Witbier Austin Homebrew's Belgian White Beer

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h22lude said:
Great thanks. I will give 400 a try.

Did you ferment this in the higher 60s to get rid if the sulfur smell (that I've read about) or did you ferment in the low 60s and kept it in primary a little longer?

According to White Labs, WLP400 functions best from 67-74.

I keep the temp definitely below 70 during the ramp up and rapid growth phase over the first 2-3 days. 67 works great and I target that. You might not have precise fermentation temperature control. If you don't, your biggest goal is to stay below 70 during the first phase.

After the aggressive phase slows, I let the temp run as high as it wants to, typically into the mid-70's and it's even hit 80 in the summer. This is often coincident with rousing the yeast. This temp run is to encourage full attenuation.

By using a starter and employing this fermentation strategy, I've always achieved attenuation at the high end of the range (range is 74-78, and I get 77-79%).

Finally, I only primary. I leave this beer in the carboy for typically 3 weeks and no less than 2 to ensure full attenuation and good flavor. After kegging and carbing it is ready to drink immediately.

Hope this helps.

Cheers
 
According to White Labs, WLP400 functions best from 67-74.

I keep the temp definitely below 70 during the ramp up and rapid growth phase over the first 2-3 days. 67 works great and I target that. You might not have precise fermentation temperature control. If you don't, your biggest goal is to stay below 70 during the first phase.

After the aggressive phase slows, I let the temp run as high as it wants to, typically into the mid-70's and it's even hit 80 in the summer. This is often coincident with rousing the yeast. This temp run is to encourage full attenuation.

By using a starter and employing this fermentation strategy, I've always achieved attenuation at the high end of the range (range is 74-78, and I get 77-79%).

Finally, I only primary. I leave this beer in the carboy for typically 3 weeks and no less than 2 to ensure full attenuation and good flavor. After kegging and carbing it is ready to drink immediately.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Awesome, thank you. I typically keep my buckets in my basement which keeps the beer between 62 and 65 during the first aggressive fermentation stage. I don't yet have anything to keep my temp controlled but for now my basement will do.

I typically keep my ales in primary for 2 to 3 weeks. From reading, this yeast seems to take a little longer so I will probably keep it 3 weeks.
 
I'm brewing this weekend but can't get over the 30 min boil.

How does this not turn the beer into a DMS mess?

I'm contemplating being Dave and boiling 60 or 90min.
 
I'm brewing this weekend but can't get over the 30 min boil.

How does this not turn the beer into a DMS mess?

I'm contemplating being Dave and boiling 60 or 90min.

There are other ways to remove DMS other than boiling for 60 to 90 minutes. A very vigorous boil (of any length), quick cooling and vigorous fermentation all remove DMS at varying degrees.

AHS is a well known homebrew store. This kit has been selling for many years with all great reviews. Forrest has even posted in this thread that the 30 minutes is done on purpose.

You never know, maybe the secret ingredient in this successful recipe is the corn flavor from a little DMS :)
 
Thanks for the reply. I'll do a 30 I've read through all posts but didn't see much detail on this.

I think I'll just boil a little more vigorously.
 
I'm about to brew this in 30 minutes. I put the recipe in Beer Smith and it says my OG is 1.054 but the AHS instructions says 1.048. Why the 6 GU difference? Should I follow Beer Smith or the instructions?

We are also brewing the AHS Blue Moon clone and Beer Smith hit the OG exactly with the AHS instructions.
 
My boil was almost 90 minutes because I had too much wort and wanted to boil it off and the beer tastes great, the only thing I would change is I will add 20-40% more orange peel next time. That is not to say that a 30 minute boil would be bad I am just saying the beer will taste good with a 90 minute boil too.
 
I boiled mine for probably 45 minutes.

I actually went with WLP380 Hefe IV. My LHBS owner said he has brewed many Belgian Whites with a range of different White Labs yeasts and he said this one comes out very close to Allagash White with the clove and phenol aroma. Not really banana which is good.

I made a starter and fermentation took off immediately at 64 - 65. I'm trying to keep it a little under the 66 - 70 range they recommend so ester production isn't as high.
 
