Brew gurus, cut up my recipe

Hey all, i am getting ready t make an IPA and want you to cut up my recipe. I'm thick skinned so let me have it.

10lb pale malt
1lb 20l crystal
1lb marris otter
1lb malto dextrine

1oz bitter orange peel (15min)
1oz Warrior pellet(60min)
1oz Cascade pellet(10min)
1oz warrior (10min)
1/2 oz cascade leaf 5 min
1/2 0z cascade dry hopprimary 1 week
2tbsp irish moss 15 min

nottingham yeast hydrated pitched at 70 degrees

2 month primary then keg
1 month condition
drink!

What do yall think?

How about some mash time/temps?
What's the planned OG and FG?

What's the maltodexerine for? If it's just to add body (because it is unfermentable), then just mash higher.

ready, aim, fire!

1 lb of crystal can be a lot - but if you do use a lb, keep the 20L like you have it now

I'd sub the MO with either Vienna or Munich

replace the 10 minute Warrior addition with something else - Warrior is a great bittering hop, but pretty low on the flavor/aroma.

why the bitter orange peel?

notty is a great yeast for IPA's - right up there with US-05.

Oh, and depending on your target OG/FG and your efficiency, I'd probably bump the pale to 11 lbs.

Pro mash puts my OG @ 1bout 1.065. My IBU's at 100 and i know that warrior isny a great aroma hop, thats why i went wuth the cascades at 5 and the dry hop.

I'm gonna mash 60 min at 160 for 1hr and sparge 20 at 170.

cant change the Marris otter, crushed and mixed. Just trying something different. Dextrine is just for head retention.

HillbillyDeluxe said:

cant change the Marris otter, crushed and mixed. Just trying something different. Dextrine is just for head retention.

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Malto dextrine will do nothing for head retention. You may be thinking of carapils dextrin malt, which many say will aiod head retention (although I have my doubts). Even with that, a lb. is far too much, IMO. .5 lb. would be miore than enough. But the best way to get head formation and retention is through proper brewing practices, including fermentation temp control and pitching the proper amount if yeast. As always, look at Duvel as an example. Nothing but pils malt and sugar...no carapils, no wheat malt, no fancy stuff....and it's got probably the best head of any beer around.

So are you really using dexerine malt (ie Carapils) and not "malto dextrine" which is in powder form and adds body (due to it's roughly 96% unfermentability)?

If so is it already crushed and in the mix? With that much crystal grain you may not really need any. At most 1/4# - 1/2# is the max I'd use in a 5gal batch.

I don't think I could wait 3 months to drink this one! Your hop flavor and aroma additions will fade significantly in that time. Maybe that was 2 weeks primary and 1 week keg conditioning?

Yeast can strip the aromatics from hops, so you're better off moving to a secondary or keg before adding your dry hops. Personally I'd leave this one in the primary for 2 weeks, move to secondary for the 1 week dry hop, then keg and carbonate. Taste it daily until it's perfect, or the keg is gone...

No one's going to mention the 160 degree mash temperature on an IPA?
Or no flavor hop additions?
Or the wimpy dry hopping?

Looks like a really full flavored beer. Have you used orange peel in an IPA before?

Why not use cascade instead of the warrior at 10 min? I have seen Warrior as a late addition in recipes, but never tried it.

I would probably mash a bit lower, 155.. my 2c. I like a little dryer.

Post how it turns out.

Needs more cow bell.


The Cascade hops sound great and I'm wondering how it will be with the orange peel>

160°F is FAR too high a mash temperature. I mash the majority of my beers at 150-152°F. I never go above 154°F.

I am adamantly opposed to the idea of an IPA with orange peel, but that's probably just because I'm a snob

Kumite!!!!

MeatyPortion said:

Needs more cow bell.


The Cascade hops sound great and I'm wondering how it will be with the orange peel>

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I've got a pale ale that used sweet orange peel and cascades. It's pretty nice. Although I think the cascades are overpowering anything I got from the orange.

AnOldUR said:

No one's going to mention the 160 degree mash temperature on an IPA?
Or no flavor hop additions?
Or the wimpy dry hopping?

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+1
Don't go higher than 155, up your late hop additions (5 minutes and less) and more dry hop is up to you... as long as you give er some flameout hops.

Not sure about the orange peel since this is an IPA, not a wit. But I'm all for trying new things.

IPA = hops

mkorpal said:

I've got a pale ale that used sweet orange peel and cascades. It's pretty nice. Although I think the cascades are overpowering anything I got from the orange.

