Updated Rubbermaid 10 Gallon MLT w/ copper manifold build

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BeerCanuck said:
I took apart my bulkhead and notated the various components;

bulkhead_notated.JPG


Cheers;
BeerCanuck
Click to expand...

This ended up working great! The only change I would make is that if you're using a 1/2" diameter nipple the ID of the washer needs to be 13/16". My MLT is finally done with 2/3 of a cup of dead space, so I'm ready to brew with it this weekend. Thanks all for the help!
 
I have had a chance to run 2 brew sessions through the updated manifold. For the most part I am happy with how it has worked out. The press fit is nice when cleaning and the dead space is less than a pint on mine and the flow is more than adequate.

The first time I tested the new manifold I did get a stuck mash. I noticed that all the water was stuck on top of the mash so I gently broke up the first ~3/4" of fine layer crust on top with my mash spoon. Starting from the center and working my way out the vacuum broke and the wort began flowing again allowing me to carry on and make preboil volume.

The last time I brewed I noticed that there was some channeling on the edges of the mash tun. This wasn't major since I was close to my expected original preboil volume and gravity. In the future I plan to preskim the crust off the top and directing the HLT input more toward the center of the mash bed.

Cheers;
BeerCanuck
 
BeerCanuck said:
I have had a chance to run 2 brew sessions through the updated manifold. For the most part I am happy with how it has worked out. The press fit is nice when cleaning and the dead space is less than a pint on mine and the flow is more than adequate.

The first time I tested the new manifold I did get a stuck mash. I noticed that all the water was stuck on top of the mash so I gently broke up the first ~3/4" of fine layer crust on top with my mash spoon. Starting from the center and working my way out the vacuum broke and the wort began flowing again allowing me to carry on and make preboil volume.

The last time I brewed I noticed that there was some channeling on the edges of the mash tun. This wasn't major since I was close to my expected original preboil volume and gravity. In the future I plan to preskim the crust off the top and directing the HLT input more toward the center of the mash bed.

Cheers;
BeerCanuck
Click to expand...

Why do you think you got a stuck sparge?
 
barhoc11 said:
Why do you think you got a stuck sparge?
Click to expand...

I believe the main reason that my mash got stuck or channeling occurs is due to the fine floating mash sediment that settles on top of a mash bed causing a vacuum / channeling at edges. I have not heard anyone else really elaborate on this but this is my experience and simple resolution.

Cheers;
BeerCanuck
 
BeerCanuck said:
I believe the main reason that my mash got stuck or channeling occurs is due to the fine floating mash sediment that settles on top of a mash bed causing a vacuum / channeling at edges. I have not heard anyone else really elaborate on this but this is my experience and simple resolution.

Cheers;
BeerCanuck
Click to expand...

I am worried now because I have a recently built copper manifold I have not used yet and wonder if I will get a stuck sparge. I did not have any issues with a stainless braid so I hope I didn't waste time for nothing.
 
barhoc11 said:
I am worried now because I have a recently built copper manifold I have not used yet and wonder if I will get a stuck sparge. I did not have any issues with a stainless braid so I hope I didn't waste time for nothing.
Click to expand...


I wouldn't worry barhoc..the manifold should allow for more uniform drainage. I was using the cheap and simple stainless hose for a few years and ran into a few stuck sparges with it as well. The easy way to resolve clear sparge water stuck on top of a mash bed with no wort flowing at output is breaking the vacuum / crust. The channeling I addressed with this better manifold design and potentially better HLT delivery to the center of the mash bed.

RDWHAHB
BeerCanuck
 
Got mine finished last night. Thanks for the ideas. It is a 2 gallon cooler for mini-mashs. I used nylon washers that I drilled out and the cooler had a rubber washer that I left in there because it makes a perfect internal seal. Let me know what you think.



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polo_check: do you have any of your measurements for the cut lengths? I have all material to make this and it sure would save some time!
 
I hate to bring up an old thread but I feel like I get a good amount of stuck sparges with my copper mainifold, does anyone else get these as well? I get some even when doing a thin mash and not using wheat. I condition my malt to help avoid stuck sparges but it doesn't seem to help.

Maybe I am getting things backwards but I thought a thin mash would help to avoid stuck sparges, it seems to make things worse for me.

Has anyone tried wrapping the copper pipes in stainless mesh as an extra defense?

Its getting annoying so i need to figure something better out, your help is appreciated.
 
barhoc11 said:
I hate to bring up an old thread but I feel like I get a good amount of stuck sparges with my copper mainifold, does anyone else get these as well? I get some even when doing a thin mash and not using wheat. I condition my malt to help avoid stuck sparges but it doesn't seem to help.

Maybe I am getting things backwards but I thought a thin mash would help to avoid stuck sparges, it seems to make things worse for me.

Has anyone tried wrapping the copper pipes in stainless mesh as an extra defense?

Its getting annoying so i need to figure something better out, your help is appreciated.
Click to expand...

Are you crushing your own grain? Its possible your over crushing and getting too much flour and other bits that are good at causing stuck sparges.
 
FuzzeWuzze said:
Are you crushing your own grain? Its possible your over crushing and getting too much flour and other bits that are good at causing stuck sparges.
Click to expand...

Yes, I crush my own grain but it is not too fine since there are usually some whole grains still showing up after going through the mill. It just doesn't seem like there is any way I am crushing too fine, even with conditioning the malt with water before milling.

Does anyone with a copper manifold like this get stuck sparges?
 
I am looking to build the same manifold. What are the dimensions of this manifold?

BeerCanuck said:
I have used the cheap and easy stainless hose design for a couple of years and decided to upgrade. I tend to fly sparge and was noticing some channeling and also wanted to keep everything 1/2". After looking at the previously mentioned how to brew article and this page I came up with this;

Mash_Manifold.jpg


I liked the idea of having the output closest to spigot but wasnt sure how to do it. I created a odd cross fitting with 1/2" tee and 1/2" street elbow. I drilled a hole in the tee and choped the street elbow to mate with it and soldered it together. It pressed fit tightly to a 5/8" female compression fitting. Here it is installed in the Rubbermaid;

Mash_Manifold_Installed.jpg



Cheers;
BeerCanuck
Click to expand...
 

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