Keg conversion question

ok so I've pretty much settled on this keg conversion kit.

http://stores.kegconnection.com/Detail.bok?no=336

Has everything I need im pretty sure, I like this because it comes with two kegs and I could use one for a secondary fermentor, unless somebody knows of a cheaper system with everything included here i think im set.

my question is I want to be able to run a keg of my favorite Micro Brewery on one of the taps. I know i have to get a "D" coupler. Just one correct? any additional parts that i would need other than the sixtel keg from the brewery? thanks in advance for your responses!

Just to check. Are you going to get the kit listed with the faucets and shanks and install them somewhere? Keezer build, or an old refridgerator that you're drilling through for example? Otherwise, if you're waiting to build, forgo the faucets and use picnic taps early on. (50 dollar difference if it mattered).

And you'll probably want longer beer line than the 5 feet they offer (just email them when you order and ask, they're pretty good about order changes). (or one of those epoxy mixer inserts into the dip tube)

wow good find...yea i have the freezer and at this moment don't want to do any drilling so this will save me a little bit of money. Any info about the D coupler question? If i wanna run a sixtel on one taps do I need to buy one or two couplers? also what size line would you recommend?

That is the same setup I bought last year. Keg connection is great about customizing orders, give them a call and they will modify the kit with the couplers that you need. If it was me I would add a sanke coupler http://stores.kegconnection.com/Detail.bok?no=64 to the order so that you could switch between commercial and corny kegs. All of their lines have threaded connections so changeover is easy.

I would also go ahead and upgrade to the Perlick 525SS' now. They are only $25 each and are so much better that the faucets that come with the kit.

If your're not going to do any drilling (through a wood collar for the faucets) then you won't need to worry about either faucets or perlicks. Many of us use picnic taps (just make sure they don't get stuck in the open position when you put them back into the keezer.

But right, at the point you do get the wood collar and are going to install faucets, perlics tend to be recommneded since they get stuck less. Normal faucets need more constant use not to stick.

There are some keg balancing things out on the forum somewhere (couldn't locate it offhand) and some links involving psi, line length, height and so on, but estimate a standard 3/16th beer line as having a resistance of 2psi per foot. So if your beer is going to be around 20psi in the keg, you'd want 10 feet of line or something similar. It's better to get longer line (probably around 15 feet each) because you can cut it down, and it's less than a dollar per foot.

You only need one Sanke coupler assuming only one sixtel on tap at a time.
Buy the coupler and the conversion package - this changes the coupler's standard barb tailpieces to flare connections. Then you can screw your gas and beer lines to either your sanke or ball lock connections.
Just give them a call and they will hook you up w/ what you need - I've worked with them more than once and they will make it right.
I also recommend about 10 feet of beer line - you can always cut it down a foot at a time if you think the pour is too slow and you don't have foaming issues.

thanks guys for all your help, one more question. Do i need to get a longer gas line also or would the one that comes with the kit be fine?