DIY Beer Line Cleaner

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Instead of using the bigger white seal that comes with sprayer can I use an o ring so I have increased flow?


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I built this today and am in love. I bought a non-Firestone liquid ball lock post and ended up needing two adapters (I didn't see the post about forcing threads before the purchase). I ended up having to combine the A-176 and A-155. The Home Depot folks may get confused by those numbers as the store we went to only had LFA-xxx; LFA simply stands for lead-free so they are exactly the same threads sizes, etc.

Thanks to the OP for putting this up!
 
I just made one of these from the instructions on the 1st Post -- and here's what happened.

My LHBS only stocks an AEB Liquid Keg Post and apparently, the threads are different. The A-176 adapter didn't fit.

The female end worked as advertised, however, the male end wouldn't thread into the AEB Keg Post I bought.

So, back I went to Home Depot and the plumbing guy there helped me find something that would work. Having the Keg Post with me helped (I hadn't bought it yet when I went the 1st time).

I got an LFA-117 part which is a 3/8" OD x 3/8" FIP Compression Adapter. It's more expensive and there will be left-over pieces, but it fits.

Tested and it works. :D There's a bit of leakage between the adapter and the keg post because it doesn't thread all the way on, but I'm hoping that hubby can tighten it up more since he's the one with the muscles in the family!!
 
Because A) someone always has a good answer on these threads, B) I like having the option of reusing things for other purposes without damaging them, and C) I'm anal and I like when things just work, is there an adapter that fits onto the black threads on the 56HD sprayer properly with 1/4 male flare on the other end? An earlier post said the threads on the black part of the sprayer are 5/8"-14, which I think are really odd coarse threads. I have a regular corny liquid post on one of those 19/32"-18 male to 1/4" flare adapters Anyone have a solution, or do I resort to jamming something onto the plastic threads?
 
I'm hoping someone can help. I have not been successful in making this. I've tried the LFA-176 from Menards, Home Depot, and Lowe's. I cannot get these to thread onto the Firestone post I have. It doesn't seem like the threads are the same.

Has anyone made one of these recently? Where did you get your parts?

Thanks
 
I'm hoping someone can help. I have not been successful in making this. I've tried the LFA-176 from Menards, Home Depot, and Lowe's. I cannot get these to thread onto the Firestone post I have. It doesn't seem like the threads are the same.

Has anyone made one of these recently? Where did you get your parts?

Thanks

Have you tried using more/less teflon tape? Also, are you positive you have a firestone post and not a different ball lock post?
 
I'm curious about this - I found a thread size chart at the Chi Company website - http://www.chicompany.net/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=376_1_3_260

It seems to indicate the Firestone liquid out is a 5/8"-18 thread, but the instructions here indicate otherwise (3/8"flare). What are people going with? I have some things ready to check out at KegConnection, but want to make sure I pick up the right part(s).
 
I could easily be wrong, but I think a "3/8" flare fitting actually has a 5/8 - 18 thread. It must be something like that because I've built a pair of these and the fitting and post seemed to thread together fairly well...

Cheers!

[edit] Here's a chart that seems to agree if you use the SAE 45-flare row.
http://brennaninc.com/documents/BrennanThreadChart.pdf
 
I could easily be wrong, but I think a "3/8" flare fitting actually has a 5/8 - 18 thread. It must be something like that because I've built a pair of these and the fitting and post seemed to thread together fairly well...

Cheers!

[edit] Here's a chart that seems to agree if you use the SAE 45-flare row.
http://brennaninc.com/documents/BrennanThreadChart.pdf

Thanks! Strange that it works out that way.
 
Just built mine yesterday. Got lucky and and had the correct liquid post on a spare parts keg I have. Works great
 
I just wrenched my post right on to the green plastic part. Then you dont need an adapter.
 
So I filled my first keg last night and I am already thinking of how to clean my lines before I fill it again.

I saw this post and I really want to build one of these. Just not sure the right size of keg posts. Does anyone know the exact size?

There are some pretty cheap ball lock posts on ebay I see. Probably not something I would actually use for a keg, but maybe good enough for a cleaner thing, as long as I got the correct size. Any input?

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=ball+lock+post&_sop=15
 
So I filled my first keg last night and I am already thinking of how to clean my lines before I fill it again.



I saw this post and I really want to build one of these. Just not sure the right size of keg posts. Does anyone know the exact size?



There are some pretty cheap ball lock posts on ebay I see. Probably not something I would actually use for a keg, but maybe good enough for a cleaner thing, as long as I got the correct size. Any input?



http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=ball+lock+post&_sop=15


It all depends on your keg. What type is your keg?
 
It all depends on your keg. What type is your keg?

Ball lock, but looking at the different options for posts, it seems there are a number of different sizes with respect to the threads (see the link above I posted). Anyone know which size is the right one for those pump bottles?
 
I didn't read all 55 pages, but I have to admit that I don't understand the point. Your keg goes empty. Give it a good rinse. Wash it out with whatever your fave cleaner is, hook it back up to the kegerator and run cleaner through the lines and taps. Unhook the keg. Rinse the keg and leave some clear water in there. Hook the keg back up and rinse the lines & taps with the water. Done.
 
I have six lines and don't like to waste co2, so if for no other reason it at least saves on co2. Having a dedicated system just for cleaning lines is a lot easier and this is a cost-effective way to have that.
 
If you want to fit the cleaner together as originally described, you'd want something compatible with the A-176/LFA-176 fitting, and the closest liquid tank post thread is the Firestone at 5/8"-18...

Cheers!
 
