Chest Freezer to Keezer Conversion: MikeE's DIY build

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EasyE

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Below you will see my conversion of a chest freezer to a keezer. This project requires some inspired DIY skills that most can handle.

I converted a Frigidaire 7.2 q/ft chest freezer into a keezer. What is a keezer? Kegerater + Freezer = keezer.

The keezer can hold four corny kegs (pin lock, 5 gallon). I fit three on the floor and one on the hump. It will not fit two on the hump, but with one keg you will have room for other things.


I went to Lowes and special ordered a black Frigidaire 7.2 q/ft chest freezer, picked it up 3 weeks later, and removed the lid. I set the lid aside for later, saving screws. Used chest freezers are an option to save money, you can even paint them black. I wanted a clean, new looking freezer to start.

During that 3-week period I waited for the chest freezer, I researched and purchased 90% of the materials from my LHBS, web, and Home Depot. I included a parts list with price and retailer.

The four casters are 3 inches in size, two have a foot break. I ordered these from HarborFreights.com. To mount the casters firmly to the freezer, I needed more surface area on the bottom of the freezer, so I cut thin stainless steel pieces to place between the casters and the keezer frame. I found these pieces at Home Depot in the lumber section, called strap tight. I bought two 10-inch strips, drilled holes in them, and cut them down to length with a cheep hand grinder. I posted some pics on page 3.

Two casters were mounted with nuts and bolts, the other two were mounted with self drilling screws. The only time you should drill into the wall of the freezer is here, and it's barely drilling into into it. There are no cooling lines running less than an inch around the base of the freezer, so drilling the screws for the casters will work. Anywhere else, and you risk the possibility of rupturing one of the cooling lines. No more drilling.

The wood for the collar is walnut, from a reuse-center in Ann Arbor, Mi. I found two 10 foot pieces of walnut that were close in size. Later on a plainer was used and a sander to create a 1.2 x 8. Hard woods like walnut have killer grove patterns and a natural color worth the extra money. No stain, just three coats of a low gloss satin polyurethane. It was challenging to find other hard woods or even soft woods like Western Hem or Hem Fir at local lumber yards. I almost went with a Hem Fir. I was trying to find 2 x 8’s that I could cut down to size, but could not find the size without going with pine (way to soft). I live in southeast Michigan, and it was February.

The hardness of the walnut allowed me to go less then 1 x 8. Also, the lid of the chest freezer needs an inch to seal, so having a little extra width on the collar is a good idea. I also wanted the collar to be 8 inches high so I would have room for the keg with connections on the hump. Instead of placing the collar on the chest freezer edge, strips of walnut were cut and attached along the bottom edge to form a grove. This allowed the collar to sit on the freezer with no movement. Perfect fit allowed for no glue or nails. The weight of the walnut, and the grove keeps the collar firmly in place. I'm hoping this will not be an issue with condensation, due to warm air entering between collar and chest freezer. Time will tell.

The freezer's lid was then attached to the walnut collar. I marked with a pen in the hinge holes, drilled holes, then attached with screws. The original lid handle was removed and replaced with walnut. To do this required the lid to be taken apart by a few plastic screws which hold down a few layers of insulation. The old factory handle is fine, but I wanted to add my own touch.

Next, 7/8 in. holes were drilled for the beer faucets. A hole for the temperature controller was also made, using drill bits and wood chisels. Go slow here and sip good craft beers too. This will help to keep your mouth moist and mind focused. :mug:

The controller slides in the hole perfectly, which comes with two plastic clips to hold the controller into the collar. More about the temperate controller later.

To insulate the collar, I used 1.5 inch thick pink foam board from Home Depot. I cut this down with a sharp blade into four pieces to match the sides of the collar, each nudged lightly into place, no glue needed. Instead of leaving the pink foam exposed on the inside, black aluminum sheeting was used to cover the inside and the top edge.

The top edge and inside collar were covered with black aluminum to hide the pink insulation and provide a flat surface for the lid to seal against. I would have used foam glue to glue down the insulation if not for the black aluminum. The aluminum was easy to drill holes in for the faucet shanks.

Two manifolds were installed inside the keezer. I’m using two because I like having the options with having two different CO2 pressures, for beer, sodas, or crash carbonating homebrews. I made one gas line longer so I could wheel the keezer up to my workbench and bottle beers.

I next installed the faucets and shanks...quick and easy. The Perlick 525 stainless steel faucets were each purchased as a combo deal: 1 Perlick forward sealing faucets, a 4 inch shank, nipple screw, and beer line connecter. All parts that contact beer are stainless steel. I might have gone with the 3-inch shanks, but could not find them as part of a combo deal.

Next, the temperature controller should be wired up and installed in the collar. The diagram on the controller is not so straightforward for the electrically challenged. In short, the probe goes into port 1 and 2. To get power to the run the controller, I cut up an orange power cord and wired that to the controller. A jumpers used between two ports. Diagrams are aplenty on HomeBrewTalk. Then I slid the controller into collar and secured it with clips.

The probe wire exits the controller and runs down into a glass of water, located on the hump of the keezer . I submerged the probe in water to keep the temp. fluctuations low when I have to open the keezer lid. Check to make sure the probe on your controller is water proof first.

The orange power cord also runs out the back of the controller, then under the collar and out of sight. I lifted the collar up, and pressed the orange cord into the pink foam, hiding it and allowing the collar to sit back down flush with the top of the freezer. A small hole was made at the back wall of the collar to allow the power cord to exit the keezer.

The power cord is then spliced into the freezers power. The idea is to render the freezers temp controller useless, and override it with the Love TSX temp. controller. An electrician is recommended if you don’t feel comfortable with this phase of the project.

The CO2 system was installed next. I’m using a 20 lb tank, which is resting on a used stainless steel holder I picked up at my LHBS. That holder is attached to a piece of walnut that is attached to the back of the collar. I did not attach that piece of walnut to the pack of the keezer to avoid damage to the keezer’s cooling lines. When connecting your CO2, make sure you use teflon tape on all threaded connections to avoid a gas leak.

The Tap rite regulator is mounted using a piece of walnut and scrap shim. I made extra sure the regulators and tank lined up perfectly before securing them. To get the CO2 into the keezer, two holes were drilled through the walnut collar for the bulkheads. I purchased two bulkheads from my LHBS, complete with gas nipples on both ends. All gas lines are 5/16 in thick tubing I also got from my LHBS. All beverage lines are 3/16 inch.

The fan is key to keeping the keezer dry and temps cool and consistent.

To build it, I purchased a piece of 5 inch PVP tube from Home Depot. I cut it to length, then attached an aluminum piece of duct work which I found at Home Depot. This duct work is 5 inches round on one end and square on the other, which fits perfect for the square fan. I duct taped the fan to this. With the fan at the top, it sucks cool air up the tube, then blows it on the beverage lines and faucets. I cut holes at the bottom of the tube, around it's side to allow air to be drawn up the tube.

I'm running 8 feet of beer lines set at 12 PSI. Beer is cold with a proper head on every pour. Oh so nice.:rockin:

The fan is powered by splicing the fan to a 120V plug. That plug runs out of the back of the keezer down to the keezer power source. A female plug from the other end of the orange power cord is spliced into the keezers’ power, which the fan plug is plugged into. The fan is plugged into that, which runs 24/7 now. If I need to work, clean, or change kegs in the keezer, I just unplug the fans plug from the orange power cord outlet in the keezer.

Next I attached a drip tray, found one for less than 20.00. The tray is attached with tape to 3 inch aluminum shelving brackets from Home Depot. I used 3M heavy duty exterior tape. It claims to hold up to 5 lbs. It can, and it holds great. The drip trays come apart for easy cleaning. I'm working on a walnut trim to go around it, can't throw away walnut.

Best of luck as you embark on your keezer build journey.
Cheers!
 
