Too much sediment/problem with hops :(

I have a 5 gallon batch of Double IPA in my fermenter right now, which I added 2 oz of Cascade hops to. Being a total novice to brewing, I think I made two serious mistakes:

1. Given that this was my first batch, I wasn't sure exactly how to do the boil of the wort. I had the wort on the stove very hot but not actually boiling for most of what I had considered "the boil" (I didn't realize it was supposed to be a rolling boil). So anyways, I am not sure that the hop bitterness was ever imparted from the pellets.

2. Before adding it to the fermenter, I didn't strain the wort so now I have tons of sediment (I assume it's yeast and hop pellets??) in my beer.

Right now I am only using a single fermenter and it has been fermenting for about 8 days and it seems like fermentation is almost complete, although I was thinking of letting it go for another 4-5 days. It had a starting gravity of 1.104 and it's now down to 1.021, but my hydrometer tube was just full of the sediment when I just checked it. Is there anything I can do at this point to remove the sediment? Is there a way to strain it before bottling or should I get another fermenter then strain it before transferring it to the secondary? Am I just screwed?

Also, are the hops actually boiling for so little time going to turn my beer to crap? Is is too late to get the bitterness into it?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

If I am understanding what you are saying, you added the hops at the end just before putting them into the primary. You are not going to have a very hoppy flavored beer, but might have a nice aroma for the dry-hopping. I would dry hop a bit more in secondary, just to give you some more aroma. Even though it won't actually affect the flavor much, it'll give you the sense that their are more hops in it.

As far as clearing up your beer, let it settle out in primary. Get some sort of mesh bag to put over the end of your racking tube (Paint strainers from a building supply store, or mesh bag from your LHBS). Strain your beer when you rack to secondary, then do the same thing when transferring to your bottling bucket. That should clear it up a bit.

I'd still proceed with this beer, because in the end it might be a decent drinkable beer, even if it wasn't what you were going for.

If you want some free reading to help you out on technique try the free online book How to Brew.

Good Luck.

I added the hops about 15 minutes before putting them into the primary, but the wort was only in a full rolling boil for about 2-3 minutes. For the first 12 minutes it was heating up to the full boil. I just didn't know if "really, really hot water" brings out the bitterness of the hops

I think I will take your advice for straining it. Now I need to go get a secondary fermenter to transfer it to.

Do you guys think I should let it sit in the primary for 2 full weeks due to the high OG?

I think what you are saying is you added the bittering hops at the beginning of your "boil", only it was only actually boiling for a comparatively short time. You are definitely not going to get the same kind of hop utilization that you would from a vigorous boil, but there will still be a present bitterness. A good rolling boil helps hop utilization, wort sterilization, creates a hot break,and evaporates a percentage of your original boil. Its probably a good idea to try to get a better boil going for the next batch.

I'm a little curious about your recipe, I dont know how much extract you used, but 1.104 seems pretty high for you original SG. If those calculations are right, your beer is at around 11% ABV right now. If that is the case, AWESOME! but i'd check your reading technique. Remember that you will need to adjust your hydrometer readings for temperature if the wort/beer is above or below 60 degrees

Also, for a batch like that 2oz of cascade hops probably is not enough. I think taking a look at the How To Brew Link above will help you sort out a couple kinks.

As far as the yeast and hops in your beer, that is definitely going to happen. Try not to mess with your fermenter too much and let everything settle out. When you rack to a secondary fermenter you can attack a piece of sanitized steel wool to your racking crane and that will filter out some of the hops that are not naturally left behind in the primary.

I'm sure your beer is going to come out very drinkable and will only get you more excited about brewing. Theres always room for improvement but that doesnt mean you wont be rewarded for your effort!

It's definately not going to be a Double IPA in the end. That is definately a high OG, and this beer will probably take longer than normal to finish up.

NateKerx said:

I think what you are saying is you added the bittering hops at the beginning of your "boil", only it was only actually boiling for a comparatively short time. You are definitely not going to get the same kind of hop utilization that you would from a vigorous boil, but there will still be a present bitterness. A good rolling boil helps hop utilization, wort sterilization, creates a hot break,and evaporates a percentage of your original boil. Its probably a good idea to try to get a better boil going for the next batch.

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That's exactly what I did. I admit, I got a little overzealous with beginning to brew and should have researched it quite a bit more before getting started. I won't make the same mistakes next time

NateKerx said:

I'm a little curious about your recipe, I dont know how much extract you used, but 1.104 seems pretty high for you original SG. If those calculations are right, your beer is at around 11% ABV right now. If that is the case, AWESOME! but i'd check your reading technique. Remember that you will need to adjust your hydrometer readings for temperature if the wort/beer is above or below 60 degrees

Also, for a batch like that 2oz of cascade hops probably is not enough. I think taking a look at the How To Brew Link above will help you sort out a couple kinks.

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I'm somewhat embarrased to say that my "recipe" was actually just two Cooper's hopped malt extract IPA kits, 2 lbs of LME, and I doubled the dextrose. This was pretty much my first batch so I went with the easy kits and thought I would just double it up. In retrospect, it probably wasn't the best idea but I am definitely learning some things. So the kits were already hopped which is why I only added the 2 additional oz of Cascade hops

McKBrew said:

It's definately not going to be a Double IPA in the end. That is definately a high OG, and this beer will probably take longer than normal to finish up.

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How long would you expect it should take in the primary and secondary fermenters? And how long should the condition in the bottles?

By the way, if anyone wants to help me with another problem please visit my other thread!

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=41550

I would just about kill for the opportunity to learn from some brewmasters!

fightguy said:

How long would you expect it should take in the primary and secondary fermenters? And how long should the condition in the bottles?

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I'm sure someone more experienced than me will be along to advise in a bit, but I think the usual recommendation is 1-2-3 - one week in primary, two in secondary, and three in bottles. With a higher than usual OG, it wouldn't hurt to leave it a little longer in primary. As far as I can tell, it's advisable to rack to secondary only after the initial fermentation has finished, so the exact timetable should be determined by the hydrometer reading.

McKBrew said:

...As far as clearing up your beer, let it settle out in primary. Get some sort of mesh bag to put over the end of your racking tube (Paint strainers from a building supply store, or mesh bag from your LHBS). Strain your beer when you rack to secondary, then do the same thing when transferring to your bottling bucket. That should clear it up a bit.

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Like this...1-gallon paint strainers from Lowes. Use some small zip ties to secure. you may need to remove and rinse a couple of times to prevent clogging.: