Help with flavor hops.

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thantos

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Hey all,
I know everyone tastes and smells things different. So I would like your opinions on what you consider to be a flavor hop. I am looking for a way to impart more of a floral flavor into my beer with out increasing the bitterness. So with that said;

1). Which hop do you think would impart more of a floral flavor in the beer, without necessarily increasing the IBU's?

2). Which method to use to achieve it? (Last 5 min. or last 1 min. of the boil to dry hopping 1/2 oz Primary, 1/2 oz secondary or both)

Ok Discuss ;)
 
You're going to get a flood of opinions here. What style of beer are you brewing? Willamette hops are great for flavor and aroma in APAs, IPAs, Porters and Stouts. I really like to dry-hop APAs with Willamette.
 
Well, just about any hop variety will give flavor, not bitterness after about 40 minutes into the boil (20 minutes left). So, any additions from 15 minutes left in the boil on will be for flavor and aroma.

I think that centennials can be floral- in fact I know that I posted that I tasted ****ing flowers for about a month in my Lil Bastard. But they also have a citrusy flavor, too.

I think simcoe is piney; amarillo is grapefruity; cascade is citrusy; Mt. Hood, liberty, crystal, hallertauer are "clean"; Saaz is slightly flowery, but "clean" as well, and delicate; fuggles are a bit flowery but a bit grassy; EKG taste like dirt to me; northern brewer tastes a little minty; Spalt are a little spicy but very nice; sterling (I've used sterling when I can't get saaz) is a wee bit spicy, but also a little floral with a hint of citrus; Tettnanger (a noble hop) is very much like Saaz. I don't get a ton of floral aroma with many of these, but I use all of them in different beers.
 
If you want floral, it takes a ton of Centennial to get flowers. Crystal is floral. Athanum is floral.

Personally, if you are making an APA or IPA, I'd FWH an ounce or two of Crystal and an ounce of two of Crystal or Athanum at flame out. That should get you what you want.
 
Thanks for the great responses! I am wanting to use this in two of my beers a APA, and a American Amber Ale. I have decided to try dry hoping in the primary and secondary each with a 1/2 oz. of Willamette hops. Here is my modified recipe for the AAA I am brewing tomorrow.

8 lbs. Ultralight
1 lbs. Crystal 60L
1.5 oz. Cascade - Bittering 60 mins.
1 oz. Willamette - Flavoring last 5 mins.
1 oz. Willamette - Aroma last 1 min.
1/2 Tab Whirlfloc last 5 mins.
1 Tspn Irish Moss last 5 mins.
1/2 oz. Willamette Dry hop in primary 7 days
1/2 oz. Willamette Dry hop in Secondary 7 days

White lab - California Ale Yeast - 001

Est. OG. 1.051-54
Est. IBU 39-41 This is the original before dry hopping.
Est ABV 5%
Ferm temp 68 deg.

I am thinking of adding another 1 lbs. of the Ultralight to help round out any added bittering from the dry hoping. As I imagine there will be a little?

Please let me know what you all think.
Thanks Gene
 
Thanks for the great responses! I am wanting to use this in two of my beers a APA, and a American Amber Ale. I have decided to try dry hoping in the primary and secondary each with a 1/2 oz. of Willamette hops. Here is my modified recipe for the AAA I am brewing tomorrow.

8 lbs. Ultralight
1 lbs. Crystal 60L
1.5 oz. Cascade - Bittering 60 mins.
1 oz. Willamette - Flavoring last 5 mins.
1 oz. Willamette - Aroma last 1 min.
1/2 Tab Whirlfloc last 5 mins.
1 Tspn Irish Moss last 5 mins.
1/2 oz. Willamette Dry hop in primary 7 days
1/2 oz. Willamette Dry hop in Secondary 7 days

White lab - California Ale Yeast - 001

Est. OG. 1.051-54
Est. IBU 39-41 This is the original before dry hopping.
Est ABV 5%
Ferm temp 68 deg.

I am thinking of adding another 1 lbs. of the Ultralight to help round out any added bittering from the dry hoping. As I imagine there will be a little?

Please let me know what you all think.
Thanks Gene
Dont put dry hops in the primary, the yeast will evaporate them away, instead use the 1 oz. in the secondary, you will get zero bittering from the dry hops, they must be boiled to get the bittering, good luck with your brew.
 
Dont put dry hops in the primary, the yeast will evaporate them away, instead use the 1 oz. in the secondary, you will get zero bittering from the dry hops, they must be boiled to get the bittering, good luck with your brew.

I dry hop in the primary all the time. A lot of commercial brewers add their dry hops after the peak of fermentation. Now if you were going to add them at high krausen, then I could see a problem with that process.
 
Yep, unfortunately I had explained to my buddy about dry hopping this batch and when I went to get the yeast he put the hops in! Had no choice but to pitch and hope for the best!

It'll be fine, but you'll need to dryhop again once the fermentation is over. The co2 blowing out from the primary fermenter will blow off all of the dryhopping aroma.
 
Oops. It is a little confusing. Everything concerning the timing of hop additions is done backwards. Adding flavor hops at fifteen minutes means fifteen minutes left in the boil and adding dry hops for seven days means seven day left in fermentation.
 
When I dryhop the primary, I do it when the fermentation is complete and about about 5-8 days before moving to 2ndary if I am going to dryhop again. If not, then I cold crash for a few days and bottle it up.
 
I made a 5 gallon extract batch which I divided between two Mr Beers. I did a 20 min boil and put a Oz of Sazz in a tea boil ten min before flame out. When I took the tea boil out it had open up so the hops were in the wort. Left it in the fermenter two weeks and has been in the bottle for one. Going to wait another week to carb. Am I going to be tasting some bad swill, with the hops being in the wort all during fermentation?
 
I made a 5 gallon extract batch which I divided between two Mr Beers. I did a 20 min boil and put a Oz of Sazz in a tea boil ten min before flame out. When I took the tea boil out it had open up so the hops were in the wort. Left it in the fermenter two weeks and has been in the bottle for one. Going to wait another week to carb. Am I going to be tasting some bad swill, with the hops being in the wort all during fermentation?

I don't strain my hops out of my wort, and I haven't made swill yet. I can't say I never strain- if I make a beer with more than about 2-3 ounces of hops, I'll often strain them out just because they take up so much room in the fermenter. Otherwise, I always toss my hops in the wort (never use a bag) and I always dump all of my wort in the fermenter.

If you bag your hops, or compact them in a tea ball, that can negatively impact utilization. You want the hops to be in contact with the wort. So, if you use a bag, make sure they are very loose in there, with free movement.
 
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