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/attach...ent.php?attachmentid=25144&stc=1&d=1304043342

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Very clean!
What's the material used for the black "wrap" around the insides?
(presumably to cover insulation, and give a clean flat top for the lid seal...



edit - missed it on the first pass - Black Aluminum - very nice!
 
Very clean!
What's the material used for the black "wrap" around the insides?
(presumably to cover insulation, and give a clean flat top for the lid seal...


The material is black aluminum, picked it up from a local building and siding company. About $25 bucks. I like the secure fit I get when I close the lid, no gaps for cold air to leek out. I used nails to secure the aluminum to the walnut, then used a black marker to "hide" the nails.
 
Congrats! That is honestly the best looking color combo I've seen. I would like a breakdown list of the parts and prices if you wouldn't mind posting it.
 
Fridgidair 7.2 cu. Ft. chest freezer, black: ( Lowes)

Rigid Foam Board Insulation (HomeDept)

Masscool 120mm computer fan (Amazon.com)

Drip Tray (BarProducts.com)

4 Swivel Casters (2 with lock) (Harbor Freight Tools)

Love Temperature Controller (Dwyer Instruments Inc.)

Walnut Collar ( Recycle Ann Arbor)

4 Perlick 525ss Tap/Shank Combo (Ebay)

I Tap Rite CO2 Regulator-Duel Gage (Adven. in Homebrewing)

1 10 lb. CO2 Tank, filled (Adven. In Homebrewing)

4 way Manifold (Homebrewstuff.com)

2 way Manifold (Homebrewstuff.com)

4 Used Soda Kegs (Adventures in Homebrewing)

Beer/CO2 Lines (Advetures in Homebrewing)

8 quick connects (Adventures in Homebrewing)

Black Aluminum Siding
 
Right on. Thanks for the breakdown. I plan on building one this summer for my birthday present to myself and these threads really help out.

I know it adds up quickly but you have one awesome keezer to be very proud of.
 
Very Nice! Great innovation with the aluminum siding.

Replacing the stock lid handle with your own wooden one is a nice touch. The stock one sticks out and can interfere with the tap handles if we are unlucky.
 
"beautiful!! I'm working on mine this weekend... how did you attach the collar to the keezer body?"

I was going to attach the collar to the chest freezer, but I after more thinking, I decided not to. The weight of the collar keeps it secure. What keeps the collar on the chest freezer are the walnut strips I cut and secured to the bottom. The strips of walnut form a groove for the collar and chest freezer to meet.

Having the lid unattached was nice when I did the electrical work, I was able to just tuck the cords up under the groove and into the pink foam insulation.
 
One note of caution with the aluminum covering for the inside collar: the aluminum covering and top lid should be flush with each other on the lip of the collar.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=25237&stc=1&d=1304180367
Any aluminum that can be seen when the lid is closed will give off condensation. This is because the aluminum that is inside the keezer is about 38F, and the outside is much warmer. I keep this keezer in my garage were temps get warm, and I noticed a bit of condensation on the edge. In the futue, I would have made these two edges flush.

DSC_0001.jpg
 
Wow ... I'm not normally a sucker for dark woods, but that walnut looks really great ... I'll be returning to this thread as I finish mine.
 
Walnut is expensive, I was lucky and found these pieces at a reuse center. Some guy saves wood from old buildings and barns. I'm happy that I spent the extra money. Thanks for al the feedback.
 
Hey Easy, how did you make the molding for the sides of the collar?
 
Awesome build! Did you ever think of using a bigger freezer so you could divide the space for fermentation? I'm planning on doing something similar but I want to create a space for lagering too.
 
"Hey Easy, how did you make the molding for the sides of the collar?"


1. First I planed and cut each 10-foot board to exact size: 1.2 in. x 8 in. Oh walnut smells good when cut!

2. Second, I cut the wood to match the collar to the size of the chest freezer. Then I mitered each corner, dove tailed each join, and bam!

3. To avoid drilling holes in the freezer edge, I decided to cut strips of walnut and nail them to the outside bottom edge of the collar. This keeps the collar in place. The collar sits on the freezer, with the strips keeping it in place.

