Hole Saw Set...OK for keggle drill?

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broadbill

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Hi all;

I'm planning on installing a weldless bulkhead in my keggle and I plan to drill a hole in the keg with a 7/8 inch holesaw.

I just saw this set of holesaws on the Northern tool website:

FREE SHIPPING — Northern Industrial Tools Deluxe Hole Saws — 3/4in. Dia. to 5in. Dia., 16-Pc. Set | Hole Saws | Northern Tool + Equipment

I realize that these bits are on the cheap end of the spectrum, but the price is really good (free shipping too!) and I can't justify buying a more expensive set since I don't plan to use these bit frequently.

Will they get the job done and get me a hole in my keg?

I'm looking at the set instead of individual bits as I'm also planning on installing some deadbolts in my house in the near future.

Any thoughts/opinions? (on drilling the keggle with these bits, not installing deadbolts:)

edit: Thanks for the help!
 
I've never done it, but I don't see it going well. Knowing what I know about cutting stainless, I doubt a hole saw would fare well.
 
First off, if you're going for a standard 1/2" NPT bulkhead, you want a 3/4" holesaw rather than 7/8". Holesaws tend to rip a slightly bigger hole than they're rated for, and also leave rough edges. Once you clean up the rough edges with a dremel or similar, it'll be just about right for the fitting. My stainless pipe nipple was a nice friction fit.

And yes, you DO want to be using a bi-metal holesaw that's rated for metal. I used a Ridgid brand 3/4" holesaw from home depot.

I've never done it, but I don't see it going well. Knowing what I know about cutting stainless, I doubt a hole saw would fare well.
Those won't work.

You need a step drill bit.
I have had some bad experiences drilling stainless, however the hole I did for my weldless valve with a holesaw was not one of them. I was actually shocked at how well it went - the pilot bit took a long time to go through (might be worth pre-drilling the pilot hole with a cobalt bit or similar), but the holesaw itself went through the stainless like butter. The hole cleaned up easily with a dremel and I'd say it was a resounding success overall.

There is a DIY for it over at the green board:
http://www.brewboard.com/index.php?showtopic=31646
 
I picked up a Bi-Metal Hole Saw from Lowes and it worked fine for my weld less fittings. If you are doing a bunch the step bit will hold up longer, but for 2 or 3 holes and some oil you should be fine.
 
+1 on the step drill. It also automatically de-burrs the hole so you don't have to clean it up at all. SO worth the extra cash. Plus it works really well on plastic as well.

Be sure to use some oil when drilling.
 
I used a hole saw. It worked but I didn't like how it seemed to walk around and make a bigger hole than what it was supposed to make. It worked out because I used a 7/8's and then opened it up a bit with one of those grinder bits that go in a drill.
 
If you have a Harbor Freight near you, you can get one cheap and just throw it away when you are done.
That's assuming it will even make it through one use. Those harbor freight step drills are titanium nitride coated. A week or so ago I ruined a couple regular drill bits of the same material trying to drill through the handle area of the keg, so I would be wary of the step drill's ability to do the same.

I did briefly test out my harbor-freight step drill bits on the top of the keggle that was cut out, and it did not feel like it was doing a very good job cutting. I used some oil and tried to be careful but it was not cutting very fast, was squealing a lot, and didn't feel like it was making much progress, so I stopped before I ruined the bit. It may well be possible to get all the way up to 7/8" with a cheapo harbor freight step drill but it didn't seem that likely to me.

Of course, a name-brand step drill bit would fare much better if you pony up the $$$.
 
Those won't work.

You need a step drill bit.

Trust him... He knows what he's doing :D Keggle_3.JPG


On a more serious note, I wouldn't drill your holes with anything other than a step drill bit. While a hole saw could work you won't get the same results.
 
I'm not going to keep beating this dead horse her...but I think you guys are either getting wood saws, or you are not using a pilot bit, or you just don't have a lot of experience using power tools. I'm not trying to offend anyone here, but you are recommending to this guy that he needs to use a bit that is 4 times the cost (200% more expensive for those of you in Rio Linda) of a good bi-metal hole saw. The hole say will give 100% results when used properly. If you are smoking the bit...you're doing it wrong! If it takes you more than about 30 seconds to drill through the keg, You are doing it wrong.
Metal is not like wood, and you CAN NOT drill through it as fast as your little Black and Decker will spin the bit. SLOW DOWN and lubricate the bit. If you are using the proper type of hole saw, you'll be in and done in less than a minute, and you'll have an extra $30 in your pocket.
 
Those won't work.

You need a step drill bit.

You're taking keggle advice from BM?:eek:


The man has a point though. Personally I would use a step bit. But I work in construction and tools are my livelyhood.......maybe I'm a tool snob.



EDIT: DAMN IT!!!!!! dblvsn beat me to it!
 
I know I'm beating a dead horse here, but a hole saw will work fine. I use them every day for my job. But if you want to spend the coin, go ahead. here's a thought, though: with the $ you save not buying a unibit, you could buy ingredients for a couple batches of beer!
 
