CO2 Tanks Size Recommendation?

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Lucky7s

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I have a 5# CO2 tank I currently use for 2 kegs in a fridge. I will be building a keezer very soon. At the moment I am thinking of 4-5 kegs on tap with the potential of 1-2 (right now my plans are for a 6-keg keezer) carbing. I will keep the tank outside the keezer. What size tank is recommended from you experience?

I'll keep the 5# charged for backup when the other tank needs refilling.
 
I have a few 20lb tanks and one 40. You cant go wrong with a 20lb....but YMMV.
 
If you're keeping it outside the fridge, go for the biggest one you can, probably a 20#. Less fills and cheaper $/lb when you do fill.
 
Another vote for the 20lber. It is really, really sad if you get a leak and drain your tank (only happened once, but it really rather sucks as I live 2.5 hrs from a co2 swapper) but unless that happen they last just about forever.

I ferment/crash cool in a barn and dispense in my garage so I actually just use the 20lb tank to force carb in the barn and then dispense with the 5lber which tucks nicely onto the hump in my keezer.
 
mikescooling said:
yep, 20lb tanks last a long time.

Results will depend on use I swap my 20# every couple of months 12 on tap and 4 in various carbed status waiting for something to kick :rockin:

image-2487515199.jpg
 
I use a 20# to carb my beers (warm), and I have a 10# in my 4 tap keezer. Being that is used just to "push" beer and not carbonate, it lasts me over a year between fills.
 
Another vote for the 20lber. It is really, really sad if you get a leak and drain your tank (only happened once, but it really rather sucks as I live 2.5 hrs from a co2 swapper) but unless that happen they last just about forever.

That's the first thing I thought of was losing 20lb of CO2 would really suck.

I have a 10# for force carbing and 2-5# for the keezers. That way if I get a leak I'm only out 5# of CO2. Even the 5# last a long time.
 
Compare prices between 5 pound setups and 20 pound setups. You get four times the gas for only twice the price with a 20 pound setup.

And when you go to refill you pay pretty close to the same amount for 5 pounds of gas and 20 pounds of gas, so...why not go for the 20 pounder?
 
Swapping tanks is a funny thing. It's not so much the cost of the gas, but the tank fee's. It cost 20$ to swap a ten pounder and 24$ to swap a twenty pounder. A better example, is O2, 10cf and 125cf both cost 20$ to swap at Airgas.
 
I don't think I've ever been to a place that fills co2. HVAC Supply houses only swap. Some of the steel tanks have been in service over a hundred years, you can see all the hydro stamps on the neck and foot. I could see how people would like "new and shinny" but for me, it's just another tank. Next time I go in to Airgas, I may trade up sizes or down, or for another gas like beer gas or C25. I understand that many would not want a nasty old tank in their clean house, but my house is not that clean. A nasty old tank fits my Ambiance, makes the statment "this guy likes beer and guns and girls that are a little crazy". Do not mix any of those things.
 
At least you won't get no Alzheimer's from steel...I got my tetanus shot though....
 
I understand that many would not want a nasty old tank in their clean house, but my house is not that clean. A nasty old tank fits my Ambiance, makes the statment "this guy likes beer and guns and girls that are a little crazy".

In general I'd agree, but if beer or another liquid backs up into a steel tank (which can certainly happen under the right conditions) it'll rust and lead to some funky off flavors. Actual "food grade" CO2 cylinders are supposedly glass-lined to prevent this. For me, I'll stick to my new shiny aluminum tank, who knows what's happened inside the old rusty steel one.

At least you won't get no Alzheimer's from steel...I got my tetanus shot though....

The "aluminum causes Alzheimer's" myth has been busted long ago.
 
For me, I'll stick to my new shiny aluminum tank, who knows what's happened inside the old rusty steel one.



Or what has gone on inside your "new" tank for that matter. Plenty of people have bought brand new Regulators only to find that they were not cleaned. The weld shop I use says most aluminum tanks come out of China or South America, so who knows really inside any tank. But these guys come over to drink at my place so they know where it's going (they also breakdown the tanks and valves for certification)
 
In general I'd agree, but if beer or another liquid backs up into a steel tank (which can certainly happen under the right conditions) it'll rust and lead to some funky off flavors. Actual "food grade" CO2 cylinders are supposedly glass-lined to prevent this. For me, I'll stick to my new shiny aluminum tank, who knows what's happened inside the old rusty steel one.



The "aluminum causes Alzheimer's" myth has been busted long ago.

I had no idea a co2 tank could be glass-lined. Can you give me more information on this? Link?
 
I had no idea a co2 tank could be glass-lined. Can you give me more information on this? Link?

Unfortunately no. Everything I've read about it has been on forums, I have nothing solid! The whole "food grade vs. non food grade" CO2 debate seems to be completely anecdotal. I can't find any hard evidence one way or another, and I can't find anyone selling glass-lined tanks. The only place is mentioned is when people talk about "food grade" CO2. :drunk:
 
Or what has gone on inside your "new" tank for that matter. Plenty of people have bought brand new Regulators only to find that they were not cleaned. The weld shop I use says most aluminum tanks come out of China or South America, so who knows really inside any tank. But these guys come over to drink at my place so they know where it's going (they also breakdown the tanks and valves for certification)

That's true. The number of new regulators that don't work due to crap in the diaphragm is pretty astounding, judging by all the "help my new regulator doesn't regulate" posts.
 
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