4. I repeated this for the top of the collar, cutting an L shape in each strip, with the longer part of the L covering the top of the collar edge. I nailed this strip to the collar, nailed the aluminum to it. I used a table saw to cut these to size, adjusting the blade height to create the different strips for the top, bottom, and the corner of the collar.

I got so wrapped up in the collar build that I forgot to take pictures of the process.
 
The casters allow me to move the keezer so I can rack from fermenter to keg, avoid lifting full corny keg over collar. A bit pricey, but solid wheels for your keezer is a must, cuz I plan to put some miles on them between my fermenter and my keezer spot.

That's a pint of Belgium training wheels. We tend to tinker during the winter here in Michigan....
 
Awesome build! Did you ever think of using a bigger freezer so you could divide the space for fermentation? I'm planning on doing something similar but I want to create a space for lagering too.

I'm not sure if I would go too much bigger, but a place to crash cool a carboy is great. I just wait till I got an empty keg, then throw the carboy in. I have really enjoyed having one extra long CO2 line so I can rig up a bottling gun and bottle from the keg.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=25828&stc=1&d=1305075321

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Beautiful build! I was so inspired by this thread and build that I am now building mine off this design. I went with a 9 cu. ft. freezer from Lowes instead of the 7.2 because it was only $264. It arrives tomorrow and I am psyched. I am going to use 2x6" oak board instead of walnut that I also picked up at Lowes. And, instead of the perlick faucets (which are top shelf but about $12/ea more than the ones I picked up at the same site. I am also only doing three instead of four because I can never see myself serving four brews at one time. I never throw parties anymore so it will only be for personal consumption. I hadn't realized how truly expensive the whole build was going to be however because I saw no prices listed here. I am into it for at Least $700 so far and I still need some odds and ends before my parts list is complete. I can't wait to start building it tomorrow! Thanks again for the great pics and post build advice.
 
[snip] I hadn't realized how truly expensive the whole build was going to be however because I saw no prices listed here. I am into it for at Least $700 so far and I still need some odds and ends before my parts list is complete. [snip]

FWIW, I was originally looking to purchase a standard dual-tap kegerator, and I did a lot of research because I didn't want to buy a cheap one and have it crap out on me ... I learned that it was going to be close to $1,000 ... then I was referred to this site by a forum user on the MM site, and realized that for the same money (or less) I could build one that would fit into my decor (i.e., MUCH higher SWMBO rating) and provide additional value as well (room for bottles, chilled glasses, etc.)!

I also thought I was going to be able to get a third tap out of the deal, but alas I did not do my homework because I cannot fit a third sixth on the floor (good move on your part going with a slightly larger unit) ... but that could be a blessing in disguise, because I must admit being worried about losing some beer to spoilage if SWMBO and I didn't drink it fast enough, but no worries now.

One good recommendation for saving a few bucks is to build your own temperature controller, referring to the eBay controller thread. I built mine for less than $45, including an $11 heavy duty power cord and left over wire, grommets, etc.

Have fun on your build, and good luck!
 
Beautiful build! I was so inspired by this thread and build that I am now building mine off this design. I went with a 9 cu. ft. freezer from Lowes instead of the 7.2 because it was only $264. It arrives tomorrow and I am psyched. I am going to use 2x6" oak board instead of walnut that I also picked up at Lowes. And, instead of the perlick faucets (which are top shelf but about $12/ea more than the ones I picked up at the same site. I am also only doing three instead of four because I can never see myself serving four brews at one time. I never throw parties anymore so it will only be for personal consumption. I hadn't realized how truly expensive the whole build was going to be however because I saw no prices listed here. I am into it for at Least $700 so far and I still need some odds and ends before my parts list is complete. I can't wait to start building it tomorrow! Thanks again for the great pics and post build advice.

I hope your weekend build was successful. Looks like your off to a good start having all your gear ahead of the build. It took me a good while to build/collect/research. Go slow, and let me know if I can answer any questions to help you in with your build. I too was inspired by all the great keezers on this site.

