Propane to all out electric build

Sweet!
I love it!
I want it!
I need it!

I.....don't even own my own garage or have the money for something so big.

slakwhere said:

Why 2 lights per control?

Click to expand...

Just for showing switch selection and notify when something is drawing power.

With your breakers - the double pole ones show two black wires coming out. Did you give up on standard wire convention (one red, one black), or is there a reason you are using a double pole breaker with only one hot leg split between both sides?

Otherwise, very clean panel. I couldn't bundle all my wires as nicely, that's for sure!

BadNewsBrewery said:

With your breakers - the double pole ones show two black wires coming out. Did you give up on standard wire convention (one red, one black), or is there a reason you are using a double pole breaker with only one hot leg split between both sides?

Otherwise, very clean panel. I couldn't bundle all my wires as nicely, that's for sure!

Click to expand...

Good question. But yes, wired correct and done in black wire. More for gauge then color coding.

Test fired tonight in water and all ran. Now to learn the BCS 460, mount panel and brew a batch.

Panel mounted and testing some programming.

Are you an actual garbage man?

DrPhilGood said:

Are you an actual garbage man?

Click to expand...

I sell garbage trucks and street sweepers. Spent plenty of time on the back though.

First BCS test and RIMS tube. I really dig how much you can do with the BCS.


Screen Shot:

ambient over 220F, it gets HOT in your garage!

And looking at the boil kettle, it must be well below sea level.

In the summer yes. Just not that hot. Those probes are disconnected.

Here is my finished graphic for the HMI on BCS.



Still learning the javascript to change the img with processes so I can add hoses and only show what items are active. Also, add the widgets from BCS.

Process #1: Ricirculating Mash

looks great! this is almost entirely unrelated, but i just noticed in the image your pump orientation. you'll have an easier time priming your pump if you rotate that head 90 degrees so the exit is pointing UP instead of sideways.

As requested a close up of the RIMs tube element end from Brewers Hardware.






Element done for the boil kettle. 5500w using slip cover and potting in JB weld. Super easy and quick. Great idea for safety.

I use the same element enclosure for my distillation. I am thinking about converting to electric now. Your build makes thing look a little easier. Deff has my attention.

I went to all electric due to the summer heat and havent looked back. I really want to know where you got that monitor. I will be in cola for the upcoming beer fest.

Monitor: State Surplus by the airport. Hit and miss.

Wife and I will be brewfest. But the top brewfest in SC is in Charleston on February 23rd. Sam from dogfish and Ken from Seirra Nevada will be the keynote speakers. Check it out brewvival.com

I found a thread by POL for the element enclosure. 10 minutes and your done.

Up close and keggle.

Awesome thanks. I will definitely have try and make that one as I've heard good things about it. I went to a smaller version in Beaufort a few years ago and had a blast. This will be the first year where I'll be off from work for both.

Unlike beer Fest in Cola, Brewvival purchases the beer from the breweries. They don't require it to be donated like the beer Fest in Columbia. Last year, breweries went dry after 2-3 hours in Columbia. Go to the 12-4 if you have a choice. Less crowded and more beer.

Brewvival adds great food and great bands. Plus, it's across from Coast brewing.

Update:



First full run tonight. Choose Biermunchers Blonde for simplicity and I did not want to hide any flaws or errors with a big hoppy brew. Was really happy with setup. Things I learned and notes from first run.

- Connect BCS direct to computer to avoid router/network failure.
- I control RIMS element by probe at end of RIMS tube. Add 7 degrees to set point to equalize temp in Mash Tun. IE: RIMS exit temp 158 = 151 in grain bed.
- Ramped mash water to 170, add grain and recirculate. Dropped to 152. Let balance and mashed at 150. Held perfect for 50 minutes recirculating. Ramped up to 170, held and transferred to BK.
- Immersion chiller to cool. Used pump to whirlpool wort and 55 degree tap water through IC. Dropped from 212 to 68 in 25 minutes.

OG was 1.040 and 68% efficiency. Added 1# extra 2 row since I do single infusion sparge. Some channeling in grain bed. Flow speed and a sparge arm should help this.

Sweet -- sounds like a great first session on the new system!

garbageman said:

I control RIMS element by probe at end of RIMS tube. Add 7 degrees to set point to equalize temp in Mash Tun. IE: RIMS exit temp 158 = 151 in grain bed.

Click to expand...

The general wisdom is to use the hottest point in the loop as your mash temp rather than the grain bed (although you can stir the mash and/or tweak your system to try to get the gap down.)

The rationale is that since the wort is at 158 as it goes through the tube, this is denaturing the beta amylase (giving you a sweeter wort), regardless of the grain bed temperature. A few degrees higher and you'll start to denature the alpha amylase too, slowing or stopping the conversion.

So you say even though the grain bed is holding at the correct mash temp, I need to more concerned with the temp flowing through the tube. I read the grain bed temp but not as an output control.

My worry would be the grain bed temp holding at 144 if I hold the RIMS tube exit at 151.

That's what I do (on a direct fire system), and that seems to be the collective wisdom on HBT. In fact, I don't observe a constant gap between the grain bed and the hottest point in my RIMS loop (in my case, the output of the kettle). It depends on the length of time since I mashed in, the flow rate, the mash thickness, etc. When the gap gets large I stir the hell out of my grain bed, and that usually narrows the gap by a few degrees.

Ok, so I ran again today.

A play on Ed Worts Haus Pale Ale but using Jade hops for middle and late additions. Also will dry hop a small amount before kegging.

Ambient was 60 degrees, but I think my keggle MLT still needs a jacket. Closer to temp today. Set at 151 at exit on tube, MLT grain bed read a stead 146-147. My efficiency was off .003. Not bad for single infused mashing. I did add an extra # of base malt.

Tasted and smelled good. Still no scorching or problems I couldn't fix. Even though I'm in the garage, vented to outside, the whole house had a wonderful sweet malt aroma to it.

My question is with condensation with all your lighting and electronics mounted how is it wirking. my next step is a hood.

Hood is under construction. I've brewed 3 times on it so far over the last two weeks. All three times I was in the 60s so I opened the garage door and turned on a small fan. The BK is right by the garage door, so it rolled right out.

Not worried about electronics, but have some sealed LED spots that I may use in the hood and over the work space. Just need to see how brite they are and if they will work. I do not like the hanging light I have now.