Finding a 10/3 240v 30a gfci cord.....

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Loptr

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I have spent the last week surfing the web learning more than I care to about gfci cords in my quest to find a reasonable priced one.

EBay appears to be out and I am reluctant to pay $150+ for one.

Any help on where I can find and buy one would be wonderful.

I blame KAL but that is another thread......:D

Loptr
 
The Ebay store that I purchased mine from was friesen electric. While I was considering, they sold out and were re posted a couple times. It might be worth e-mailing them to see if they'll be listing any more. they're a sreamin' deal at about $75 shipped.
 
I have one that is available if anyone is interested. It is the same one that Friesen Electric was selling on eBay. I bought it for my build but I am moving and no longer need the GFCI power cable as I will have a GFCI breaker that I will be using. I paid $75 for it plus I had to pay to get it shipped here to Hawaii. If anyone is interested, PM me and I will sell it for what I paid plus shipping (cheapest method which will probably be Priority Mail Flat Rate).

Chris
 
I'm in the same boat. I emailed Friesen and they said that they have no stock or ETA. Not exactly the friendliest people ever. Maybe they got overwhelmed and sick of homebrewers buying these cables?

I think I'm going to go with the HD spa panel route. I'll either use the panel as my control panel (if I can cram everything in there) or pull the GFCI breaker out and put it in another enclosure. Ends up being about the same cost after buying a power supply cord. Less, if I don't end up needing another enclosure.
 
If someone finds another source please post it because I'll need to order one in the coming months. Cheers!
 
at these prices one might as well bite the bullet and install a GFI breaker. I just added a 60 amp GFI breaker to my box. the breaker was $99 online. I needed to make space, so i also had to buy 2 double switch breakers so that i could consolidate some space. those ran me an additional $12 each.

But I also brew about 10 feet away from my breaker box so the wiring from there is cheap and easy.
 
at these prices one might as well bite the bullet and install a GFI breaker. I just added a 60 amp GFI breaker to my box. the breaker was $99 online. I needed to make space, so i also had to buy 2 double switch breakers so that i could consolidate some space. those ran me an additional $12 each.

But I also brew about 10 feet away from my breaker box so the wiring from there is cheap and easy.

I think most folks are trying to make use of an existing 3-hole dryer outlet. You can drop A GFCI breaker in your panel to drive the wiring that runs to that receptacle, but this leaves you with no ground wire where you plug in. You just get GFCI protected hots and neutral.

I think the GFCI cords that these guys are talking about take 3-wire in from a dryer outlet and then pass on 4-wires on further. Basically, splitting the neutral into one line that is allowed to carry current and another line that is not allowed to carry current and can be used as a ground connection in the panel.

to the OP: if you can't find the cable, you can always build one by using a spa panel that basically sits in-line on a power cable. A GFCI spa panel can be found for like $50. Attach a short 3-wire cable and 3-prong plug to it to plug into the dryer outlet and then have another 4-wire cable coming out of it that feeds on to your brewery.

Depending on how long you wanted the overall cable to be, this will cost you around $75.
 
fluxgame said:
The popular cable (the one Kal references), has a NEMA 14-30 (4-prong) plug on it.

Ah... that makes it even less useful to the average guy. Most people's dryer outlets are still NEMA 10.
 
Lowe's has 10/3 for like $1.80, I think.


This place has 10/3 for $1.10:
http://www.stayonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=15113

and 10/4 for $1.60:
http://www.stayonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=18361

You'll have to pay shipping unless you live in the Raleigh NC area, but it's still probably a better deal than lowe's or HD.

Walker

Just double checking. These are ment to be used as the cord from the kettle to the control panel and the panel to the power source correct?

Rock Chalk

Chris
 
Dirty said:
Walker

Just double checking. These are ment to be used as the cord from the kettle to the control panel and the panel to the power source correct?

Rock Chalk

Chris

I can't answer that question because I don't know what kind of system you are talking about.

Those are simply power cords capable of 300V and 30A with either three wires inside or four wires inside.

They are to be used "where appropriate" .
 
oops, i DIDN"T do that.

however, for my cabinet saw and planer, I have a 'downstream' 220 breaker box.
Put a gfci breaker in one, and derez yoo iz.
 
Now I am using the xerox cable and will continue to use it, but a breaker will be provide better code compliance. The cable has a 10 mmicro or mili sec response(drinking, can't remeber which sub sec prefix), NEC is 5 and below. So the cable does not conform to US Nec. Like I said, I will still use mine and take that chance, but just a FYI.
 
