Drain on Keggle

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Shoemaker

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OK so I got the top off of my keggle. Now I'm trying to figure out the specific parts I need to make my drain. Could someone tell me the specific parts they used to make one? Thanks!
 
If you're not going weldless, then get a 1/2" stainless steel coupling and have it welded into the keg. You want the coupling down low. Get a 1/2" stainless nipple for the outside, and put a 1/2" quarter turn ball valve onto the nipple. Rig up the inside to siphon out the wort and you're good to go...

Good Luck...
 
I'm looking for a weldless drain, something I can buy from home depot. Anyone else have suggestions?

Your not going to find anything from a local supplier

go into home depot and ask for a bulkhead fitting and they will look at you like your an idiot - I know this from experience
 
It's hard to find stainless pieces at hardware stores and anything but zinc plated washers (don't use) to fit a 1/2" nipple/ball valve are impossible to find around here.
 
If you're not going weldless, then get a 1/2" stainless steel coupling and have it welded into the keg. You want the coupling down low. Get a 1/2" stainless nipple for the outside, and put a 1/2" quarter turn ball valve onto the nipple. Rig up the inside to siphon out the wort and you're good to go...

Good Luck...


I'll go this way, thanks. My buddy has a welder I can use.
 
Welding stainless is a little trickier than regular welding, and as Scut Monkey mentioned requires a TIG welder. Unless you're familiar with doing it, I wouldn't try learning on a nice boil kettle, but that's just me.
 
The two things that really make the BargainFittings valve so good are the large barb opening and the o-ring groove on the locknuts.

The larger opening on the barbs prevent grains from getting stuck in the outflow and the o-ring groove seats the o-ring very nicely against the kettle.
 
Is it a TIG welder? With stainless MIG welding should be avoided.

I would find a certified welder to do this for you. You don't have to use a TIG welder but you better know what you are doing. It can get messy. The guy doing my keggles is a certified stick welder. He does wonders with an arc welder.

Remember these welds need to be water tight and as close to sanitary as possible.

In my case I don't care how pretty the outside weld is. I am wrapping my kegs in insulation. If you plan to shine it up, you may want a pretty weld.
 
Couple things to ponder on making a welded keggle. If you're going to be boiling your wort for an hour, do you really think that there's going to be a big difference between a "sanitary" weld and one that's not so much so? Also, why weld a coupling into the keggle and then have to screw in a nipple when you could just weld in a nipple? If you screw a nipple into the coupling, you have one moreplace to worry about leaking and cleaning and all that.

Just my ponderings........
 
Couple things to ponder on making a welded keggle. If you're going to be boiling your wort for an hour, do you really think that there's going to be a big difference between a "sanitary" weld and one that's not so much so? Also, why weld a coupling into the keggle and then have to screw in a nipple when you could just weld in a nipple? If you screw a nipple into the coupling, you have one moreplace to worry about leaking and cleaning and all that.

Just my ponderings........

You know, I was wondering the same thing. Why do people weld a coupling and a nipple when you can just weld the nipple? Is there any reason why this can't be done?
 
You know, I was wondering the same thing. Why do people weld a coupling and a nipple when you can just weld the nipple? Is there any reason why this can't be done?

No reason I can think of, if fact, that's what I did for my keggle. I never saw the need for an extra fitting, so I didn't use it.
 
I just simply went to fasenal company and picked up a 1/2 nptf collar, welded it into place and then added a stainless ball valve and bazooka screen,,,, works great.
 
If you are looking for stainless fitting or nipples you have to go to a pipe supplier or something like McMaster-Carr/MLCS or something like that. The only advatange to adding a coupling in stead of a nipple would be replacement/repairs. I only think this way becuase i am a pipe fitter that does service work. If you drop your keggle male threads will get damaged where female threads wont. Having a thread close to the keggle would be very hard to retap. where a coupling would be easy.

I would use a nipple that is an 0-3" or an 0-4".

Aslo I would recommend getting one that Type 304 or 304L. If getting from an industrial supplier.
 
What would be a good length for the nipple? I don't want it too long or short!

I'll measure mine tonight if I think about. All you need for length is to have a close nipple that will allow for welding on both the inside and outside of the keg without getting into the threads of the nipple. I'm gonna guess that 3" would be plenty long enough, thread engagement is only 1/2" for a 1/2" NPT fitting.
 
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