Sanke keg spear question

So I used a sanke keg as a fermenter. Removed the spear, used a carboy cap and an airlock. Worked fabulous.

Now it's time to cold crash it and get the beer out into Cornys.

I would like to put the spear back in and use CO2 to push the beer into the cornys.

My question is can I just put the spear in and not put that spring thingy back in? I'm assuming once I lock the sanke connector/dispenser in to pump out the beer will hold the spear in by itself?

Your co2 will leak out. You need the snap ring to make the "O" ring seal so you can pressurize it.

Poop, it was a pain taking the snap ring out it'll be a real PITA getting it back in

akthor said:

Poop, it was a pain taking the snap ring out it'll be a real PITA getting it back in

Click to expand...

It's really easy to get back in. Taking it out is harder, but also pretty quick and easy after a little practice. To replace it, simply get it started by hand, and then squeeze it into the groove with some pliers, working your way around. Should take 15 seconds tops. Also, if you align it so that the top end is just past one of the notches in the neck, it will make removing it easier for the next time.

Here ya go on installing the spiral ring...w/ a little practice it becomes easy to remove and reinstall...or hust use a racking cane as the sanke dip tube may extend into the yeast and suck that up also unless shortened.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/installing-retaining-ring-sanke-keg-64128/

St pats has a specialty "keg tool". It looks pretty look but it's almost 100 bucks

SS_Brewing_Co said:

St pats has a specialty "keg tool". It looks pretty look but it's almost 100 bucks

Click to expand...

Been doing it for years without a "keg tool" without issue...small sharp screwdriver for removal, small pliers or channel locks for installation.

No need to reinstall the spear to transfer.

I use a racking cane down the large bore hole, attached to the Liquid QD of the corny keg. I attach the gas line to the small bore on the carboy cap, and clamp it with a screw clamp. You might need to use a short length of racking cane to join the cap and the gas line, if your gas line wont fit over the spout on the carboy cap. Then just slowly increase the PSI, until the beer flows into your corny.

Hmmmm I had read that the first few ounces are trub then it runs clear using the spear and the CO2? This is a 10 gallon batch of blackberry wheat with 5lbs of picked then frozen and pureed and poured into the primary after about 2 weeks of primary fermentation. SO will it work or will trub be a problem? I don't have a racking cane that long (yet).

IF you use the valve/spear, you'll want to cut it shorter. Otherwise it will go down into the trub and try to push that into the first keg. From the sounds of it, that could be a significant amount for you.

I've used regular length racking canes to transfer from a tall 1/4bbl keg without issue. I would highly recommend fitting the other end of the tube (on the racking cane) to connect up to the liquid post on your serving keg(s). Then just hit the keg with some CO2 (a few PSI is all that's needed here), purge via the lid valve, then open the lid (so you can see when it's about full) but have a sanitized (StarSan soaked) towel or paper towel to cover the opening, and fill the keg. The remaining CO2 in the keg will blanket the beer as it flows into the keg. Using the liquid post means you only need to sanitize the inside of the tubing the beer is flowing through. This is the method I use to transfer from fermenter to serving keg (I have some TC caps adapted to pull via another dip tube).

Just remember, with the carboy cap on the keg, you only want/need a few PSI of CO2 to push the beer. Don't go too high, and have the second keg standing by to get the beer transferred to it. Using the liquid post also means you don't handle the tubing and then have to put it into the second keg. You can also use larger ID tubing for the beer transfer. I've set up a hose that's 5/16" ID for this. It allows more beer to flow through compared with the 3/16" tubing I was using. I fitted both ends with swivel nuts so that I can simply connect liquid QD's to both ends for the transfer.

wilserbrewer said:

Been doing it for years without a "keg tool" without issue...small sharp screwdriver for removal, small pliers or channel locks for installation.

Click to expand...

That's great. I also use a small screw driver and pliers. I just ran across that the other day and thought it was a neat little tool.

SS_Brewing_Co said:

St pats has a specialty "keg tool". It looks pretty look but it's almost 100 bucks

Click to expand...