Here's Mine

IMAG0209.jpg
 
Now I've read through this whole thing and still don't understand what's going on with the mash/sparge. The recipe would seem to indicate a no sparge because at 4 gallons mash in and 3 gallons mash out...well there's no room for a sparge.

For you guys who have brewed this a few time did you stick to a normal mash sparge schedule, or did you do it exactly as outlined in the original post?
 
i did everything exact as the first post and this came out fantastic. it tastes identical to hoegarden. great recipe
 
I brewed two 6 gallon batches of this recipe. The first batch was kegged last Monday and we nearly kicked the keg Friday at work... everyone loved it!

Definitely a new favorite of mine... not changing anything.

Belgian White 006.jpg
 
Just brewed this sunday but added the spices at 5 minutes dang it - will this make the flavor more mellow?
 
Why is there so much talk about a 30 min boil? The recipe on the first page of this thread says 50 minutes at the top with hop additions at 30 minutes and 5 minutes.

Also my HBS is stupid and didn't have Cascade so I used what I had at home, some EK Goldings.

4 gallon mash with 3 gallon sparge BIAB worked out well, lost a gallon to grain and one to boil.

I'd love to do things by the book but sometimes you make do with what you have. LHBS didn't have White labs 400 for that week and completely ran out of belgian pilsner as well so I substituted Wyeast Beligain wit and German Pilsner malt.

Currently bubbling away like mad. Made sure to use a blow off tube instead of an airlock this time. Wheat beers are the only ones I've had to do this with.
 
I'd like to try this as my first beginner BIAB. From what I gather there doesn't need to be a sparge or mash out if everything is in one pot, so would I just mash 7 gallons of water instead of 4 initially to 10.25 lb of grain for 60 min at 152, and boil for 50 and it should reduce down to approx 5.5 wort ?
 
Richfei,
I brew BIAB and most of my recipes call for 10-14 lbs of grain. The thing you are not accounting for is the water loss from grain absorbtion which will be on the order of 1.25 gal. Also, my boil off percentage is generally over 20%. Bottom Line, in a 15gal kettle, I mash in 9 gallons of water to end up with 5.5 to 6 gal. into the first fermenter.
One more thing, for all you BIAB folks out there, go to www.biabrewer.info
You will find an excellent FREE spreadsheet that will be a big help in your biab efforts
 
Can u sub american 2 row or Marris otter in place of the Belgian 2 row? Or will it be a completely different beer?
 
I have compared them side by side, and I haven't tried many Belgian wits, but my friend does and loves the style. I brewed mine with Canadian 2-row since I buy it by the sack. My friend loved it and said "It was spot on." Just my experience so far.
 
Can u sub american 2 row or Marris otter in place of the Belgian 2 row? Or will it be a completely different beer?

I have made this recipe several times now. Ten gallons carbing as we speak. I would be more comfortable subbing the american 2-row. I'm not very familiar with how marris otter tastes. However, the yeast, orange peel, and coriander are such prominent flavors that I don't feel exact origin of base grains is the most important input for this recipe to taste as intended. I myself use belgian pilsner
 
One last question before I get in on this. I am going to attempt a 10 gallon batch of this recipe. I usually only make 5 gallon batches and make starters for the liquid yeast. Is it stupid to try to step up a single vial of yeast to split and then pitch into 2 different carboys? Or should I just buy 2 vials and start that way? I am thinking that if I start off with a 1L starter and then step it up to a 2L starter I might just make enough yeast to be safe, considering the low O.G. of this brew. I'd love to be able to save $7 on the batch!!
 
One last question before I get in on this. I am going to attempt a 10 gallon batch of this recipe. I usually only make 5 gallon batches and make starters for the liquid yeast. Is it stupid to try to step up a single vial of yeast to split and then pitch into 2 different carboys? Or should I just buy 2 vials and start that way? I am thinking that if I start off with a 1L starter and then step it up to a 2L starter I might just make enough yeast to be safe, considering the low O.G. of this brew. I'd love to be able to save $7 on the batch!!

I don't think you'll have a problem with that.
 
I replicated this beer exactely-or so I thought. As I poured my grain in I realized I used flaked oats rather than flaked wheat. Doet! What do you guys think, will this beer be greatly different?
 
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