Single Tier, 3 Pump, BCS-462, Automated Rig

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Could you post some detail pics of the insides of the kettles? Thanks.

Sure, I'll try to remember to do it this weekend, but nothing real special in there.

The BK has the Blichmann kettle screen (not the newer hop blocker) at the bottom and a dangling hose on a QD at the top. The hose coils and extends to the bottom so there is no aeration when filling or recirculating the wort.

The MLT has the Blichmann false bottom w/ a similar dangling hose on a QD at the top. The hose lays coiled on top of the grain bed.

The HLT has a pickup tube at the bottom and because I didn't want to drill another hole in the top, it has a U shaped contraption hanging over the side for the recirc return. The inside leg of the U has a SS straight pipe that extends to the bottom. I'm contemplating what I'm going to do to change this though as the return really puts the hot water back near the outlet valve, so I'm sure there is still some temperature stratification going on.
 
What size stainless pipe are you using and what type of fittings do you have for connections on the stainless plumbing?
 
Hey, where did you pick up those handy solenoid ball valves for the liquid transfers?

FYI - Solenoid valves are different than ball valves. I have solenoid valves on the NG burners, but SS ball valves on the liquid stuff.

http://www.electric-valve.com/ I ordered direct from China. Shipping costs is a killer, but if you get a few people together to order a quantity of them, it makes it worth it.
 
Here's a little update.
Changes include:
- Replaced HLT kettle with another Blichmann 20G w/ false bottom (this cuts time during double brew days as I swap the HLT/MLT kettles).
- Replaced all McMaster QD's with MoreBeer Stainless QD's.
- Moved my gas controls from the rear of the stand to the front.

Brew_stand_9.jpg
 
Whoever is inheriting your old stuff is getting some nice equipment. Your new stuff is beyond deluxe. How did you attach the returns at the top? Welded?
 
Whoever is inheriting your old stuff is getting some nice equipment. Your new stuff is beyond deluxe. How did you attach the returns at the top? Welded?

The returns are weldless fittings. The 3 piece valve attaches to a 45 degree elbow which mates to a male SS QD on the inside of the kettles. The QD makes all 3 kettles swappable as I can either attach my long SS whirlpool dip tube for the boil kettle or attach an elbow with silicone tubing for the MLT and HLT. I'll try to get a clearer picture of it.

The 45 degree elbow brings the top return valve out to about the same (front facing) distance as the bottom valve. This gives the added benefit of holding the tubing about 4 inches away from the stand so that it is not directly affected by the burner heat.
 
I love the symmetry of it all. If it works as good as it looks, you'll be making some damn fine beer.

Thanks. Yeah, the simplicity and symmetry were design goals. I just hate confusing layouts and plumbing running everywhere. My first rig had too many valves and I had to think out each step as I (manually) opened and closed valves.

In the first 6 weeks of 2011, I brewed 50 gallons on it (1 single brew day and 2 double brew days).

The only additional mod I'm currently thinking about is to possibly add some type of tippy dump for the MLT.
 
love the stand and layout! using some of your ideas and adjustments in my stand.

which valves did you use from valves4projects? also, which valves are you using on the gas/pilots (the yellow ones).

Thanks!
 
love the stand and layout! using some of your ideas and adjustments in my stand.

which valves did you use from valves4projects? also, which valves are you using on the gas/pilots (the yellow ones).

Thanks!

The gas valves from valves4projects are "1/2" Electric Solenoid Valve 110-VAC Air, Water... B21N". The yellow valves are standard manual gas valves from the hardware store.
 
Is that aluminum diamond plate and what thickness did you go with? Looking to order a piece to copy yours, did you buy it online?
 
Is that aluminum diamond plate and what thickness did you go with? Looking to order a piece to copy yours, did you buy it online?

It is 1/8" aluminum diamond plate. I bought it at a local metal supplier. For 18" x 60" it was $70. I just had to notch out the corners to fit the lower shelf. I also ran a bead of silicone under it so if I have any spills, it won't run under the shelf. (I've over filled my HLT twice now, so it has done it's job!)
 
