Converting the Frigidaire 7.2 cu ft Chest Freezer

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Still working on mine - but this is pretty much what it's gonna look like...

IMG_2792.jpg


Thanks for all of the inspirations in this thread and others! :mug:
 
I realize some time has gone by jonodon, but did you paint the gasket, or did you purchase a new one? I'm just about to start a similar project to yours with a white chest freezer. I can only hope mine will look half as good as yours!
 
I'd like to know the answer as well. I need to purchase a new gasket as well as it's not sealing correctly. I would like to know where to get one or how to modify it so it does fit correctly. My freezer is white also but has a bunch of dents in it. I want to bondo it, sand it, and paint it black. Only think holding me back is the white gaskets. I'd like to know how you painted the gasket if you did. Seams to me, nothing would stick to it.
 
I attempted to turn my 7.2 into a keezer this weekend. It is functional, but I can't open the lid without rooming the tap handle. (Dogfish Head tap Handle)

Guess I'll have to rebuild, but im not sure what to do different. Anyone have the measurements of the sections of wood you used to build the collar?
 
I attempted to turn my 7.2 into a keezer this weekend. It is functional, but I can't open the lid without rooming the tap handle. (Dogfish Head tap Handle)

Guess I'll have to rebuild, but im not sure what to do different. Anyone have the measurements of the sections of wood you used to build the collar?
 
KCBigDog said:
I attempted to turn my 7.2 into a keezer this weekend. It is functional, but I can't open the lid without rooming the tap handle. (Dogfish Head tap Handle)

Guess I'll have to rebuild, but im not sure what to do different. Anyone have the measurements of the sections of wood you used to build the collar?
Click to expand...

If I understand your issue, the lid is bumping the handles (which are leanding backwards) when you lift it ... if that's the case, it seems like you could just put a spacer board behind the faucets to bring them farther forward ... if you have 5" shanks, you should have plenty of shank to do that ...

To explain my idea better, you would remove the faucets, drill out a 1x3 or 1x4 (or whatever you want, perhaps 2x if required) so that the holes match the existing holes in the collar, and then fasten the spacer board to the collar with the holes aligned ... then reinstall the faucets ... of course, I left out the details, such as staining the board, perhaps beveling the edges, etc., but you get the idea ...

But in any case, I'd go with a different tap handle before I'd rebuild my collar! ;)

Good luck!
 
2puttbird said:
If I understand your issue, the lid is bumping the handles (which are leanding backwards) when you lift it ... if that's the case, it seems like you could just put a spacer board behind the faucets to bring them farther forward ... if you have 5" shanks, you should have plenty of shank to do that ...

To explain my idea better, you would remove the faucets, drill out a 1x3 or 1x4 (or whatever you want, perhaps 2x if required) so that the holes match the existing holes in the collar, and then fasten the spacer board to the collar with the holes aligned ... then reinstall the faucets ... of course, I left out the details, such as staining the board, perhaps beveling the edges, etc., but you get the idea ...

But in any case, I'd go with a different tap handle before I'd rebuild my collar! ;)

Good luck!
Click to expand...

That's what I was thinking. I could use a 1" shim that should correct the issue. For now, it works. I might re-build or I might Maguiver it.
 
Can't you just buy the metal attachment that goes on each faucet to angle it away from the lid? or whatever it is?
 
Catt22 said:
I thought you said that you use a Love controller (or Ranco or Johnson) and that they had a built in default delay, so it should be easy for you to check.
Click to expand...

I did get around to it, and it turns out I goofed. The power-on delay is the same as the minimum off time in the Love controller. It always starts with this delay when you plug it in.

The first link is completely irrelevant to our discussion. That link lists some high tech $16,000 freezers. Who the hell owns one of those anyway?
Click to expand...

Remember I said that only larger units have this delay. It should not be surprising then that this larger unit, and the other ones I linked to, has it.

I first came across this power-on delay during my career in HVAC in the early- to mid-80s. I am guilty of jumping to a foregone conclusion about the Love controller, but at least I knew about this delay and it does exist in larger units, required or not.
 
Quaffer said:
I did get around to it, and it turns out I goofed. The power-on delay is the same as the minimum off time in the Love controller. It always starts with this delay when you plug it in.



