American Pale Ale Bee Cave Brewery Haus Pale Ale

idigg said:

Definitely not the same, at least there in 2 different bins and two different prices.

rahr 2 row pale - http://www.northernbrewer.com/default/rahr-2-row.html
rahr pale ale malt - http://www.northernbrewer.com/default/rahr-pale-ale.html

I'm perplexed!

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Calling a specific malt "2-row" just sucks because, like pointed out earlier, all unmalted barley is either 2-row or 6-row. Both of the malts you listed are 2-row.

From those links, it's clear that the "2-row" is much lighter in color (1.7L) than the pale malt (3-4L).

So, their "2-row" is very close to their pilsner malt, which is even lighter.

So should I use a 1.7L 2-row or a 3-4L 2-row for this recipe? I don't want to mess it up, I'm trying to be exact as my last few batches were sub-par!

generally speaking, plain old "two-row" is your lightest base malt for ales..."pale ale malt" is also a base malt, but a tad darker and slightly richer flavor (think of maris otter)...it's understood that they're both two-row, but that's just how the names go...

idigg said:

So should I use a 1.7L 2-row or a 3-4L 2-row for this recipe? I don't want to mess it up, I'm trying to be exact as my last few batches were sub-par!

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I'm guessing this recipe is the lighter 2-row and not "pale ale malt", although Edwort would have to say for sure.

Most people just use two row in their recipes, and add Vienna, crystal, munich, and other malts to get where they want it.

I bought a 50 lb. sack of Pale Ale Malt once, and used it pretty much interchangeably with std. 2-row. It makes a little difference in some beers, others not as much.

While we are on the topic og pale malt, is it possible that one 2-row pale malt can have significantly lower potential than another 2-row ?

Reason I ask is I have switched over to a local organic maltster (buy local- right?), and my efficiency seems to have gone south..(from 65ish to 50-55ish)

.I think I will try some Maris Otter in my mill to see if I get the same results.. I just can't think of anything that has changed besides my base malt..

Dryhopped with 2 oz cascades for 10 gal batch to salvage my accidental lack of boil hops. Plan on leaving it there for a week then cold crashing/kegging. Wish me luck...

Brewed this up on Sunday as my first all grain batch. I scaled it down to 2.5 gallons and did it in my kitchen as a warm up for my first outdoor all grain batch on my SQ14. Everything went smoothly up until I misremembered the OG and diluted it down to about 1.040. Should turn out well even with my brain fart.

I am going to fly sparge a 10 gallon batch of this in a few weeks. This is going to be my first 10 gallon batch. Should I just double the ingreients in the reciept?

I am brewing with a buddy thats a pro so I shouldn't make too many mistakes. I just want to show up with correct amounts of grain and hops.

Sorry if this has been talked about in the thread... way too many pages to research.

Thanks

Triple check. That's my advice after I forgot to double the hops. Yeast too

I kegged this the other day, I liked it but thought it needed an extra little something so I used an ounce of some whole leaf Santiam my brother gave me a while back. I didn't know what to use them with, and this recipe seemed pretty basic, so I thought I would throw them in to see what kind of flavor (if any)/aroma they would give to it.

Anyone ever use Santiam hops for a dry hop addition?

I am in love with this beer. All I have done to change it is add a little coriander and some orange peel. This will be a mainstay in my house. This may be my favorite beer. Sessionable, poundable, and refreshing. The wonderful creamy head and lacing are excellent as well!!

I searched but can't seem to find the answer. What is Ed's efficiency?

Beersmith makes me believe he just assumes 75%.

I just brewed this 9 days ago. My OG was 1.046 and now i'm at 1.007. It tastes great already. I guess it's normal to get a gravity reading of 1.007 with this beer???

1.007 isn't out the question, depending on the yeast strain, fermentation temps, and process. I brewed a split batch of this with 3 different yeast strains and they all finished at 1.008 or 1.009.

I brewed this beer for the first time a couple of weeks ago. I used a full pound of caramel 10 and 3oz of cascades. After 10 days in primary, I crash cooled it for three days. Today, I put in the keg and it is carbing up right now. The hydro sample was pretty tasty...

I'm starting to really like this beer! I'm definitely happy I dry hopped it with an ounce of Santiam too! While it was good before, it is even tastier now!!!

I have recycled Safale-05, but it's from a nut brown. Should I only use it for ambers or darker or would it be okay for this?

skippyf16 said:

I have recycled Safale-05, but it's from a nut brown. Should I only use it for ambers or darker or would it be okay for this?

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I'd save it for a darker beer or higher gravity. Just use a fresh pack for the Haus. You'll be happy you did.

Right now anticipating a Haus beer using Essex Ale Yeast (it was on sale!) ,,a few more weeks to go

Just popped the keg on this one today! WOW! fantastic! will brew this again! THANKS ED! serving this up to some friends friday eve. Hope they enjoy it as much as I do!

brewed during a SC heat wave so it did have some big fruity overtones but I like that.

Anyway fantastic recipe! Also gelatin cleared in keg and came out CRYSTAL CLEAR!

thanks yet again!