I made one of those since I'm too cheap to spend $100 for something like that. I rarely use it though.

akthor said:

Hmmmm I had read that the first few ounces are trub then it runs clear using the spear and the CO2? This is a 10 gallon batch of blackberry wheat with 5lbs of picked then frozen and pureed and poured into the primary after about 2 weeks of primary fermentation. SO will it work or will trub be a problem? I don't have a racking cane that long (yet).

Click to expand...

I use the standard spear without any issues, but I've also never tried it with that much fruit. I do have two spears that I trimmed a little, but have found that even with the full length spear there's hardly any trub past the first couple ounces. Just transferred 14 gal of apfelwein out of a 1/2bbl sankey the other day, and the yeast cake was so compact after cold crashing that I didn't suck up any trub at all.

JuanMoore said:

I made one of those since I'm too cheap to spend $100 for something like that. I rarely use it though.



I use the standard spear without any issues, but I've also never tried it with that much fruit. I do have two spears that I trimmed a little, but have found that even with the full length spear there's hardly any trub past the first couple ounces. Just transferred 14 gal of apfelwein out of a 1/2bbl sankey the other day, and the yeast cake was so compact after cold crashing that I didn't suck up any trub at all.

Click to expand...

Apfelwine has almost zero yeast cake and no trub at all...I hate to think of what is at the bottom of that keg w/ 5 lbs of blackberries OMG...rack carefully young man or keep a few diapers handy for the first gallon or so...cheers!

Obviously it adds to cost, but I use this:

http://www.brewershardware.com/American-Sanke-Keg-Fermenter-Kit-with-Thermowell.html

I can transfer under pressure by keeping an MFL fitting on the end of my blowoff tube that connects to a CO2 line, and then can set the height of the racking cane just about trub level for a clean transfer.

bwarbiany said:

Obviously it adds to cost, but I use this:

http://www.brewershardware.com/American-Sanke-Keg-Fermenter-Kit-with-Thermowell.html

I can transfer under pressure by keeping an MFL fitting on the end of my blowoff tube that connects to a CO2 line, and then can set the height of the racking cane just about trub level for a clean transfer.

Click to expand...

So do I - I LOVE it.
It almost feels like cheating.

However, a racking cane through the carboy cap tube will effectively serve the same purpose.

Lower the racking cane into the fermenter and start the transfer under very little pressure. Lower the racking cane until you see the beer line go cloudy - Then raise about 1/8" or so. You'll get clear beer till the end.

For those of you that can easily get that spring do dad back in to hold the spear all I can is HOW? WTF! I tried and tried but couldn't do it grrrr so I finally just gave up and used the old syphon. Wasn't too bad. Amazingly it was easier than I thought to clean it out after.

Gonna have to get a racking cane and try it with the carbon cap for next time.

akthor said:

For those of you that can easily get that spring do dad back in to hold the spear all I can is HOW? WTF! I tried and tried but couldn't do it grrrr so I finally just gave up and used the old syphon. Wasn't too bad. Amazingly it was easier than I thought to clean it out after.

Gonna have to get a racking cane and try it with the carbon cap for next time.

Click to expand...

Spread the spiral ring apart and get the tail end started by hand, you should be able to get the bottom half in place easily. Once the spiral starts overlapping itself you'll need to start squeezing it in place with a pair of pliers, one jaw on the spiral ring, and one jaw on the outside of the neck. Work your way around until it's fully seated. I'm not sure how else to explain it. Maybe I can try taking a picture for you.

Edit: here's a decent video showing how it's done-

I tried it just like that but it kept slipping out maybe I bent it getting it out in the first place? Either way it's more of a PITA than its worth. Thanks for all the help tho.

akthor said:

I tried it just like that but it kept slipping out maybe I bent it getting it out in the first place? Either way it's more of a PITA than its worth. Thanks for all the help tho.

Click to expand...

If you bent the spiral ring, reinstallation can be near impossible.

akthor said:

For those of you that can easily get that spring do dad back in to hold the spear all I can is HOW? WTF! I tried and tried but couldn't do it grrrr so I finally just gave up and used the old syphon. Wasn't too bad. Amazingly it was easier than I thought to clean it out after.

Gonna have to get a racking cane and try it with the carbon cap for next time.

Click to expand...

If it's any consolation, I, too, cannot seem to figure out how to replace the spiral ring. I've read the techniques and watched the videos, but still cannot get the ring in place.