Remember I said that only larger units have this delay. It should not be surprising then that this larger unit, and the other ones I linked to, has it.
Click to expand...

I've worked with these Mars;http://www.patriot-supply.com/products/showitem.cfm/MARS_32391
for years on supermarket remodels on the cold sections.
 
Quaffer said:
I did get around to it, and it turns out I goofed. The power-on delay is the same as the minimum off time in the Love controller. It always starts with this delay when you plug it in.

Except that with the parameters at defult settings there is no delay when you plug in the Love or Johnson controllers. You claimed that there built in, unalterable delay mandated by some unidentified regulation.

Remember I said that only larger units have this delay. It should not be surprising then that this larger unit, and the other ones I linked to, has it.

I think we were discussing temperature controllers, not commercial freezers. Specifically the Ranco, Love and Johnson controllers commonly used by home brewers and whether or not they had a built in, non-adjustable delay when subjected to a power interruption of any kind. Those commercial freezers have no relevance to the discussion.

I first came across this power-on delay during my career in HVAC in the early- to mid-80s. I am guilty of jumping to a foregone conclusion about the Love controller, but at least I knew about this delay and it does exist in larger units, required or not.
Click to expand...

I'm sure that nearly all modern, high end refrigeration equipment is equipped with many adjustable parameters just as the Love's etc do. They probably also have some fixed parameters, but again, so what? I suppose if you google long and hard enough you can find just about anything.
 
After you caulked the inside of your collar, did you have a problem with it smelling for a while? Everytime I open the lid it has a strong smell of silicone. Since i just built this keezer I only have 1 keg in it and I used the space to store some food for the time being in ziplock bags. I had some left over pizza in there and then the one day I heated up that pizza and ate some of it. The pizza tasted just like how the keezer smells when you open the lid. Just wanted to give you guys a heads up if your keezer still smells, don't store anything in it.

Now that i have a keg in, can I take the keg off the co2 and let it sit in room temp while I shut off the keezer and keep the lid open so i can let it vent? Will I have any problems with my beer such as loss of carbination?
 
pola0502ds said:
After you caulked the inside of your collar, did you have a problem with it smelling for a while? Everytime I open the lid it has a strong smell of silicone. Since i just built this keezer I only have 1 keg in it and I used the space to store some food for the time being in ziplock bags. I had some left over pizza in there and then the one day I heated up that pizza and ate some of it. The pizza tasted just like how the keezer smells when you open the lid. Just wanted to give you guys a heads up if your keezer still smells, don't store anything in it.

Now that i have a keg in, can I take the keg off the co2 and let it sit in room temp while I shut off the keezer and keep the lid open so i can let it vent? Will I have any problems with my beer such as loss of carbination?
Click to expand...

Yeah, man smelled like the silicone for about a week or so. It's good now.
 
pola0502ds said:
After you caulked the inside of your collar, did you have a problem with it smelling for a while? Everytime I open the lid it has a strong smell of silicone. Since i just built this keezer I only have 1 keg in it and I used the space to store some food for the time being in ziplock bags. I had some left over pizza in there and then the one day I heated up that pizza and ate some of it. The pizza tasted just like how the keezer smells when you open the lid. Just wanted to give you guys a heads up if your keezer still smells, don't store anything in it.

Now that i have a keg in, can I take the keg off the co2 and let it sit in room temp while I shut off the keezer and keep the lid open so i can let it vent? Will I have any problems with my beer such as loss of carbination?
Click to expand...

I remember a smell, but I thought it was the polyurethane and/or the stain. Could have been the caulking I suppose, but it was more like paint thinner.

I don't see a problem with letting the beer warm up for a while. Perhaps it will not keep as long, but usually that is not a problem. The pressure will increase in the keg when warm, but it will go back to normal again once you chill it.
 
Will be diving into the same project with the same chest freezer in the next week or so. All the parts ordered. Just waiting now.
 
Heres my finished keezer using the same freezer. Can't wait to put more beer in it

image-438421164.jpg
 
All of these builds are amazing! I am looking forward to starting mine in the next few weeks.

