe! I'm going to try it in January.

1056 alone won't produce a sour beer. If you want to reproduce this beer you'll need to either pitch 1056, wait until FG is reached, then pitch 3763 and wait till it achieves the sourness you want -or- you can try pitching 3763 alone as it has an ale yeast in the mix. If doing the later it may take > 1yr to develop.
 
1056 alone won't produce a sour beer. If you want to reproduce this beer you'll need to either pitch 1056, wait until FG is reached, then pitch 3763 and wait till it achieves the sourness you want -or- you can try pitching 3763 alone as it has an ale yeast in the mix. If doing the later it may take > 1yr to develop.
Sorry, I meant 3763 alone (I'll edit that in my post). Thanks. I might try just pitching 3763 alone. If doing so, will I need to use any maltodextrine? And would there be any need for a secondary? Thanks!
 
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Sorry, I meant 3763 alone (I'll edit that in my post). Thanks. I might try just pitching 3763 alone. If doing so, will I need to use any maltodextrine? And would there be any need for a secondary? Thanks!

If your beer hasn't developed enough sour character or is thin in nature after aging at length you might try adding some maltodextrin to increase the sourness and add some body. Once added it will take an additional period of time to develop due to the slow nature of brett and pedio which will be active at that time.

A secondary is useful when making sour beers as you will want to transfer off the yeast cake and provide a container with relatively small head space to limit oxygen exposure. Even though brett consumes the autolysised yeast byproducts it's best to limit the amount of dead sacc that needs to be cleaned up. There are brewers who have reported successfully souring and aging the beer on the original yeast cake but that may or may not have desirable effects.

Sours in general take time and monthly taste/gravity and pH measurement cycles to track the beers progress. Documenting what you are measuring and tasting will help you track and communicate how the beer is progressing and when it's time to bottle.
 
@cactusgarrett (or anyone else), I input all your ingredients into a calculator, assuming 70% efficiency and a volume of 6 gallons, and using your SRM numbers. I came up with a total SRM of 26.4 rather than the 16 SRM that you indicated. Did you actually mean 26 rather than 16? Why such a difference?

I'm concerned because that is a significant difference in the color, and I would like to achieve the ruby red if possible.
 
@cactusgarrett (or anyone else), I input all your ingredients into a calculator, assuming 70% efficiency and a volume of 6 gallons, and using your SRM numbers. I came up with a total SRM of 26.4 rather than the 16 SRM that you indicated. Did you actually mean 26 rather than 16? Why such a difference?

I'm concerned because that is a significant difference in the color, and I would like to achieve the ruby red if possible.

Good that you bumped this tread I'm almost due to do my 1 year sample.
After 6 months it wasn't sour enough.

As pre your question; I scaled mine to match the same OG as the OP and the color in Beersmith was 30.5 ECB which is about 15.5 SRM and it is a redish color.
26.4 would indeed be more brownish.

What calculator are you using; maybe it is spitting out ECB numbers?

Edit: looking at my recipe again it looks like I left the Munich malt out, can't remember why 🤪
 
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Good that you bumped this tread I'm almost due to do my 1 year sample.
After 6 months it wasn't sour enough.

As pre your question; I scaled mine to match the same OG as the OP and the color in Beersmith was 30.5 ECB which is about 15.5 SRM and it is a redish color.
26.4 would indeed be more brownish.

What calculator are you using; maybe it is spitting out ECB numbers?

Edit: looking at my recipe again it looks like I left the Munich malt out, can't remember why 🤪
I used the SRM (Morey) calculations, the same ones used in Beersmith:

Beer Color: Understanding SRM, Lovibond and EBC

I use all my own calculations for almost everything (I enjoy math) - so I built my own beer recipe program. I double-checked the calculations and they do come to 26.4. Here are the detailed calculations (Note the only weight not exactly same - but very close - is Pilsner in order to make it all balance out - otherwise I would need to increase the volume a little):

GrainW (lb.)LovibondMCUSRM
Caramunich III
0.50​
56​
4.67​
4.29​
Special B
0.50​
180​
15.00​
9.56​
Wheat Malt
0.50​
2​
0.17​
0.44​
Aromatic
0.50​
26​
2.17​
2.54​
Munich II
3.00​
10​
5.00​
4.50​
Vienna
5.00​
3.5​
2.92​
3.11​
Pilsner
4.35​
2.00​
1.45​
1.92​
26.36
Where:
MCU = (weight of grain in lb) * (color of grain in degrees Lovibond)/(Volume in gallons = 6.0)
SRM = 1.4922 * (MCU ** 0.6859) [Morey Equation]
 
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I used the SRM (Morey) calculations, the same ones used in Beersmith:
I plugged the identical information into Beersmith and I get an SRM of 15.9! I will contact Brad Smith and see if he can explain the difference. I might be missing something subtle.
 
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I plugged the identical information into Beersmith and I get an SRM of 15.9! I will contact Brad Smith and see if he can explain the difference. I might be missing something subtle.
I did some more analysis and the difference lies in the approach, which wasn't clear from the description in the link.

In my approach, I used Morey's calculation for each separate fermentable and then totalled the individual SRM values.

In the approach used in BeerSmith, all the individual MCU's are first totalled, and THEN the Morey formula is used. The results in this approach are identicial with the results from BeerSmith.

Mystery solved!
 
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