When I posted my build, I tried to keep my directions simple, yet complete enough for people like me who were new to DIY builds. Building an expensive toy like this can often be intimidating. I'm happy to see I was able to reciprocate that same inspiration for others.

After I totaled up my build I had the same reaction....Holy Cow Batman, this is adding up to an expensive build. Sounds like you have a good plan to save some extra cash here and there. Good call on the perlicks. In hindsight I may have done what you did and get the next model size up, just to give some extra room with removing kegs and store bottled beer.

Please post pics of your keezer here when you finish, I want to see how great that oak looks. Good luck with your build and keep us all posted!
 
FWIW, I was originally looking to purchase a standard dual-tap kegerator, and I did a lot of research because I didn't want to buy a cheap one and have it crap out on me ... I learned that it was going to be close to $1,000 ... then I was referred to this site by a forum user on the MM site, and realized that for the same money (or less) I could build one that would fit into my decor (i.e., MUCH higher SWMBO rating) and provide additional value as well (room for bottles, chilled glasses, etc.)!

I also thought I was going to be able to get a third tap out of the deal, but alas I did not do my homework because I cannot fit a third sixth on the floor (good move on your part going with a slightly larger unit) ... but that could be a blessing in disguise, because I must admit being worried about losing some beer to spoilage if SWMBO and I didn't drink it fast enough, but no worries now.

One good recommendation for saving a few bucks is to build your own temperature controller, referring to the eBay controller thread. I built mine for less than $45, including an $11 heavy duty power cord and left over wire, grommets, etc.

Have fun on your build, and good luck!

I agree, I ended up buying the same Love controller that the author of this thread did because it rocks that there is a digital display and controls that are visible and integrated into the collar. I bought mine on Amazon for $66 and still had to get a temperature probe ($11). So those two plus shipping and handling and it cost me $91.05 all said and done. I went with Amazon because I am a PRIME member and get free second day shipping on qualified purchases. Of course, there were No Love controllers available for PRIME purchase so I screwed myself there.

I really do love (pun intended) this controller, but in retrospect, I might go with a cheaper one. For $40 cheaper, I could have gotten this complete unit on Amazon: Freezer Temperature Controller

The $91 I spent on mine hurts to even think about. I need a beer...
 
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I hope your weekend build was successful. Looks like your off to a good start having all your gear ahead of the build. It took me a good while to build/collect/research. Go slow, and let me know if I can answer any questions to help you in with your build. I too was inspired by all the great keezers on this site.

When I posted my build, I tried to keep my directions simple, yet complete enough for people like me who were new to DIY builds. Building an expensive toy like this can often be intimidating. I'm happy to see I was able to reciprocate that same inspiration for others.

After I totaled up my build I had the same reaction....Holy Cow Batman, this is adding up to an expensive build. Sounds like you have a good plan to save some extra cash here and there. Good call on the perlicks. In hindsight I may have done what you did and get the next model size up, just to give some extra room with removing kegs and store bottled beer.

Please post pics of your keezer here when you finish, I want to see how great that oak looks. Good luck with your build and keep us all posted!

EasyE, I actually do have some questions. I am no cabinet maker by any means.

1. I am wondering how you got the collar structurally sound. Is there small 1"x1" blocks in the corners to sure it up and keep it from racking?

2. Is the outer walnut the only wood on the collar? Or should I ask, is there wood directly behind the inside aluminum? It does not appear from the pic on page 3 of this thread that there is any wood between the aluminum and Styrofoam.


Thank you in advance for any answers and it is Very intimidating to get started. I spent several hours this past Saturday just sanding the unfinished oak I purchased.
 
EasyE, I actually do have some questions. I am no cabinet maker by any means.

1. I am wondering how you got the collar structurally sound. Is there small 1"x1" blocks in the corners to sure it up and keep it from racking?