I am brewing 10g of something awfully similar to this on Sunday. This is a special batch for two reasons:

1) I am teaching my father how to brew on Sunday, and
2) We are going to serve this beer at my sister's wedding!

We are brewing at his house, I am taking my gear there, and will leave 5 gallons with him - he wants to bottle it and hand it out as favors to a few folks at the wedding. I am going to serve 'my' five gallons at the wedding from either a keg or from my pin.

I am leaning toward the pin at this point, but I think the bride and groom may want the keg for logistical reasons.

Just brewed this tonight as my first all grain. Og ended up at 1.040. Tastes and smells great. I can't wait to drink this one! Kippis!

Jaysus said:

I am leaning toward the pin at this point, but I think the bride and groom may want the keg for logistical reasons.

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Sorry, but what is a pin?

Yes, what is pin. Pin lock keg doesn't make sense in your sentence. Lol

I am brewing this right now, preboil gravity was 1.047!

Got 1.057 SG with 8.5lb 2 row, 2lb Vienna and. 5lb c10. Not bad!

nisk916 said:

Just brewed this tonight as my first all grain. Og ended up at 1.040. Tastes and smells great. I can't wait to drink this one! Kippis!

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Did you have an attack of the stupids like I did and dilute it down that far? Either way, I kegged my 1.040 OG Haus Pale ale today (I need the fermentation fridge tomorrow) and the hydro sample tasted great. Fermented down to 1.007.

Dryhopped with 2oz in 10gal batch.

Delicious. Thumbs up!

Utmustang said:

Well I have been drinking my first batch of this recipe for about 10 days now. It has a nice clean taste to it. The next time I brew this recipe I am going to try dry hopping as others have recommended. I would like it to be slightly more hoppy. My keg also has not completed cleared yet, but this might improve with time. If not I might use a secondary on the next batch. Thanks for the great recipe Ed.

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Just to update this post, my keg did clear up after about 3 weeks. I brewed the Austin Homebrew Kalamazoo IPA this weekend, and the grain bill was surprisingly similar to this recipe.

Like many others, this is going to be the recipe for my first all-grain brew. Hopefully this weekend. I have purchased the grain and hops but bought my lhbs only had 5.0% AA cascade hops. I can do the simple math to figure out how much hops I would need to keep the same IBUs but the staggered boiled times complicates things. My thinking is that since the later additions don't add as much bitterness, but add the same amount of flavor and aroma, that it would be best to add the extra hops in the 60 minute boil batch. Some tinkering with Beersmith seems to indicate that I would need a tad less than 2 ounces of 5.0%AA hops in that 60 minute boil batch to keep the bitterness at 39 IBUs. Does that make sense?

stblindtiger said:

Sorry, but what is a pin?

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idigg said:

Yes, what is pin. Pin lock keg doesn't make sense in your sentence. Lol

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A ~5 gallon cask vessel... essentially a smaller firkin.

Here is a shot of my pin in action:




And as an update... the future brother in law is a big fan of the pin idea. If I go that route, I will surely dry hop with something in the pin just for fun.

This is a super good thread. I'm about to try my first all grain and I'm going to use this one I think.

I'm going to do 10 gal of this and split them. One will become NA (non alcoholic). I can then taste them side by side. It;s for my wife (who is preggy!).

I used 8.5lbs of 2row instead of 8lbs, and got a OG of 1.057 and I just checked the gravity, and it is 1.010 after 7 days. This fermented out FAST. Is 1.010 going to be really dry? I dry hopped 1oz cascade today, going to bottle after 14 days.

I just pulled a pint of this beer (also my first all grain brew). It's delicious and very malty. It has a pretty strong malt presence, as in much more than I was expecting. Did that come from the Vienna malt?

Brewed this (first all grain too) and was lighting the burner as the earthquake hit us here in Virginia. Everything hit right on the numbers except we had to boil 90 instead of 60 minutes. I could tell it was going to take alittle longer so I held off on the last hops addition. The 60 was 90, 30 a 60 and 15 a 45 though. Will this matter much? How about the rest of the wort? OG was spot on though as well as final volume.

Earthquake Pale Ale, cool!

Unfortunately it will make a difference, mostly in your flavor/aroma additions. It will be a bit more bitter as well. Make sure you dry hop it which will help.

I made a 2.5 gal batch of this yesterday (I chose that quantity because I've got quite a bit to drink already). I simply cut the quantity of ingredients in half, and used Maris Otter instead of American 2-row.

Interestingly, my original gravity was 1.075! Does anyone know why the wort ended up with such a higher gravity than the intended 1.051?

In terms of set-up I'm using a picnic cooler (about 30 litres) as a mash tun, and covering it with a thick duvet, then using a 21 litre stock pot as a boiler. If my calculations are correct I had 79 percent efficiency yesterday!

Jaysus said:

A ~5 gallon cask vessel... essentially a smaller firkin.

Here is a shot of my pin in action:

And as an update... the future brother in law is a big fan of the pin idea. If I go that route, I will surely dry hop with something in the pin just for fun.

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Where did you get that? I want one!