Yeast Starter Question

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amrmedic

amrmedic

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Ok, I made a 2L starter of 1056. Now if I take the sediment from that 2L starter and add it to a fresh 2L starter, will I get the same amount of yeast as if I had made 1 4L starter?

And if train A leaves LA at 11 traveling 55 mph and train b leaves Washington DC at midnight at 75 miles an hour, when do they crash? LOL
 
Isn't 1056 the same as US-05, but 1/3rd the cells for twice the price?

I'm really not trying to be snarky. I'm pretty new, that's what I heard and it just doesn't make sense.
 
tally350z said:
No.. You will have more with the step starter.
Click to expand...

what he said. But make sure you let all the yeast settle to the bottom before you decant the liquid from the 1st starter. Otherwise your tossing any yeast that were still swimming. I let it set for a day in a cold fridge to settle out.
 
bleme said:
Isn't 1056 the same as US-05, but 1/3rd the cells for twice the price?

I'm really not trying to be snarky. I'm pretty new, that's what I heard and it just doesn't make sense.
Click to expand...


True but that's not what the OP asked. Also, some people prefer to use liquid yeast over the dried stuff.
 
I was going to cold crash it, decant it, then add the cooled wort to the flask.

Also, I prefer liquid yeast to dry yeast. I get better and more consistent results from them. This is personal preference.
 
Make sure you let the yeast warm up slowly to roughly the same temp as the wort. I read somewhere else on here that tossing cold yeast into warm wort can shock the yeast and may even mutate it.

Again, just repeating from people who seemed to know what they were talking about. I don't have the equipment to test DNA myself. :mug:
 
I am trying to make a yeast starter for my dfh 120 clone.

If I brew a breakfast stout using 1056, can I use the yeast cake for the dfh 120? I am thinking this maybe like a 5 gallon starter or will the yeast be beat up as it is like 7% abv?
 
amrmedic said:
I am trying to make a yeast starter for my dfh 120 clone.

If I brew a breakfast stout using 1056, can I use the yeast cake for the dfh 120? I am thinking this maybe like a 5 gallon starter or will the yeast be beat up as it is like 7% abv?
Click to expand...

It would depend on how healthy the yeast was going into the stout. If you made a good starter of healthy yeast for the stout batch then they have a much better chance of being in good shape at the end of that ferment
 
If your yeast can't handle a 7% brew then it has no business near a DFH 120. I would consider a different yeast if in fact you are going for a 120 clone. 1056 says it has an 11% tolerance... check the abv on a 120.
 
Maybe this is a better answer to your question... The 120 clone is gonna need yeast in peak condition and it will need quite a bit of yeast to get the job done. Making a "donor" batch and using the cake is a good idea but there are some tips to maximizing that effect.

1st... Make sure the donor batch has a good ferment. Make a starter for this batch. Pitch the proper amount of healthy yeast, oxygenate the wort, and properly control the fermentation temps.

2nd... Make the donor batch a beer style that lends itself to re pitching. A weak beer that is low on hops. Something in the 1.040 range that is not bitter. An English mild or a Scottish 60 are good choices. I'm not saying the 7% stout won't work but it's not the best situation for the yeast health and when you try to make something like 120 you REALLY need to think about having the best yeast possible.

Does that help?
 
maida7 said:
Maybe this is a better answer to your question... The 120 clone is gonna need yeast in peak condition and it will need quite a bit of yeast to get the job done. Making a "donor" batch and using the cake is a good idea but there are some tips to maximizing that effect.

1st... Make sure the donor batch has a good ferment. Make a starter for this batch. Pitch the proper amount of healthy yeast, oxygenate the wort, and properly control the fermentation temps.

2nd... Make the donor batch a beer style that lends itself to re pitching. A weak beer that is low on hops. Something in the 1.040 range that is not bitter. An English mild or a Scottish 60 are good choices. I'm not saying the 7% stout won't work but it's not the best situation for the yeast health and when you try to make something like 120 you REALLY need to think about having the best yeast possible.

Does that help?
Click to expand...

Yes this does. That was the main point of my question. I had a feeling that the yeast cake from my stout might leave the yeast a little abused and not in the best shape for the 120. I think I am going to spend the $6 for a new pack of 1056 and build up a monster starter of fresh yeast.

On the oxygenation set up, where do you get your O2 from? Do you go to a gas distributor like where you get CO2 from? I have a fish tank pump and a bubbling stone that I have used in the past, but this is only room air which is 21% O2. It would be great to give it a shot of 100% pure O2.
 
I get my o2 from home depot. It comes in red cans for welding and it's pretty cheap that way. You will need a valve. Most homebrew shops sell the valves with tubing and a SS sintered stone.
 
maida7 said:
I suppose you could but for the price it's way easier to just buy a second packet
Click to expand...

True, although around here they are starting to approach White Labs/Wyeast in terms of price. It's $4 for dry and $6.99 for liquid. Not the amazing difference it used to be.
 

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