I was going to put aluminum corner brackets on the inside of each corner on the collar, but found each corner sound as they were dovetailed together. You can find the brackets at your home depot, they fit snug in each corner and can be mounted with screws. These brackets then get covered up with the foam insulation. If you use blocks, then just cut the foam out to make room for them.




2. Is the outer walnut the only wood on the collar? Or should I ask, is there wood directly behind the inside aluminum? It does not appear from the pic on page 3 of this thread that there is any wood between the aluminum and Styrofoam.


In post #23, you will see the pink foam insulation between the walnut collar and the black aluminum. There is no wood between the aluminum and styrofoam. Yes, the walnut is the only wood on the collar.

I'm happy to help. Once you get the collar built and secured, it gets really fun! Take your time and sip cold beer. Cheers! :mug:


Thank you in advance for any answers and it is Very intimidating to get started. I spent several hours this past Saturday just sanding the unfinished oak I purchased.
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I agree, I ended up buying the same Love controller that the author of this thread did because it rocks that there is a digital display and controls that are visible and integrated into the collar. I bought mine on Amazon for $66 and still had to get a temperature probe ($11). So those two plus shipping and handling and it cost me $91.05 all said and done. I went with Amazon because I am a PRIME member and get free second day shipping on qualified purchases. Of course, there were No Love controllers available for PRIME purchase so I screwed myself there.

I really do love (pun intended) this controller, but in retrospect, I might go with a cheaper one. For $40 cheaper, I could have gotten this complete unit on Amazon: Freezer Temperature Controller

The $91 I spent on mine hurts to even think about. I need a beer...

I feel your pain! I ended up getting the Love TSS2 from Dwyer and didn't realize it didn't come with a probe. After ordering the probe separately and paying 2x shipping I ended up with a $94 total. On the bright side it really is quite a nice controller.
 
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I agree, I ended up buying the same Love controller that the author of this thread did because it rocks that there is a digital display and controls that are visible and integrated into the collar. I bought mine on Amazon for $66 and still had to get a temperature probe ($11). So those two plus shipping and handling and it cost me $91.05 all said and done. I went with Amazon because I am a PRIME member and get free second day shipping on qualified purchases. Of course, there were No Love controllers available for PRIME purchase so I screwed myself there.

I really do love (pun intended) this controller, but in retrospect, I might go with a cheaper one. For $40 cheaper, I could have gotten this complete unit on Amazon: Freezer Temperature Controller

The $91 I spent on mine hurts to even think about. I need a beer...

That just ain't right to sell a temp. controller with out the probe. It's like buying a bottle of beer, then asked to pay extra for the cap. I got my controller direct from Dywer, with the probe and all for about $65. Just know that the controller will look amazing in the collar.;)
 
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That just ain't right to sell a temp. controller with out the probe. It's like buying a bottle of beer, then asked to pay extra for the cap. I got my controller direct from Dywer, with the probe and all for about $65. Just know that the controller will look amazing in the collar.;)

The funny thing is I wanted to make sure the probe was water tight so I could keep it in a glass of water as you stated in your build description but the for the probes description on Amazon (and anywhere else I saw it including the Davis website) was exactly the same as the Love controller itself. So, it did not have any information specific to the probe including seal type, length of cord, or plug type, or cabling used in it. Very frustrating and definitely ain't right to have to pay an extra $11 for it. It is a great controller though and I am satisfied with the overall purchase as it will look great in the collar like yours does EasyE.
 
Well, mine is finally wired and complete. Three taps, three kegs going. Thanks EasyE for this thread and great pics to help along the way. This build took me approximately 25hrs of labor. Be aware that this is an expensive build when using all new parts and equipment.
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Right now I have a Jamil's Evil Twin on tap with an Sunset Wheat clone force carb'ing as I write this post. I also have an Extra Pale Ale, a Centennial Blonde, and something that I am calling 'Death by Porter' fermenting. Can't wait to get them in the keezer...

All hail the mighty keezer!
 
