220v panel with 110v option

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mazultav

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Is there anything inherently dangerous about the following idea? I want to have a 110v input and output along with 220v so I can use my panel to control a smoker. Can I just have a 110v outlet wire to one of the same hot legs as the 220v coming into the panel and.another on the same hot leg controlled by the ssr?
 
With the appropriate GFCI breaker and wiring, there is no reason you can't or shouldn't run a separate 110v circuit from within your 220v panel. I'm doing that now with 220v running all the heater elements and 110v running the controllers, transformers, and pump.
 
You will probably want to fuse that 120 circuit within your panel so that it doesn't need to be wired for 50a currents. That will allow you to use reasonably sized conductors for this circuit.
 
Have you considered having only a 240V input, and using one of the hot legs and the neutral to create a 120V circuit, so you have both 240V and 120V outputs?
 
240v operation can increase the power while reducing the amperage demand and the wire size. It is preferable for that reason. It does increase the watt density on the element, which might not be preferable. But, that's what a PID or PWM is for.
 
I think the only advantage to running a separate 120V input is if you could run the whole system with it for some application, and then would not need access to 240V. If you plan to have access to 240V anyway, I would use it to create a separate 120V circuit inside the panel.
 
I already have the parts for the 240v setup. Other than a home depot spa panel. And I have 50a service in the garage.
 
50A service to your garage? Is this a sub panel? Good local ground and neutral tied to main panel?
 
Sorry just a 50 amp outlet, previous home owner ran a welder. Unthinking for now I'll just keep a 240v in and have a 120v out from the ssr
 
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