How do I minimize bottle sediment?

I've been brewing for over a year and I'm tired of the yeast sediment in the bottles!
It has a lot of disadvantages

• I'm pretty much the only guy that can pour them, so its a problem in social events
• some friends (not me!) prefer drinking out of the bottle, and that can't be done with home brew (I know it impairs the perception of the beer, but I enjoy seeing friends enjoy my beer - and I'm NOT going to educate them)
• the bottles can't be transported and then immediately drank
• In a really fizzy beer with a big sediment layer, the bubbles will form on the yeast when opening the bottles and make the beer cloudy.

I always pour beer into a glass, but this yeast sediment is troublesome when it comes to events.

what methods are there to minimize this?
I thought of two:
1. kegging and using a beer gun - probably good, but this equipment is not available in my country.
2. I though maybe cold crashing the primary for two days, and then cold crashing the secondary for another two days.

SO... How do I minimize bottle sediment?

You've named the only ways really to get rid of sediment. Instead of coldcrashing two days in two different fermenters, just cold crash the primary after 3 weeks of fermenting, then carefully rack into the bottling bucket. I tend to go about 3 weeks or more from brew-day to bottling in primary only, and I get a very thin layer of sediment in my bottles.

Kegging and using a beergun to bottle is really a waste of time. Why go from keg to bottle when you could be going from keg to glass anyways?

Where are you? Update your location so we can get to know you better.

Time! I had a blonde ale that i left in the primary for 2 1/2 weeks, secondary for 1 1/2 and by also using gelatin in the secondary i got a really thin layer of yeast on the bottom.

Well, without kegging, you can minimize the sediment as the others mentioned. But because it's yeast that carbs the beer, if you are bottle conditioning, you will always have some yeast sediment.

Another thing that will help, though, is if you use an extremely flocculant yeast, so at least the yeast sediment on the bottom will be lessened, and then tightly packed on the bottom and harder to stir up.

I've only bottled. My experience is time and or cooling. I usually leave primary for 10-14 days and secondary another 10-14 days (total of 20 days to a month before bottling). The longer i wait, the clearer the beer in the bottle. Also tried crash cooling for atleast 4-5 days which led to a clearer beer. Mylast batch of a pale ale sat about a full month before i bottled and spent the last 5 or 6 days in the fridge at around 40*...my clearest beer to date. It's still carbonating but there's nearly no sediment, and no worries about not carbonating, i see bubbles!

I suggest a filter, then pitch priminig sugar & some chapagne yeast. I did that with a blonde ale & it worked great. You can always get a tap a draft keg system too

If you can get kegging equipment that would be the best way. I only bottle when I'm taking my brew with me. Using the BMBF you can fill the bottles quickly. The BMBF is quick and easy to build.

FishinDave07 said:

Time! I had a blonde ale that i left in the primary for 2 1/2 weeks, secondary for 1 1/2 and by also using gelatin in the secondary i got a really thin layer of yeast on the bottom.

Click to expand...

I do give long times in primary and secondary.
How do I use gelatin?
I though it is used in the kettle as a finning agent...

monty73741 said:

I suggest a filter, then pitch priminig sugar & some chapagne yeast. I did that with a blonde ale & it worked great. You can always get a tap a draft keg system too

Click to expand...

I don't think I'll filter, thats too much of a mess. As I said I can't get a draft system since I'm in Israel and no one supplies that. (there aren't any Cornelius kegs for soda, either)

monty73741 said:

I suggest a filter, then pitch priminig sugar & some chapagne yeast. I did that with a blonde ale & it worked great. You can always get a tap a draft keg system too

Click to expand...

How does taht work? priming sugar + yeast = yeast sediment and CO2.

not a lot of sediment...but some. its kinda unavoidable.

Do a secondary and don't get greedy by trying to get the last drop into the bottling bucket...

Fining agents are post-ferment clarifiers. Gelatin is mixed with warm water and stirred into the beer a few days before bottling.