All hail the mighty keezer! [/QUOTE]

That is one fine keezer. Nice work. The wood turned out great, taps look ready to serve you for years to come. I really like the cooper where you have it. That tap handle is wicked....did you make it? I had to get a tap lock for the handle on mine as I sometimes would knock it while loading and unloading a keg.

I hear you about the cost, it does add up fast. However, I still can not find a 3-4 tap unit for the same cost. Personalizing the final stages of the brewing process adds a completeness to the brewing process. That keezer will make a great addition to any brew cave. Oh how keezer can do so many cool things. I would love to see some pics of the inside, see the guts of the keezer. Can you post one or two. Again, nice build. The grain in that wood is so nice, how did you attach the collar to the base of the keezer, or did you do something similar to mine?
 
Here are some more pics that explain some of the ways I built the collar, how I attached it, and the electronics and equipment I used in it.

1. It would have been nice to dovetail the collar main boards together, but I lack the stellar workshop Mike E must have. Instead, I had to hack mine together by cutting the main pieces on 45 degree angles and then adding the further support of these angle brackets that I used both Gorialla Glue and short wood screws on.
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2.
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3.
4056-collar-bracket-mounting-holes.png


4. The wood on the back side of the front of the keezer collar continues down 0.5" into the channel that the chest freezers baskets would sit in. This holds the front of the collar in place, the mounting brackets on the back of the collar are the other anchor points.

Notice the fan's transformer is shown here as well. I wired it directly into the temp controller at position 7 and 10 respectively.

NOTE: By doing this, the fan is on 100% of the time when the keezer is plugged into the wall. I thought at the positions I chose (7 & 10), that I would be effectively be switching on the fan ONLY when the compressor is switched on (by the temp controller). This did not occur and now it runs constantly. At the low voltage I chose, it should not matter or effect my electric bill adversely. I do not know how the old cell phone charger / transformer will do in 35 degree temps however. Only time will tell...

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5. I used this old charger from a pay as you go cell phone I had years ago. The fan was rated at 12v @ 0.16a but I altered this transformer that produces 4.2v @ 0.55a. It spins the fan much slower than it would in a computer, but will use less electric and I had no need to circulate air from the bottom of the keezer to the top at high speed.
4059-old-cell-phone-charger-transformer.png


The old cell phone charger had fold out plug spades on it used to plug the charger into the wall, so I removed them and soldered a red/black wire to the positive/negative leads by opening the case. Once I soldered the wires into place, I used 'Goop' which is a fast drying diehard silicone adhesive, to close up the holes the spade plugs used to fold out of. I did this to try and prevent any moisture from entering the (transformer) unit.

6. If no one recognizes what I used for the fan housing, it is an extension for a gutter that I bought from the Ace Hardware right next door to my house. I also drilled 1.5" holes all around the bottom of the gutter extender for the air intake.
4060-fan-unit-place.png


7. I used this 9 blade PC fan I bought on Amazon with my PRIME account. Gotta love PRIME (free 2 day shipping).
4063-9-blade-120mm-pc-fan.png


8. I know there were NO wiring diagrams specific to the TS2-010 temp. controller I used in my build so I thought I would provide one. This is a wiring diagram that was taken from the TS 2008+ diagram that I found somewhere on HBT. I simply put TS2-010 on it so those who have a TS2-010 will know that it is the correct diagram for their controller.
4064-love-ts2-010-wiring-diagram.png


9. This was a piece of orange extension cord I had lying around. It goes from the keezer's temp controller around the inside of the collar embedded between the two 1/2" foam boards, and out the back of the collar through a hole I drilled. It then goes down and splices into the wire coming out of the freezer.
4067-wire-going-temp-controller-down-chest-freezers-wiring.jpg


10. And... last but not least, my Magic Hat #9 tap handle. I bought this on E-bay several years ago hoping I would have somewhere to use it someday. In retrospect, I am very glad I ordered it because I really think it makes the keezer.
4066-my-magic-hat-9-tap-handle-i-purchased-amazon-few-years-ago-hoping-i-would-have-somewhere-use-someday.jpg
 
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