I didn't read all 55 pages, but I have to admit that I don't understand the point. Your keg goes empty. Give it a good rinse. Wash it out with whatever your fave cleaner is, hook it back up to the kegerator and run cleaner through the lines and taps. Unhook the keg. Rinse the keg and leave some clear water in there. Hook the keg back up and rinse the lines & taps with the water. Done.
That is good and if you see no point in this contraption then I would never expect you to read past the first post. However, I assure you that this thing has been wonderful for me. I don't have to fill up my keg with water and run liquid through it. My kegs aren't exactly easy to get in and out of the keezer, so once I kick one, I throw this thing on the line, run my liquid through it and leave star san in the line until I put another keg on. It just works well and it was less than $21 for me to construct. They charge much more for these things at my LHBS.


Ball lock, but looking at the different options for posts, it seems there are a number of different sizes with respect to the threads (see the link above I posted). Anyone know which size is the right one for those pump bottles?
I see. I purchased Keg Post Assembly Liquid Type A from Northern Brewer for $13.99. I ordered other stuff and they were doing free shipping when I ordered, so it worked. That's what I am using today.
 
Apologies if this has already been mentioned. (huge thread)

Carbonation/line cleaning caps are well worth checking out. They are basically just carbonator caps but with a barb on the inside for adding a dip tube.

To use it you just fill the bottle halfway with cleaning solution, pressurise it like you would with a carbonator cap, then switch it over to the beer line connector and run it through the line. They are compatible with both grey and black type ball lock disconnects.

On a side note, they also work really well for filling growlers under counter pressure. You just pressurise the bottle, hook up a line from the keg and gradually unscrew the cap to let gas out and beer in, with practically zero foam.

Probably the most useful $15 I've ever spent on equipment. :mug:
 
That is good and if you see no point in this contraption then I would never expect you to read past the first post. However, I assure you that this thing has been wonderful for me. I don't have to fill up my keg with water and run liquid through it. My kegs aren't exactly easy to get in and out of the keezer, so once I kick one, I throw this thing on the line, run my liquid through it and leave star san in the line until I put another keg on. It just works well and it was less than $21 for me to construct. They charge much more for these things at my LHBS.

To add on, I find this device easier to use for these reasons and the fact that I don't have to worry about sealing my keg up perfectly to push cleaner through. Some of my keg lids don't sit as well as others, so they require a little playing to seal tight. If I used one of those to pump cleaner through, I'd either have to spend a lot longer cleaning the line, or blow a bunch of C02 out through the gap between the lid and the lip.

Filling C02 is a PITA in my area (damn welding shops have worse hours than banks! M-F 9-4) so anything simple I can do to make a tank last longer is worth it in my book.
 
NickG is correct! Missed this when I made a line cleaner with plastic carb caps and a special DIY line to switch from gas connector to liquid line connector. This is awesome, simple, inexpensive and negates all the previous discussion on this thread in my opinion.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Stai...ft-drink-PET-bottles-Homebrew/1773876108.html

Demonstration (beer line cleaning at the end of the video):
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQg8Qb3OS7U[/ame]
 
NickG is correct! Missed this when I made a line cleaner with plastic carb caps and a special DIY line to switch from gas connector to liquid line connector. This is awesome, simple, inexpensive and negates all the previous discussion on this thread in my opinion.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Stai...ft-drink-PET-bottles-Homebrew/1773876108.html

That thing looks cool, although my system as it stands is a picnic tap to a ball lock keg with all barbed connections. So I am not sure this would work. That is why I thought the pump thing in this thread with a ball lock connector on it would be idea. Unless anyone else has any other ideas?
 
NickG is correct! Missed this when I made a line cleaner with plastic carb caps and a special DIY line to switch from gas connector to liquid line connector. This is awesome, simple, inexpensive and negates all the previous discussion on this thread in my opinion.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Stai...ft-drink-PET-bottles-Homebrew/1773876108.html

Demonstration (beer line cleaning at the end of the video):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQg8Qb3OS7U

Genius piece of gear for just $13, ordered one today
 
Apologies if this has already been mentioned. (huge thread)

Carbonation/line cleaning caps are well worth checking out. They are basically just carbonator caps but with a barb on the inside for adding a dip tube.

To use it you just fill the bottle halfway with cleaning solution, pressurise it like you would with a carbonator cap, then switch it over to the beer line connector and run it through the line. They are compatible with both grey and black type ball lock disconnects.

On a side note, they also work really well for filling growlers under counter pressure. You just pressurise the bottle, hook up a line from the keg and gradually unscrew the cap to let gas out and beer in, with practically zero foam.

Probably the most useful $15 I've ever spent on equipment. :mug:

Thanks for the heads up! Just watched the video glutarded-chris posted and ordered 3. So the thing fits a growler?
 
I've been running a two tap kegerator for a couple of years, using an empty keg to flush hot water and then sanitizer through my lines. But like many others, I hate to waste the CO2 to do that. I'm working on a five tap keezer build, and was looking for a way to initially clean the lines when I came across this post. Great idea- just what I was looking for!

I thought I'd add my two cents worth - I only browsed through the 56 pages of this post, so apologies if this has been covered. I have pin lock kegs, which from the posts I'd read seem to be harder to get the right fittings for. All my liquid lines have FFL fittings on them, so I thought I'd go to Home Depot and see what I could find.

First off, it's great that they still sell the same sprayer ($6.87), almost four years after this post began! I took a FFL fitting with me, and talked to a guy in the plumbing department. He set me up two fittings - a 3/8 FIP x 1/4 FIP coupling ($2.98) and a 1/4 MIP x 1/4 MFL union ($3.40). So for just $13.25 (plus tax), one trip to Home Depot, and just three pieces, I have a sprayer that will attach to any FFL connection.

Thanks to geniz and everyone else that helped out with this post!

Line Cleaner.jpg
 
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