All grain MLT question

I read this thread, https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=23008
I must say its awesome, but I was thinking about buying a more traditional rectangular cooler with a spigot. Do the directions in that thread work for lets just say any old run of the mill 10 gallon rubbermaid cooler with a spigot? Has anyone done one like that who has more applicable directions?

PS - im doing this because I have decided to go AG, i was going to go PM but decided to just dive in. Please someone tell me that its not all that hard!! im worried.

One more question, can you do full boils when partial mashing??? (just in case i dont go AG)

The concept is the same, but depending on the size and dimensions of the cooler you'll need a different sized SS braid.

EDIT: And yes, you can do a full boil with partial mashes

EamusCatuli said:

I read this thread, https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=23008
I must say its awesome, but I was thinking about buying a more traditional rectangular cooler with a spigot. Do the directions in that thread work for lets just say any old run of the mill 10 gallon rubbermaid cooler with a spigot? Has anyone done one like that who has more applicable directions?

Click to expand...

I am using that basic setup in a round RM cooler, but I believe the same thing works on about any of the coolers with a spigot. There's plenty of people on the forum using Igloo rectangular coolers, so it shouldn't be too difficult to get a verification of components.

PS - im doing this because I have decided to go AG, i was going to go PM but decided to just dive in. Please someone tell me that its not all that hard!! im worried.

Click to expand...

It's not all that hard. The only reason I'd tell someone to go PM rather than all out on AG is because of limited space and BTU's. If you can't do a full boil than you should probably plan on PM. That said, there's brewers doing AG and splitting the wort into two pots and doing two simultaneous boils. If it works, why not?

One more question, can you do full boils when partial mashing??? (just in case i dont go AG)

Click to expand...

Sure, but grain's cheaper than extract, so why? If you have the space and equipment to do a full boil, and you're going to do a mash, you might as well do the whole mash.

That setup will work with any cooler, although you may have to change the equipment a bit to adjust for parts availability, the thickness of the cooler, and/or whatever else. Be aware that using a braid in the cooler means you are probably limited to batch sparging.

I have 5 gallon cooler outfitted with just such a setup, and it works great.

The braid will limit you to batch sparging. You could attach a manifold instead of the hose barb to the nippled, but don't worry if you just want a braid. a slight tilt in the direction of the valve will help if you cannot find a long enough braid.

AG is not hard at all. I started off with AG and I've made drinkable beers from the get go. Albeit I won't say my first was earth shattering great, but it has been a good lesson.

I've learned a couple of things off the bat, such as making sure you pay close attention to temperatures of the grain bed to get the proper mash/sparge you need.

Make sure you've looked atYuri's youtube videos and How To brew's AG section if you still need more help. I think after my 3rd go-through of these resources, it all clicked and I understood what the heck was going on in regards to enzymatic activity, sparging and ph levels.

I'll just add that the main reason people will do partial mash is because they cannot do a full boil. So if you can handle a 7 gallon boil, just go AG so you get full control over the finished product.

ClutchDude said:

The braid will limit you to batch sparging.

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Can you explain why the braid limits you to batch sparging? Thanks.

The key behind fly sparging is having a uniform grain bed. The means you need to have collection points all around your grain bed, as you do not want channels where the wort is rushing towards the center to form. Instead, uniformity in washing and collection is what you want.

You would require a manifold for fly sparging. Batch Sparging, you just pour your water in, stir gently for a few minutes and allow the grains to resettle. I do not fly sparge, so anyone who has done so with a braid, feel free to add.

A manifold made of PVC is probably about the same price as the stainless braid. You just need a 24" section of 1/2" PVC 4 elbows and a T with threads on one joint. Use the threaded T to go through the cooler wall with a nipple, attach spigot and drill holes in the bottom of the PVC manifold. The elbows and T are under $1 each and the 24" piece of pipe is about $2. This gives you uniform draining for whichever method you decide to use.

Linc

I'll be using a 10gal round cooler with a circular SS braid. Not quite the same as the manifold described above, but seemingly more draining area than a straight braid. Would fly sparging work with that?

there is only one way to find out.

Try it and see.

Lot's of people on this board love the braid and have great success with it. I used it for a few brews and I didn't care for it. I weighted one end and it still kept floating up in the mash so it wasn't even on the bottom, then I was only draining from a point right at the spigot.

With my manifold, it stays in place from beginning to end and is always directly on the bottom of the tun. In my experience so far anyway.

Let us know how it works for you and what you think.

Linc