Very nice brew rig you designed there JonW
I thought I saw the video of your setup on YouTube;
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/user/Backhousebrew#p/u/4/v-exFecRiVg"]Brewcommune Homebrewer's Club" Brew Day[/ame]

Well thought out and executed :mug:

BeerCanuck
 
Jon, awesome build man!

would you happen to have a part number for the hoses you used? i need to replace mine since i'm not 100% happy with what i got from mcmaster.

Thanks!
 
Very nice brew rig you designed there JonW
I thought I saw the video of your setup on YouTube;
Brewcommune Homebrewer's Club" Brew Day

Well thought out and executed :mug:

BeerCanuck

Jon, awesome build man!

would you happen to have a part number for the hoses you used? i need to replace mine since i'm not 100% happy with what i got from mcmaster.

Thanks!

Thanks guys, I appreciate the feedback!

The hoses are thermoplastic. They are a bit stiffer than the silicone hoses that many people use. You can get it at several of the home brew stores like this: http://www.northernbrewer.com/default/1-2-id-thermoplastic-tubing.html (I do use the soft silicone tubing for the coil at the top of my grain bed in the mash tun though.)

I use the full flow (1/2" ID) hose barbs from BrewersHardware.com. Since the barbs are over-sized, they hold very tight and do not leak without any clamps.
 
How do you sanitize your chiller? Do you recirculate the boiling wort or do you run sanitizer through before first strike?

Beautiful build:mug:
 
How do you sanitize your chiller? Do you recirculate the boiling wort or do you run sanitizer through before first strike?
I rinse and sanitize everything after a brew day. On brew day, I run boiling wort through the chiller for the last 10 minutes of the boil.

Beautiful build:mug:
Thank you! :)

Do you have any problems with not being able to drain all the liquid out of the plumbing?

All the (vertical) hoses disconnect. The only thing left stationary are the pumps and the horizontal SS rod connecting them. With all valves open and no hoses connected, it drains pretty complete. The chiller is only mounted hand tight so I can take it off and drain it (turn it side to side until empty).
 
How do you sanitize your chiller? Do you recirculate the boiling wort or do you run sanitizer through before first strike?

Beautiful build:mug:

On my system I run starsan through the chiller at the beggining of the day. Never had any contamination. I do recirc boiling wort through the pump and plumbing prior to running it to the chiller because the wort goes through that plumbing prior to boiling when transfering from the mash tun.
 
Do you have any problems with not being able to drain all the liquid out of the plumbing?

I have a similar system and there is always going to be some lost wort (about 1/4 gal) in the plumbing. After I clean and rinse my system I disconnect all hoses and blow out the plumbing with compressed air. Works like a charm.
 
Stupid question, but is there any reason you went with the blue valves over the black valves similar to the gas vales?

I am assuming, correct me if I'm wrong, but the black valves are solenoid vales and the blue are electronic ball valves correct?

Is there any draw back to using all solenoid valves for a similar design?
 
Great job!
Where are you finding pumps for $100.
There were Chugger pumps (March clone) on Ebay last year for less than $100 and some actual March's going for barely over $100 at the time.

Stupid question, but is there any reason you went with the blue valves over the black valves similar to the gas vales?

I am assuming, correct me if I'm wrong, but the black valves are solenoid vales and the blue are electronic ball valves correct?

Is there any draw back to using all solenoid valves for a similar design?
The solenoid valves all use a rubber diaphram for their sealing. They do not come totally clean when rinsing fluid through your system and they tend to stick over time when used with wort. The blue valves are SS ball valves that clean 100% when running PBW or other cleaner through them. I use the less expensive solenoids for gas, but the ball valves for liquid.

The solenoid valves open & close instantly, but the ball valves take about 5 seconds to fully open or close.
 
There were Chugger pumps (March clone) on Ebay last year for less than $100 and some actual March's going for barely over $100 at the time.


The solenoid valves all use a rubber diaphram for their sealing. They do not come totally clean when rinsing fluid through your system and they tend to stick over time when used with wort. The blue valves are SS ball valves that clean 100% when running PBW or other cleaner through them. I use the less expensive solenoids for gas, but the ball valves for liquid.

The solenoid valves open & close instantly, but the ball valves take about 5 seconds to fully open or close.

What did the ball valves run you? I was looking at some different ones and they were 200-300$ a piece
 
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