I'm not running an electric setup, but how about something like a PTAC (a/c unit) power cord. I'm pretty sure they have built in GFCI protection for condensation leaks. Something like this: A/C PTAC power cord
There's no way there's a 30A GFI built into that $33 power cord that would meet the 5mA NEC requirements or even 10mA equipment protection requirements.

Kal
 
It's got something extremely similar apparently.

I'm trying to do some google-digging, but it has something on it that is being called an "LCDI"; Leakage Current Detection Interrupter.

It's the same sort of "GFCI" you see built into hair dryers.

No idea what the specs are on it.
 
It's not much info, but in this document I found this:

ALCI (Appliance Leakage Current
Interrupter) — A component device on
electrical appliances, ALCIs are similar to
GFCIs, as they are designed to interrupt the
circuit when a ground fault current exceeds
6 mA. An ALCI is not intended to replace the
use of a GFCI device, where GFCI protection
is required in accordance with the NEC.
 
I think most folks are trying to make use of an existing 3-hole dryer outlet. You can drop A GFCI breaker in your panel to drive the wiring that runs to that receptacle, but this leaves you with no ground wire where you plug in. You just get GFCI protected hots and neutral.

I think the GFCI cords that these guys are talking about take 3-wire in from a dryer outlet and then pass on 4-wires on further. ....

Depending on how long you wanted the overall cable to be, this will cost you around $75.

I need to do this but go from the dryer outlet (3wire), to a gfi inline, then out to my unit. Basically, I am looking for a gfi inline that has 3 terminals on both sides so I can put both my in/out wires to it without splicing things in. I am having a heck of a time finding an inline that doesn't have molded plugs on it. If anybody has any item numbers of the spa breaker solution, please let me know so I can use that if that is the final/easiest answer.
 
Wow $143 is more than I was expecting.
Is there a cheaper alternative? I dont want to use a spa panel because it's another clunky box and I'm brewing in an apartment.
Decisions, decisions :confused:
 
Wow $143 is more than I was expecting.
Is there a cheaper alternative? I dont want to use a spa panel because it's another clunky box and I'm brewing in an apartment.
Decisions, decisions :confused:

not that i condone this but at those price points, getting the spa panel and laying it on the ground is an option. make your own cordset and lay it on the ground, coil it up and store it when not brewing.
 
I use a Harbor Freight 25 FT 10/3 exrtention cord to get from my dryer to my brew area.Works great and was cheap.A spa panel isn't exactly big and would be easy to store.You could set the spa panel up with female receptacles and make it even easier for storage
 
not that i condone this but at those price points, getting the spa panel and laying it on the ground is an option. make your own cordset and lay it on the ground, coil it up and store it when not brewing.

Could always swap the breaker in your panel.

I live in a rental apartment and the owner is cheap, so that's not an option. :(



Ill be brewing in the kitchen using my oven/stove outlet, so I was hoping for a compact solution for the GFCI, I guess ill check home depot for the spa panel and measure it to see how much room it will take up on the counter

Thanks
 
I use a Harbor Freight 25 FT 10/3 exrtention cord to get from my dryer to my brew area.Works great and was cheap.A spa panel isn't exactly big and would be easy to store.You could set the spa panel up with female receptacles and make it even easier for storage

Do not wire a spa panel with a female input receptacle, as that implies you will be have a live feed with male prongs. Very dangerous.

You can use a male inlet receptacle or just hard wire. For the output, use a female outlet receptacle or hard wire.
 
I live in a rental apartment and the owner is cheap, so that's not an option. :(



Ill be brewing in the kitchen using my oven/stove outlet, so I was hoping for a compact solution for the GFCI, I guess ill check home depot for the spa panel and measure it to see how much room it will take up on the counter

Thanks

they are only like 5-6" x7-8" by about 3" deep...
 
Ended up ordering a spa panel from eBay. Couldn't find an appropriate sized cord GFCI.
Didn't even look at the final price of the panel in eBay due to the USA/Canada exchange rate :(
 
Is this an exceptable solution - the GFCI Square D breaker for my main box cost about $103 at HD or $75 on EBay. This seems like an easy solution if it is legit? Why would you want lug around the spa panel vs. putting the breaker in the main box. My recollection on my spa was that the panel for it was necessary due to being able to disconnect the spa easily to work on it ( and not get lazy and not make the trip to the basement breaker panel every time). No need to work on the Keggle live just unplug so maybe it is an acceptable solution. Only negative would be that it would be non-portable. Can someone confirm. thanks!
 
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