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How much do you think you'd have to scale back the Cascades to get a decent balance?

What I did for my IPA was get 2oz of Amarillo and 2oz of cascades, mix them, add them slowly starting at the 20 min mark. you should add them so that you have 2 oz of the mix at flame out, and than add one oz at flame out and save the other ounce for dry hopping. It will give you a very nice layer of flavor and aroma (I ended up adding all 2 oz at flame out, but I think dry hopping with half would have been better) That is just my suggestion, so do whatever you feel like.

AZ_IPA said:

ready, aim, fire!

1 lb of crystal can be a lot - but if you do use a lb, keep the 20L like you have it now

I'd sub the MO with either Vienna or Munich

replace the 10 minute Warrior addition with something else - Warrior is a great bittering hop, but pretty low on the flavor/aroma.

why the bitter orange peel?

notty is a great yeast for IPA's - right up there with US-05.

Oh, and depending on your target OG/FG and your efficiency, I'd probably bump the pale to 11 lbs.

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Why do you say that 1lb of crystal is a lot? Just curious.

Mash at 160 and adding 1# Malto Dexerine (if that is indeed what you are planning on using) will mean you'll have to sample this with a spoon. While you're at it add some metamucil to really get it as thick as you can, then give a bunch to your BMC friends and watch them gag.
/a-hole

I say mash at 152.

MeatyPortion said:

How much do you think you'd have to scale back the Cascades to get a decent balance?

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I'm not sure. The recipe was .7oz simcoe for 60 min, .5oz cascade at 15min, and .5 oz at flameout. Quite honestly, I think the flavor profile is close enough that most people couldn't distinguish the difference between the two in beer. I would be interested in doing a recipe with it subbed to determine exactly what it gave. It was a friends suggestion, and it worked out well.

cut out the pale 2 row and just use the marris otter. it will give it more authentic flavor. but if you already have all the ingredients and have them milled together, then why ask us???

HillbillyDeluxe said:

Pro mash puts my OG @ 1bout 1.065. My IBU's at 100 and i know that warrior isny a great aroma hop, thats why i went wuth the cascades at 5 and the dry hop.

I'm gonna mash 60 min at 160 for 1hr and sparge 20 at 170.

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HillbillyDeluxe said:

cant change the Marris otter, crushed and mixed. Just trying something different. Dextrine is just for head retention.

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Ok, it's been said, but mash at 152-154. No higher. If you're batch sparging, use 180ish water in your first round, to get the grain bed up to 168. If you're fly sparging, it'll take much longer than 20 minutes, so plan for that.

If you're using carapils/dextrine malt, and it's already mixed, then you'll have to leave it in, I guess, but it's not needed. If it's malto-dextrine powder, ditch it for sure.

For hopping, lose the warrior at 10 minutes. You can sub just about anything else, though! Warrior is a great bittering hop, but not very good for a flavor hop. You can use cascade, centennial, simcoe, etc. instead.

I'd do something like this:

Warrior (60)
Cascade (20) (or other "c" hop)
Cascade (10) (again, or another appropriate hop)
Cascade (5)
Cascade (0)

Dryhop after primary for one week. Then, keg.

You need some later addition hops in there, some at 5 minutes, and some at flame out to balance it and make it an IPA. An ounce at flame out is NOT too much.

Edit- orange peel? Um, ok. Probably not my thing, but I'm sure you have a reason

OK My op was as you read.

My retorts however:

I like the warrior for the aroma hop, maybe i go to 1.5 at th 60 and .5 with the cascades at the 5, warrior.5 with it. Dry hop with the full one oz on the cascades?

Dextrine on the other hand i got one pound 8oz not 1lb(My bad). Previously i've used it for mouthfeel and head retention, not nessesary?

As fot the temps, Liquer is 175, resting temp on malt is 155. Sparge water goes in at 170, usually rests at 160 or so.

Keep it coming, i need all the help i can get. For the brew though, not spelling. We have already established i cant do that.

OH, almost forgot the orange peel.......

I like it, especially in the more hoppy beers i do. Gives that ciruicy flavor without bumping the IBU's. Ya'll should try it it works for me.

So you're basically replacing some of the flavor and aroma hops with the orange peel. Makes sense, but you couldn't hurt it by adding more flavor hops.

With a mash temp at 155 you shouldn't need extra body. Have you calibrated your thermometer? Those mash temps may not be what you think...

