Cider Press Ideas!

I am in the process of building a press. I have built the frame and am about to build the basket (as soon as I iron out my BOM). I was following the following plans:



The only issue I have run into is with regards to the screw assembly. I can't weld, nor can I seem to locate a piano screw.

Now! My challenge to all of you is to help me come up with a cheap (but durable) press mechanism. I was thinking of using a stainless steel threaded rod (HD/Lowes), but I am running into roadblocks with how to connect it to the squeeze board, as well as attaching some sort of nut to the top 4x4. I have also considered using a hydraulic jack or a scissor jack, but I figured that if I was spending the time to build a round basket, I might as well try to make it a bit more "authentic".

a hydraulic jack is most likely going to be a lot more efficient than a screw type press. What in the end do you care about. authenticity of the press, OR efficiency at juice extraction?

I've heard of but never tried a boat trailer jack.
I personally use a car jack, but that may or may not help you out with your design.

I was originally going to use a hydraulic jack for my press, but after looking at my frame and deciding to go with a slat style basket, I figured I should try to put the time into making something that I could be proud of. I definitely see how the hydraulic jack would probably be the most efficient method (and I will probably cave and go with that method), but for some reason I seem to dislike the jack method because it seems too easy (I know its a silly excuse).

I've got materials for both screw type (ACME thread and Ball Screw) and Hydraulic Jack. I think the Hydraulic would be easier to build.

The plans I saw for that style showed a guy barely able to press down on the jack. I guess you can put a LOT of effort into it. Maybe use an extended handle?

The nice thing about the hydraulic jack is that it's capable of plenty of force, and doesn't require any fancy holes to mount it, or a bearing surface on the press plate, like a screw style would.

And you can use it to replace your differential when you're not making cider...

Guys, don't get all caught up in 'authenticity.' Sure, the old presses you see are all screw driven. That's because the guys who built them didn't have access to hydraulic presses. If they had, you can bet that all of the old cider presses out there would be made that way. Why in the world would you intentionally build something that takes twice the effort and produces inferior results? They used to build Model T's back in the day, too. That doesn't mean you want to own a 2012 model.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200326415_200326415?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Metal%20Fabrication-_-Shop%20Presses-_-145212&ci_sku=145212&ci_gpa=pla&ci_kw={keyword}

buy this,
then build a wooden square with a inch rise at the edge, chewed up apples and some cloth, square plywood to go between layers of cloth/apple.
one hour of work and 200 bucks total.
done and done.

the machine for chewing up the apples is a much different story though.

I found a site with instructions for building a hydraulic cider press instead of the threaded design used here. Just in case anyone was interested.

http://www.van-vliet.org/dempseywoodworking/appleciderpress.shtml

I think I might try this some day!

alright you sold me. I plan to use a hydraulic jack. However, I was wondering what people were thinking in terms of a pressure plate. I had seen a picture of some guys pressure plate snapped in two and I wanted to avoid that.

Big two inch thick piece of oak.

paulthenurse said:

Big two inch thick piece of oak.

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the answer to so many of life's problems...

I think you need a piece of steel, about 1/4" think should be enough. An 1/8" might even be enough, but no point taking chances.

Cast Iron might prove even more resilient, but I’m not sure how easy that will be to find and work with.

Stay away from Aluminum as it does not have the strength to withstand a lot of force. Copper should work too, but is pretty expensive.

cast iron and the acidity inherent in apple juice is generally a bad idea.

Well the pressure plate SHOULD never see any apple juice, but then should is never absolute and there are lots of problems with cast iron, mostly getting it the size and shape you want.

I say stainless steel is your best bet for the pressure plate

It's relatively easy to laminate a thick piece of wood, like Oak, and cut it into a round shape...

Then again, there is no reason that you can't make it square if you are using the wrapped and stacked method of pressing your apples.

I am thinking about attempting to mount the jack upside down so the base of the jack can be mounted to the top crossbeam. The "piston" will then push down on the pressure plate that is bolted to piece of wood that comes in contact with the apples. Any reasons not to do this?

Not if you use a stainless steel pressure plate! But any iron or mild steel (non-stainless) plate will likely see some apple juice on that end and will likely rust due to the acid content

SkiNuke said:

I am thinking about attempting to mount the jack upside down so the base of the jack can be mounted to the top crossbeam. The "piston" will then push down on the pressure plate that is bolted to piece of wood that comes in contact with the apples. Any reasons not to do this?

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... Do you have a good reason to mount the jack upside-down? Same pressure either direction.

The reasons would be to have fewer pieces to store, and I want it to look less like something that I threw together overnight and more like something thats durable and well constructed. I was thinking I could drill through the baseplate and bolt it to the upper crossbeam. I guess in reality it comes down to appearance more than anything, but I was wondering if there were any good reasons not to do it.

Mount the jack in a "Sleeve" (the base slides into an "L" bracket on each side) and mount some return springs between the upper cross piece and the jack plate. You don't have to mount the jack to the press plate. Then you can simply back off the release screw and the jack will raise automatically, and you can pull out the press plate.

homercidal said:

mount the jack in a "sleeve" (the base slides into an "l" bracket on each side) and mount some return springs between the upper cross piece and the jack plate. You don't have to mount the jack to the press plate. Then you can simply back off the release screw and the jack will raise automatically, and you can pull out the press plate.

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+1

I think I understand what you are saying, but I am trying to picture it. So your suggesting to make a "sling" (or "sleeve") made of L-brackets and return springs, that would hang from the crossbeam? I would then insert the jack upright into this "sling" and put the press plate between the apples and the bottom of the L-bracket?

I really appreciate the ideas, thanks.

To the post which suggested mounting the hydraulic jack upside down; a word of advice:

Test it in this position before you do. The cheap 2 ton jack I got at Menards for $2.77 after mail in rebate most certainly doesnt work upside down. The hydraulic fluid is usually contained in a reservoir inside the casing and if it's in the wrong position, you can pump all day long and never get any movement out of the arm.

I know this because I got all the way through building my rig, mounting it all nice and neat using a custom made harness and routing out the edges for a finished look, only to find it was a piece of scrap.

Here is my advice from someone who built his rig from the ground up... Keep it simple, and dont over-engineer your design. I put 2x as much lumber as I needed into my rig and it can double as a jungle gym for my 5 year old. You dont need 1/2 inch bolts at a buck each, and you dont need 15 cross braces to keep it from swaying when you apply pressure.

One of these days I guess i'll post up pictures of my rig.

The small end of the jack pushes up against the main beam, if this causes problems mount a small pressure plate on the underside of the beam.

gregbathurst said:

The small end of the jack pushes up against the main beam, if this causes problems mount a small pressure plate on the underside of the beam.

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+1. The jack WILL chew up the wood, and press into it.

Also like the idea of using cheaper structural wood, unless you want to make a functioning work or craftsmanship. 2x4, 4x4, and 2x6 board will work nicely.

Notch the pieces so they kind of 'lock in' together (like a log cabin) and bolt them together.

With a jack mounted upright and return springs (not necessary at all, but maybe somewhat handier to handle) you can cut different lengths of 4x4 to get just the right amount of distance to go between the press plate and the jack. Just swap the right one in for the amount of apple pulp you are using that time.

I installed a 1/4" thick steel plate at my upper bar member for the jack to push against. it's 4"x8" and it's overkill. The jack will of course chew up the wood underneath. You have to account for this.

it won't chew up the wood that much if you use white oak. barely notice it at all if you use dogwood, but you would need a home mill or a chainsaw attachment as well as a pretty good sized chunk of dogwood to make that happen.