More Precise Valve?

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Cpt_Kirks

Cpt_Kirks

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I use a standard ball valve on the output of my wort chugger pump. This allows me to control the flow from the BK to my plate chiller. By reducing/increasing the flow, I can alter the temperature of the cooled wort going into the fermenter.

Problem is, the ball valve control is too coarse. It is VERY hard to fine tune the temperature, a slight movement of the handle results in a large swing in the output temperature.

Are there reasonably priced valves that have more precise flow control?

:confused:

DSCN0121.jpg
 
There are valve but they are not cheap, go to Mcmaster Carr's website and look up needle valves you will want stainless or brass and the right NPT.
 
You can also control the output temp by varying the flow rate of the input cooling water.
 
For my pumps, I use brass Gate valves from Home Depot. They're not stainless but you get precise control.
(I tried to post a link, but it wouldn't work.)
 
I've had no issue with the stainless 3 piece (full bore) 1/2" ball valves like those found at Bargain Fittings, Brew Hardware, Brewer's Hardware, and other sites. It's smooth enough that you can control it from closed to wide open and anywhere in between. They do have 'stops' at half open, but you just pull the release piece (on the handle) and you can adjust it as you wish. I do that, typically, when I'm draining my mash tun so that the sparge water flow-in rate is matched by the mash wort flow-out rate.
 
RoadKing said:
For my pumps, I use brass Gate valves from Home Depot. They're not stainless but you get precise control.
(I tried to post a link, but it wouldn't work.)
Click to expand...

Do they look like the valves in the picture above? Those came from Lowe's, but are probably the same thing.
 
Golddiggie said:
I've had no issue with the stainless 3 piece (full bore) 1/2" ball valves like those found at Bargain Fittings, Brew Hardware, Brewer's Hardware, and other sites. It's smooth enough that you can control it from closed to wide open and anywhere in between. They do have 'stops' at half open, but you just pull the release piece (on the handle) and you can adjust it as you wish. I do that, typically, when I'm draining my mash tun so that the sparge water flow-in rate is matched by the mash wort flow-out rate.
Click to expand...

So, the three piece SS valves are more precise than the brass valves? I wondered about that.

Another option I dreamed up was two separate valves, one on the pump outlet, and one on the plate chiller inlet. I wonder if the combination of two valves would give better flow control?
 
I still can't get link to work! You can see them on my rig if you click my profile.
Gate valves are way more precise because a ball valve takes 1/4 turn from closed to open, where a gate valve will take several turns.
On the Home Depot site they are the.... Mueller Global 1/2 in. Brass FPT Gate Valve and are $6.77.
 
RoadKing said:
I still can't get link to work! You can see them on my rig if you click my profile.
Gate valves are way more precise because a ball valve takes 1/4 turn from closed to open, where a gate valve will take several turns.
On the Home Depot site they are the.... Mueller Global 1/2 in. Brass FPT Gate Valve and are $6.77.
Click to expand...

No, I'm using the Mueller ball valves. Are gate valves sanitary?

That might be an option.

FYI, I used to work for Mueller. I've probably been in the plant those valves were made in.
 
Cpt_Kirks said:
So, the three piece SS valves are more precise than the brass valves? I wondered about that.

Another option I dreamed up was two separate valves, one on the pump outlet, and one on the plate chiller inlet. I wonder if the combination of two valves would give better flow control?
Click to expand...

I have no issue controlling the flow with my ball valves. It doesn't take long to get a feeling for how you should have them in order to get the flow you want.

I wouldn't put the other valve on the chiller inlet, but rather on the outlet. I have a valve assembly on my plate chiller outlet. It has a camlock QD (female) fitting, 90 degree elbow, a pair of 'T' fittings, two ball valves and a 1/2" NPT to 1/4" compression fitting. The two 'T' fittings each go to ball valves (next to each other) so that I can connect one to my recirculation fitting and the other to the fermenting vessel (hose through the opening). The NPT to compression fitting is where I have my thermometer sensor/probe, to get a solid reading once the wort has gone through the chiller. I also have a ball valve on the pump output side, to reduce the flow while the flame is still going. Once the fire is turned off, I can open it up all the way pretty quickly.

I'll take a picture of the chiller attachment setup and post it later.
 
Golddiggie said:
I have no issue controlling the flow with my ball valves. It doesn't take long to get a feeling for how you should have them in order to get the flow you want.

I wouldn't put the other valve on the chiller inlet, but rather on the outlet. I have a valve assembly on my plate chiller outlet. It has a camlock QD (female) fitting, 90 degree elbow, a pair of 'T' fittings, two ball valves and a 1/2" NPT to 1/4" compression fitting. The two 'T' fittings each go to ball valves (next to each other) so that I can connect one to my recirculation fitting and the other to the fermenting vessel (hose through the opening). The NPT to compression fitting is where I have my thermometer sensor/probe, to get a solid reading once the wort has gone through the chiller. I also have a ball valve on the pump output side, to reduce the flow while the flame is still going. Once the fire is turned off, I can open it up all the way pretty quickly.

I'll take a picture of the chiller attachment setup and post it later.
Click to expand...

Please do post a pic. That sounds interesting.
 
You don't need more precise control, you need a faster responding thermometer. The bimetals are slow so you over adjust the valve while you wait for the gauge to respond. Also, when in doubt, over chill it. There's nothing wrong with going 62F into the fermenter and letting it come up through the yeast exothermic reaction.
 
Bobby_M said:
You don't need more precise control, you need a faster responding thermometer. The bimetals are slow so you over adjust the valve while you wait for the gauge to respond. Also, when in doubt, over chill it. There's nothing wrong with going 62F into the fermenter and letting it come up through the yeast exothermic reaction.
Click to expand...

+1 on that... I use sensors (type K) connected to my Fluke 52II that respond more than fast enough. Plus, I don't need to worry about what my viewing angle is (can impact how you see the dial thermometers reading). It also allows me to have the reading without having to hover over the kettle/keggle or plate chiller.

I originally used the RebelSmart on my first plate chiller (dial thermometer on it) but it soon started to morph into what I have today. Hardest part is securing the QD's to what they connect to. Probably more to do with soaking in PBW to clean, rinsing well, and then not using any lube on the gaskets/o-rings. :eek: I do find them easier to use if I hit them with a bit of Star San solution first. :rockin:
 
RoadKing said:
I agree. The reason I use gate valves is to control fly sparges. They're way easier to control than ball valves.
Click to expand...

How fast can you go from wide open to fully closed??

Personally, I have zero issues controlling the flow from the ball valves in my system. I don't fly sparge, so I don't have to worry about that. While I can see a gate valve being useful in that case, I don't see ball valves really being much worse. IF the brewer knows how to control them. You can open it just a hair, or all the way to full open, to control the flow.

IMO/IME, it's really more a matter of learning your system and properly controlling things.
 

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