Received my Ranger Creek Oatmeal Pale Ale kit in mail, the packet of Nottingham yeast appears to have been punctured (no obvious holes) b/c it has lost its vacuum seal. Are there chances of dry yeast becoming contaminated or affected by loss of the seal? (again, no obvious holes in pouch). Not sure if I should still use it or not...AHBS is already sending out a new packet.
Packet of dry yeast ok to use?
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kombat
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There's a chance it could have been contaminated, yes. If there's already a new one on the way, I'd play it safe and not use the punctured one.
I'd do that. Not all dry yeast packets come looking/feeling like all of the air was completely sucked out of them.
More importantly, closely watch the ferment temps when using Notty. It's fine with cooler temps (down into the mid-upper 50's to start), but most certainly keep it under 68*F (beer temp, not air) the first 5 days unless you want some funky off-flavors. Get your wort chilled down around 60*F before pitching.
dannyhawkins
Well-Known Member
Everything they said^^
But also I'm curious to know how this turns out for you? I've developed a clone using info on the Ranger Creek brewery website and it came out great. I used the Wyeast GreenBelt (from Austin Homebrew) and I feel like it added to the creaminess from the oatmeal. Very nice and overall just about dead on as far as I can tell without a side by side. Let me know if you want the recipe or anything. I'm curious to see how similar they are.
But also I'm curious to know how this turns out for you? I've developed a clone using info on the Ranger Creek brewery website and it came out great. I used the Wyeast GreenBelt (from Austin Homebrew) and I feel like it added to the creaminess from the oatmeal. Very nice and overall just about dead on as far as I can tell without a side by side. Let me know if you want the recipe or anything. I'm curious to see how similar they are.
Cool, thanks guys. I used two packs of Notty in the imperial stout and they were vaccuum sealed. I'm worried b/c I read somewhere else about the temp intolerance with Notty AFTER the first 4 days of ferment...I kept it at 65-67 ambient...now kicking myself for not tossing in a couple more frozen bottles to keep it at 62ish...hopefully b/c stout and will be bottled for 4mths before drinking, any off flavors will be cleaned up?
It was a mini mash kit...AHBS gave 3 choices of yeast, dry is just easier for me and Notty is what they were recommending? Always open for recipes for when I go all grain!! Will definitley be keeping ferment temps lower when I brew this one now that I know....I need to research yeast temp preferences more with my beers in future...Thx!
Brewed yesterday, soaked the packet in star san for good 2 hrs. Opened and all appeared dry. Rehydrated and had some good "foam" produced after 30min's so took that as good sign. Pitched it into a nicely chilled (~62deg) wort and put in a nicely cooled swamp cooler (~62) yesterday @5PM and have blow off tube activity this AM! Still at 62 so threw in more frozen 1L bottles to try and bring it down to 60. Thx for the input fellas!
stpug
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I'm sure it'll be fine, but Danstar yeast IS supposed to be vacuum sealed. I think they even have a statement somewhere indicating that if it's not vacuum sealed then it may be compromised. Not to worry you because I've used yeast that was probably in far worse shape and had decent results.
edit:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f14/danstar-yeast-new-vacuum-packed-sachets-232521/
edit:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f14/danstar-yeast-new-vacuum-packed-sachets-232521/
We'll see about how taste comes out (although I discovered I have been steeping incorrectly so not sure if all these mini mash kits are going to turn out badly now...). I will be washing it either way. Then will have batches of BRY97 and Notty ready to pitch....maybe even put a "Danstar" sitcker on the fridge?!?
Sir-Hops-A-Lot
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If you're mini-mashes aren't going well, try Deathbrewer's tutorial. It's really easy.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/easy-partial-mash-brewing-pics-75231/
A word to the wise about washing yeasts: When you're dealing with Nottingham and other dry yeasts, they're about 3$ a package. It's great that you're learning some techniques but consider all the work that you put into making your beer. Is it really worth the risk of off-flavors or infections for 3$?
Do you know how to make a starter? That is one area of expertise that will really improve the taste of your beers when you use liquid yeasts.
Have fun
SHAL
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/easy-partial-mash-brewing-pics-75231/
A word to the wise about washing yeasts: When you're dealing with Nottingham and other dry yeasts, they're about 3$ a package. It's great that you're learning some techniques but consider all the work that you put into making your beer. Is it really worth the risk of off-flavors or infections for 3$?
Do you know how to make a starter? That is one area of expertise that will really improve the taste of your beers when you use liquid yeasts.
Have fun
SHAL
Thanks! I have another thread started just other day re: my technique/equipment I'm using. Although I have nailed my OG measurements. I will read up on it when get a chance. I hear ya on the washing, but I figure if I get 4 batches worth (4 pint mason jars) that's about $12. Last time it worked great on my Deadringer Ale with BRY97. I made a 3L starter when I re-pitched that. I have had no problems with my OG-FG efficiencies so far...
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