Bottle Cappers

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OregonBrewer

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Recently, i capped a batch using the capper that was supplied to me in my starter kit. It is just like this one:

EMILY CAPPER @ Williams Brewing

Generally, i Keg the beers. But this batch was my buddies and he wanted them bottled. Could it be possible that the capper did not seal the caps? None of the bottles are leaking when you turn them upside down.

Also, does anyone have any suggestions on a different capper? I look forward to your responses.

Thanks Jon
 
Yeah, all of the beers minus one are completely flat.

The only other possibility would be that we did not use enough priming sugar in the bottling bucket. I have bottled one other batch using the same volume of priming sugar and the same capper and it came out perfect. Didn't have one beer that was flat from that batch.

Thanks for the response!
 
Yeah, the bottles are designed to be re-capped (not twist tops). The bottles have been carbonating for about 7 weeks now. They have been stored in a dark closet at room temp, approx. 65 degrees.

I am thinking the capper is not capping them properly. Should this capper leave some sort of mark, or indent in the top? I noticed that none of these bottles show an indent. On my first bottled batch most of the caps showed an indent.
 
First thing I'd do is rouse the yeast by turning the bottles over then rolling them in your hands. Then move them to a warmer spot somewhere in the 70's, and check back in a couple of weeks.

My capper does not always leave indents.

Also what kind of beer is it?
 
First thing I'd do is rouse the yeast by turning the bottles over then rolling them in your hands. Then move them to a warmer spot somewhere in the 70's, and check back in a couple of weeks.

My capper does not always leave indents.

Also what kind of beer is it?

It is an Amber, we used Wyeast 1056. So, you think that by rolling the bottles, moving to a higher temp environment that the beer still has a chance?

That is great news! Thanks for the reply. Will try it and get back with some results.
 
Never had a flat beer with my Emily Capper yet. I soak my caps in Starsan solution before use, and think that them being wet probably helps the seal.

+1 on rouse the yeasties, and get them to a 70degree area for a couple weeks.
 
It is an Amber, we used Wyeast 1056. So, you think that by rolling the bottles, moving to a higher temp environment that the beer still has a chance?

That is great news! Thanks for the reply. Will try it and get back with some results.


I actually had the same issue with a batch of Blonde a few weeks ago. I tend to carb slightly lower then Style, but this was pretty much flat, got a small "psst" whan I opened the cap, and had a little bit of head but was completely flat. I had been storing them in the laundry room which at the time was staying about 65ish degrees.

I grabbed each by the neck and gently rolled each to disturb the yeast. I moved them to the garage which at the time was staying about 72-75 and that batch is now well carbed. I've used the same process in the past with great results.

It will not fix a lack of priming sugar issue, but sometimes the yeast is just a bit too cold to get a good carbonation.

Other then that it is just patience. Every so often I get a batch that just takes a few extra weeks to get a good carb.
 
I went back to check the bottle date, it was 5-3-2009. It is now 7-15-2009, Going on 12weeks in the bottle. I am not planning on dumping them. However, i am considering carefully transferring them to an empty keg and applying co2 to get them carbed. The beer tastes fine except that it is flat.

Does Wyeast liquid yeast take longer to carb than other powdered yeast? If yes, then what would be the average time of carbonation while using a liquid yeast?

Does anyone have any similar experience with Wyeast that they could share?

Thanks to all that have provided feedback thus far, it is very much appreciated.
 
I have the same capper from the same vendor and have never had a problem, and I bottle condition all my beer. None of my caps have an indent when I use it. However, like Arkador, I keep my caps soaking in a sanitizing solution right up until the cap goes on each bottle, so the extra liquid on the cap might help it seal better than a dry cap.
 
If you think there's a slow leak, I'd turn one of the bottles upside down. If the cap leaks, then you should see some liquid the next day.

+1 again on rousing the yeast and giving it a warmer place to sleep.
 
If you think there's a slow leak, I'd turn one of the bottles upside down. If the cap leaks, then you should see some liquid the next day.

+1 again on rousing the yeast and giving it a warmer place to sleep.

Ok, will do. I have since moved all of the bottles into the garage, it stay's between 70 and 75 degrees. I rolled the bottles as previously suggested and they have been in this location since the 1st of July, approximately two weeks ago.

I will flip one of the bottles and find out if there is a leak. I may have been spoiled by the first batch i bottled. I used a pre-hopped mated extract Porter by Muntons, that beer was ready to drink three weeks after i bottled it.

The only remaining question i would have is does the type of yeast play a role in how long the beer takes to carbonate? The two beers i initially used the Wyeast liquid yeast in took longer to carbonate than my original batch. This will take additional research, i will most likely need to contact the company to obtain this answer. Thanks guys!:mug:
 
I doubt it's a problem with the yeast type - if it fermented the beer, then it should work for carbonation. I've bottled several batches that used Wyeast liquid strains with no issues. Now if you cold crashed and/or did a very long secondary, then it is possible that enough yeast dropped out of suspension that there wasn't enough for proper carbonation. Even so there's usually enough left to do the job, but if it is a yeast problem it's more likely a matter of amount rather than type of yeast.
 
I have the same capper, and the magnet in the top will leave a little indent on the top of the cap if you don't use even pressure when capping. (twist it or bring one wing down harder or sooner than the other)
I have never had any leakers or un-carbed bottles as a result of the dented caps.
 
This may be a stupid question, but what if you've let your beer sit in the secondary for quite some time, and then strain the hell out of your fermented beer before bottling? Is it possible that there isn't enough yeast left in suspension for the bottled beer to carbonate?

I'm guessing no, because adding priming sugar allows the yeast--no matter how few are left in suspension--to multiply again, but it's always been a question at the back of my mind.
 
This may be a stupid question, but what if you've let your beer sit in the secondary for quite some time, and then strain the hell out of your fermented beer before bottling? Is it possible that there isn't enough yeast left in suspension for the bottled beer to carbonate?

I'm guessing no, because adding priming sugar allows the yeast--no matter how few are left in suspension--to multiply again, but it's always been a question at the back of my mind.

Just straining you will be ok, it just may take a couple weeks longer to carb, but that would be caused more from the yeast settling out with the extended secondary. The biggest issue you have happen by "straining" will be seriously oxygenating the beer. Now, if you ran it through a filter then you may strip out all of the yeast.
 
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