I've been having a terrible time getting a freezer that is not dented to hell from Lowes... the third one is on order, and I am hoping that it will be the charm. Luckily I have been able to talk them into 25% off and a new freezer.

I am wondering what people are using to mount their caster wheels (if being used) to the frame. I bought some scrap steel metal that I plan on making some mounting brackets from. The side of the frame that houses the compressor is open, and I am thinking some nuts/bolts/washers will be effective. For the side that isn't open I am thinking about using some sheet metal screws, but am a bit concerned about drilling too far into the freezer.

Any insight into the types and sizes of screws or bolts that people have used would be helpful!

Looking forward to posting some pics once the build commences! CHEERS!
 
Just bought my Frigidaire 7.2 black freezer today, Then ordered my conversion kit from kegconnection. 3-7 days I will have everything I need on hand and you guys should see some finished pictures from me. Thank you soooooooo much Quaffer for the guidance and inspiration!!!

Honestly this single "thank you" post does nothing to show my appreciation for what you've done for the keezer community but I hope that it communicates how much you have helped me through the process.

I will post pictures of my finished project.
 
I talked about this before in this thread but since I used silicone to seal the inside of the collar, the inside of the freezer smells just like silicone. It was really bad at first, so after I kicked my first keg i turned it off and opened the lid for a couple weeks. Then I shut the lid for a week and just opened it this morning. Before I shut the lid the first time, I really couldn't smell anything, now when i opened it up this morning it smells REALLY bad. Does anyone know of anything that can take this smell away?
 
BiteSize said:
All of these builds are amazing! I am looking forward to starting mine in the next few weeks.

I've been having a terrible time getting a freezer that is not dented to hell from Lowes... the third one is on order, and I am hoping that it will be the charm. Luckily I have been able to talk them into 25% off and a new freezer.

I am wondering what people are using to mount their caster wheels (if being used) to the frame. I bought some scrap steel metal that I plan on making some mounting brackets from. The side of the frame that houses the compressor is open, and I am thinking some nuts/bolts/washers will be effective. For the side that isn't open I am thinking about using some sheet metal screws, but am a bit concerned about drilling too far into the freezer.

Any insight into the types and sizes of screws or bolts that people have used would be helpful!

Looking forward to posting some pics once the build commences! CHEERS!
Click to expand...


I built a frame. You can click on my link to see pictures.
 
pola0502ds said:
I talked about this before in this thread but since I used silicone to seal the inside of the collar, the inside of the freezer smells just like silicone. It was really bad at first, so after I kicked my first keg i turned it off and opened the lid for a couple weeks. Then I shut the lid for a week and just opened it this morning. Before I shut the lid the first time, I really couldn't smell anything, now when i opened it up this morning it smells REALLY bad. Does anyone know of anything that can take this smell away?
Click to expand...

Mine smells like glue and silicon too. Figured it would fade. Maybe not, eh. Don't this it's too big a deal. It's not going to get into your sealed up beer

I must say this freezer is kind of cheap. Be gentle when screwing into it and don't over tighten your screws. I ended up using construction adhesive and 8 brackets to secure the collar
 
Silicone does really smell bad while it's curing. Don't worry about it; the odor will go away.

Also, yes, these freezers are VERY susceptible to dents. Mine has a couple little dings and I have no idea where they came from.
 
flabyboy said:
Mine smells like glue and silicon too. Figured it would fade. Maybe not, eh. Don't this it's too big a deal. It's not going to get into your sealed up beer

I must say this freezer is kind of cheap. Be gentle when screwing into it and don't over tighten your screws. I ended up using construction adhesive and 8 brackets to secure the collar
Click to expand...

I kinda did the same. I used a triangle bracket in each corner. You place one of these brackets in the corner, screw it to the collar and then there is a gusset you place a screw through down into the freezer. Before i did that I used construction adhesive and then silicone to seal it to be sure it was sealed.
 
I do like the idea of a frame, I just don't wanna spend the money to buy more lumber. I have a piece of poplar for the collar that was $58 for a 2x8x10. I guess I could price the 1x8x10 poplar but I imagine that it will still be at least 25-30.
 
BiteSize said:
I do like the idea of a frame, I just don't wanna spend the money to buy more lumber. I have a piece of poplar for the collar that was $58 for a 2x8x10. I guess I could price the 1x8x10 poplar but I imagine that it will still be at least 25-30.
Click to expand...