Trencher said:

So you're basically replacing some of the flavor and aroma hops with the orange peel. Makes sense, but you couldn't hurt it by adding more flavor hops.

With a mash temp at 155 you shouldn't need extra body. Have you calibrated your thermometer? Those mash temps may not be what you think...

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With dextrine malt (especially more than about 8 ounces) and a mash temp of 155, you'll need a spoon to consume this beer. This is in very heavy body territory, like a bock.

I'd really suggest a mash temp of 152 or 153 for this beer, and then get up to 168 during the sparge to stop conversion. I'm wondering if you're mashing at a high temp, but sparging low, if you're not getting some "benefits" by not denaturing the enzymes after the mash. That would mean a thinner body, but not very predictibly so. You might be better off to calibrate your themometer, mash at a "normal" mash temp, and then sparge with hotter water to stop conversion.

If you like the hops schedule, by all means stick with it.

water temp was 175, settle temp was 155. Sparged 3 gal at 170(settle was 160). Went with warrior at 60, warrior at 30 mt hood at 5 bitter orange at 5 and cascade for the dry hop. {all meaasurement is 1oz}b

also brews consumed for recipe were: 6pk Stone IPA, 6pk Sheltowee IPA, and 4 of my own SNPA clones at 8% abv.

Wont know how this turns out for quite some time. Sorry yoop, was kinda hung up on 4902!!! SWMBO was impressed as well. Wort is chillin now, forgot to hydrate yeast til now as well. Rollin wit tha buzz, we all been there!

Oh, by da way..... I left he malto dex out at r recomendaiton. WOW spellin gets worse as i drink!

16 beers would kill me....

really?!!!! I gotta work in the morning!

You must be a pro.

..or a lush?

mkorpal said:

I'm not sure. The recipe was .7oz simcoe for 60 min, .5oz cascade at 15min, and .5 oz at flameout. Quite honestly, I think the flavor profile is close enough that most people couldn't distinguish the difference between the two in beer. I would be interested in doing a recipe with it subbed to determine exactly what it gave. It was a friends suggestion, and it worked out well.

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Thanks. Something to think about.

HillbillyDeluxe said:

also brews consumed for recipe were: 6pk Stone IPA, 6pk Sheltowee IPA, and 4 of my own SNPA clones at 8% abv.

Wont know how this turns out for quite some time. Sorry yoop, was kinda hung up on 4902!!! SWMBO was impressed as well. Wort is chillin now, forgot to hydrate yeast til now as well. Rollin wit tha buzz, we all been there!

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If you can put away 16 beers while brewing does it really matter what your recipe is?

KayaBrew said:

Why do you say that 1lb of crystal is a lot? Just curious.

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sorry I missed this - but I'll concur with what Bob posted in the thread you started....

I've used 1+ lb in an IPA before (granted 60-80L), and it was just too much - unless it's a big IPA

pnj said:

16 beers would kill me....

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Last time I consumed 12+ beers while brewing (not counting the beers that came after brewing) I managed to drop my sweaty sunglasses in the cooled wort and proceed to dig them out with my sweaty (unsanatized) arm. Made good beer though, so I guess it doesnt matter.

I do like the idea of the orange peel in the IPA, though...

Orange Cascade pale ale is a big hit over here, not an IPA, but close to one and probably hoppier than many commercial IPA's.
yeah 16 of those beers and I would have passed out in the kettle.

You guys are all lightweights

WOW what a brew night. I didnt even remember the final recipe post. Turns our i could not find the final cascade hop pellets. I did have MT hoods though so(Trashed) i added them.

Final recipe best i c recall is:

10lb pale malt
1lb 20l crystal
1lb maris otter

1oz warrior 60
1oz warrior 30(I think)
2tbsp irish moss 15 min
1oz Mt Hoods 5
1oz bitter orange 5

Gonna dry hop in secondary with 1 oz of cascade leaf for 1 week when gravity bottoms.

I left out the 8oz of malto dex at the advice of you guys. I do like a heavy beer though.

og is 1.065ish as i vaguely remember.

promash makes the IBU's at 100(That was with cascades at 5 havent refigured for the Mt hoods

I didnt have the money handy or i would have cgone with 20z cascade 60, 2oz goldings 30, 2oz cascades 15, and 1 oz halleratu 5. Dry hop 1 week secondary. maybe next time.

And +1 on Deathbrewers comments, you guys are lightweights. And i am both a pro and a lush. I freely admit this. Now you all may mumble jealously amongst yourselves.