My Lenox bi-metal hole saw cut through holes in 2 kegs with no oblongation or squealing. I think the setup cost less than $15. Don't remember if I drilled a pilot hole first.
 
I drill stainless quite often for my job. ... I tried bi metal hole saws. They work but be darn sure to get something good to cool it while you drill. If you can find it. Tapmatic is great stuff. BUT IMHO - get a step bit and still use the tapmatic cutting fluid. Step bits are much better and less frustration.

Which ever you use.
1. Go slow
2. Use a cutting fluid of some sort. Even dish soap works in a pinch.
3. Go slow
4. Go slow
5. Go slow.....

If the metal gets blue or red it is getting harder and will be a ***** to drill.

Good luck.

Almost forgot -Lenox bi metal bits are one of the few decent ones made for stainless. Their only faults for the hole saw and step bits are they are not cheap.
 
Guys,

No Offense intended, but before I get started, excuse the sarcasm! I just got back from Homebrew club meeting and have had entirely too much Spaten Ocktoberfest!!!!

So Here goes!!!

Bruitful Hole there!!!! It is not rocket science! If you are welding it, a half way descent welder can make it look really nice and you will never know it. Or if you are using one of those weld-less thingy's, the nut is big enough to cover any blemishes. Now are ya home brewing on a budget or setting up a fancy brew house?

If on a budget get a bi-metal hole saw, if not get the step bit or just let the welder figure it out!!!!!!!
 
Which ever you use.
1. Go slow
2. Use a cutting fluid of some sort. Even dish soap works in a pinch.

That is the best advice in the entire thread.

Have your wife/partner/child/brother-in-law/brew-buddy/total-stranger lay down cutting oil on the tool while you cut the hole and all will be well regardless of which tool you're using. If you see smoke you're not using enough oil.
 
The harbor freight step bits work fine.

I've drilled about 10 holes with mine through stainless kegs and its still sharp enough to drill more.

I just have a spray bottle with water and have wife or friends spritz the hole as I cut it.

Slow down the drill, apply pressure and keep the bit and hole area cool and it takes less than 60 seconds to drill a hole.
 
If you have kids at home make a little pool area out of playdoh where you are going to cut and fill it with your coolant, or water if you don't have coolant. This will let you solo through it remember if you heat it up it will get VERY hard. Drill steel like you make bbq low and slow.
 
That's assuming it will even make it through one use. Those harbor freight step drills are titanium nitride coated. A week or so ago I ruined a couple regular drill bits of the same material trying to drill through the handle area of the keg, so I would be wary of the step drill's ability to do the same.

I did briefly test out my harbor-freight step drill bits on the top of the keggle that was cut out, and it did not feel like it was doing a very good job cutting. I used some oil and tried to be careful but it was not cutting very fast, was squealing a lot, and didn't feel like it was making much progress, so I stopped before I ruined the bit. It may well be possible to get all the way up to 7/8" with a cheapo harbor freight step drill but it didn't seem that likely to me.

Of course, a name-brand step drill bit would fare much better if you pony up the $$$.

The Harbor Freight step bit worked fine for me as long as you go slow and oil it. I admit that eventually they turn to junk and need to be thrown away, but they will drill through a keggle with no problems and leave a nice clean hole.
 
If you have kids at home make a little pool area out of playdoh where you are going to cut and fill it with your coolant, or water if you don't have coolant. This will let you solo through it remember if you heat it up it will get VERY hard. Drill steel like you make bbq low and slow.

This is a pretty cool (no pun intended) tip!
 
Hi Again Everyone;

Thanks to everyone for the advice and discussion! I decides to give the el-cheapo step drill bits a go (suggested by displaced Masshole) as the price was right it might be nice to have down the line (if the bit isn't destroyed by going through the side of the keg!).

Also good advice to go low and slow....thanks again!
 
yeah as stated several times, those are definitely NOT for metal a step drill is a little more but will the job much more efficiently.
 
I haven't done a keg, but I cut a hole in our stainless sink to install a soap dispenser. I drilled a 1/8" hole with a regular drill bit, then routed the hole out using a stainless steel router bit for my Dremel. It took about 20 minutes, but the Dremel bit was about $6.
 
The harbor freight step bits work fine.

I've drilled about 10 holes with mine through stainless kegs and its still sharp enough to drill more.

Agreed. I've used my HF step bits for many jobs, including the holes in my stainless kettle. It worked great, and will continue to.

I think Harbor Freight tools get a bad rap. Some of them are horrible junk, but others are quite adequate for typical household purposes. Obviously those bits aren't suitable if you drill holes in stainless for a living, 5 days a week. But for us DIY types who drill a few holes a month, they are a great value.
 
Olah! Problem is I need to drill a 4 inch (just over 100mm) hole in the top of my keg.
I haven't seen a step drill that size so hard, slow and lubricated bi metal core drill it is eh?
 
That's how I drilled holes in my kegs, none were 4 inches tough. Used a higher quality set, you can even speed up some once hole outline established. Buy a spare pilot bit or two.
 
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