That sounds like way too much $$. You can build a frame from 2x4's which are about $2-$3 each. You probably would not need more than two. Then you could wrap the frame in poplar or whatever wood you choose, but 6" would definitely be more than wide enough. If you didn't care about exposing the casters, then it would be even less wide.
 
Pieceman said:
Just bought my Frigidaire 7.2 black freezer today, Then ordered my conversion kit from kegconnection. 3-7 days I will have everything I need on hand and you guys should see some finished pictures from me. Thank you soooooooo much Quaffer for the guidance and inspiration!!!

Honestly this single "thank you" post does nothing to show my appreciation for what you've done for the keezer community but I hope that it communicates how much you have helped me through the process.

I will post pictures of my finished project.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the kind words. I'd love to see pictures, please post.
 
BiteSize said:
I am wondering what people are using to mount their caster wheels (if being used) to the frame. I bought some scrap steel metal that I plan on making some mounting brackets from. The side of the frame that houses the compressor is open, and I am thinking some nuts/bolts/washers will be effective. For the side that isn't open I am thinking about using some sheet metal screws, but am a bit concerned about drilling too far into the freezer.

Any insight into the types and sizes of screws or bolts that people have used would be helpful!

Looking forward to posting some pics once the build commences! CHEERS!
Click to expand...

I used one-inch long sheet metal screws, sandwiching a strong piece of metal between the caster and the freezer. My screws had a rubber washer on them, I suppose for exterior use.

The corner should be reasonably safe to drill into. I first made a small hole as shallow as I could. Then I poked a small screwdriver into the foam to make sure there was no refrigerant line in there.
 
anyone have any slick/sharp ideas for the drip tray. I bought the 19" bar products one like many of us have and the double sided hardcore tape held up for several weeks, but as of last night let the drip tray drop. I'd like something more studier in design using the same drip tray, but also realize that drilling into the freezer walls just ain't gonna fly either..... any ideas would be appreciated. Anyone have luck with those hardcore earth magnets and if so where did you get them?
 
Similar thing happened to me, although it just kept sagging overtime and I pulled it off. I'm going to use a construction adhesive - like liquid nails - and clamp it to dry.
 
duckmanco said:
anyone have any slick/sharp ideas for the drip tray. I bought the 19" bar products one like many of us have and the double sided hardcore tape held up for several weeks, but as of last night let the drip tray drop. I'd like something more studier in design using the same drip tray, but also realize that drilling into the freezer walls just ain't gonna fly either..... any ideas would be appreciated. Anyone have luck with those hardcore earth magnets and if so where did you get them?
Click to expand...

bourgeoisbee said:
Similar thing happened to me, although it just kept sagging overtime and I pulled it off. I'm going to use a construction adhesive - like liquid nails - and clamp it to dry.
Click to expand...

Really? Did you guys use angle brackets for supports? Did you use Scotch's exterior mounting tape? My tray is still exactly where I put it with that tape. Something is different. I think I did not load the tray much the first few days, perhaps it sets better over time.
 
Quaffer said:
Really? Did you guys use angle brackets for supports? Did you use Scotch's exterior mounting tape? My tray is still exactly where I put it with that tape. Something is different. I think I did not load the tray much the first few days, perhaps it sets better over time.
Click to expand...

Yup, used scotch exterior mounting tape and two angle brackets... Seemed real solid for a few weeks, and now and I can't get them to stay on... I'm thinking I may put one of those long thin bar mats on the floor as a drip tray, which I don't want to do for several reasons.... Anyone recommend a good epoxy that might work?
 
duckmanco said:
anyone have any slick/sharp ideas for the drip tray.
Click to expand...

5867993830_bae54c8c0b_z.jpg


5867994012_839a0cff78_z.jpg


5867438637_aff7d47b55_z.jpg


I just roughed up the paint on the freezer with some coarse sandpaper and glued the 2 X 3 to it. The 2 x 3 moves the drip tray out slighty so it's more directly under the faucets. The drip tray itself hangs from two small SS screws in the wood bar. I used Loctite Grabber as the adhesive. Good stuff!
 

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