Water filter w/ Bypassng

So I thought I would stop commenting and start contributing for once. I will start by saying I absolutely could have done this differently but I worked with parts I already had but oh well.

I bought a water filter for my brew water because I'm still not sure what the make up of it is. Its well water so I grabbed a filter and set it up. After words I realized that I couldn't run hot water through it; only rated for 100f and mine comes out at 160+f.

My Solution was to build a bypass around it. I went with PVC for cost reasons.

Here it is cut up and laid out before fully assembling it.
Right side/Input:

Left side/Output:

The Whole Thing:


Here is the filter in a little table i built (not my best work)

Input assembled:

Output assembled:

Finished assembly:


Could I have done this differently? Yes. Could I just have bought a second hose to use? Yes. But thats not how i wanted it. Overall it only cost $30.
Cheers everybody

Yes you could have done it differently. CPVC is for drinking water, PVC is for drains. You only need 2 ball valves for 2 output, not 4.

Stevo2569 said:

Yes you could have done it differently. CPVC is for drinking water, PVC is for drains. You only need 2 ball valves for 2 output, not 4.

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PVC is fine for drinking water as long as it's cold water, for hot water you need to use CPVC.

Stevo2569 said:

Yes you could have done it differently. CPVC is for drinking water, PVC is for drains. You only need 2 ball valves for 2 output, not 4.

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Good to know the difference for the future. I used 4 valves because I wanted it full filter or full bypass. So the by closing it at the entrance and exit of the filter nothing enters and nothing can back flow. Similarly by adding the valves on the bypass make sure no water is diverted and then mixed with the water I want filtered.

I like it. Great Job!

noodle23 said:

Good to know the difference for the future. I used 4 valves because I wanted it full filter or full bypass. So the by closing it at the entrance and exit of the filter nothing enters and nothing can back flow. Similarly by adding the valves on the bypass make sure no water is diverted and then mixed with the water I want filtered.

Click to expand...

Sorry, didn't give you props. Good idea. In case your interested I run hot (120 F) through my water filter for several months now with no problem. BTW. Back flow? Mixed? Not unless there some serious restrictions on the other end of the flow when you turn the valve to allow it to and even then not likely much if any. I don't know what your psi is but mine is like 35. So if that's the case, just use the 2 on the output side. Well water on one side, Filtered or not on the other. I like over engineering things but not wasting time or money. Just sayin.

Well you inspired me. I got off early from work and set up a hard-plumbed by-pass for my brew-rig. So now I can go through the RIMS tube or through the RIMS tube and counter-flow chiller with the flip of a ball-valve. THANKS

Nicely done sir. I'm glad I could inspire you.