Step by Step build a 110v portable PID controller

thekraken said:

That's 12.5A, that + a pump might be cutting it close for a 15A circuit. I can't find a diagram on that Leviton so I can't be much help in regard to wiring. Once you get it in hand there will be a diagram on the box.

Click to expand...

Okay, looks like I will have to get the parts and then touch base. I plan to use the pump linked below though which says on the site it pulls 1.05A so shouldn't I be fine with that and the 1500W element? Thanks again for the help!

http://brausupply.com/products/brew-pump-24v

mwm5461 said:

I plan to use the pump linked below though which says on the site it pulls 1.05A so shouldn't I be fine with that and the 1500W element?

Click to expand...

You're looking at about 13/15 amps so I suppose you should be fine, so long as we're not talking about more than 3 hours of continuous use. What size is the circuit breaker you are putting this on?

thekraken said:

You're looking at about 13/15 amps so I suppose you should be fine, so long as we're not talking about more than 3 hours of continuous use. What size is the circuit breaker you are putting this on?

Click to expand...

15 amps. I definitely wouldn't get close to more than 3 hours of continuous use.

mwm5461 said:

15 amps. I definitely wouldn't get close to more than 3 hours of continuous use.

Click to expand...

Finally, is this for a ebiab as in the first post?

I only ask because depending on what you are doing I might wire it so the element can't fire unless the pump is switched on.

thekraken said:

Finally, is this for a ebiab as in the first post?

I only ask because depending on what you are doing I might wire it so the element can't fire unless the pump is switched on.

Click to expand...

Yes it is for an ebiab set up. I plan to have this ebiab set up http://brausupply.com/products/unibrau-120v-5-gallon-brew-boss-automated-brew-system

Except to save money I'm obviously trying to build my own controller instead of purchasing the brau supply one.

mwm5461 said:

I plan to get this model switch/receptacle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004YUMX/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Click to expand...

For community review

Option #1) Wired as themightyquinn's diagram, element switch enables element and turns on the PID


Option #2) PID is always on, element switch ONLY switches element. This way you can program your PID before the element goes hot. Might should add one more "Light" switch at the input to switch power to the whole box.

Thank you! However, I'm not quite sure I understand what you mean in option #2 when you say "element switch ONLY switches element."

mwm5461 said:

Thank you! However, I'm not quite sure I understand what you mean in option #2 when you say "element switch ONLY switches element."

Click to expand...

In option #1 when you flip the element switch the PID controller is then powered on as well as enabling the heating element to be controlled by the SSR. This is the way it was wired in the first diagram that you asked about.

In option #2 the PID controller is independent of the element switch. The PID will always be on as long as you're plugged into the wall. The element switch is just a manual disconnect for the heating element. This way you can just monitor the temperature or program the PID without the element being able to fire off before you're ready. This is probably the way I'd do it.

Disclaimer: I'm just some guy on the internet. You should get some more experienced opinions first.

thekraken said:

In option #1 when you flip the element switch the PID controller is then powered on as well as enabling the heating element to be controlled by the SSR. This is the way it was wired in the first diagram that you asked about.

In option #2 the PID controller is independent of the element switch. The PID will always be on as long as you're plugged into the wall. The element switch is just a manual disconnect for the heating element. This way you can just monitor the temperature or program the PID without the element being able to fire off before you're ready. This is probably the way I'd do it.

Disclaimer: I'm just some guy on the internet. You should get some more experienced opinions first.

Click to expand...

I guess I don't see much of a difference since whenever I use the PID I'll be using the element as well. Does anyone have any pros to one way over the other?

mwm5461 said:

I guess I don't see much of a difference since whenever I use the PID I'll be using the element as well. Does anyone have any pros to one way over the other?

Click to expand...

If your PID can be powered on while your element is powered off, then you will be able to read the temperature. That's how I would go.

mwm5461 said:

I guess I don't see much of a difference since whenever I use the PID I'll be using the element as well.

Click to expand...

If it were me, I would go with option #2 also.

You say you will be using the PID the same time as the element....... but one day, something will happen. A buddy show up, kids do something stupid, wife interrupts you with... what ever!, but something will happen, and 5 minutes flies by and "poof" your heating elements toast!

I program industrial controls, and I always have to qualify a pump (prove status and flow) before I turn on any equipment, it's just good practice.

Looks like option #2 is the way to go. I greatly appreciate all the advice.

What did you use for your element enclosure to go into the kettle?? Maybe I missed that?

jcs401 said:

What did you use for your element enclosure to go into the kettle?? Maybe I missed that?

Click to expand...

A lot of people recommend this: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/hotpod-ewl3.htm

The kraken Did you build your box ?

thekraken said:

For community review

Option #1) Wired as themightyquinn's diagram, element switch enables element and turns on the PID

Option #2) PID is always on, element switch ONLY switches element. This way you can program your PID before the element goes hot. Might should add one more "Light" switch at the input to switch power to the whole box.

Click to expand...

Hi Guys,

After much time reading through threads similar to this I've decided to build a slightly modified Countertop Brutus 20. I have a two pot system with a 10 GA mash tun with a 10 GA kettle equipped to do 5 GA batches. I'm putting in a 1500W element in the kettle to utilize during a RIMS cycle during the 80% volume mash (followed with the other 20% volume room temperature sparge water).

I'll also use the element to heat the wort in the boil alongside my gas stove. Here's where I need help, I have all the parts to wire up my control panel but I wanted to verify a wiring diagram that works with my setup.

I figured this was the best place to post because this control panel is closest to mine. The above Diagram option #2 (that was first mentioned by themightyquinn and then modified by thekraken) is exactly what I'd like to wire my control panel to.

Here's some pictures of what I have so far.

Dropabeet said:

Hi Guys,

After much time reading through threads similar to this I've decided to build a slightly modified Countertop Brutus 20. I have a two pot system with a 10 GA mash tun with a 10 GA kettle equipped to do 5 GA batches. I'm putting in a 1500W element in the kettle to utilize during a RIMS cycle during the 80% volume mash (followed with the other 20% volume room temperature sparge water).

I'll also use the element to heat the wort in the boil alongside my gas stove. Here's where I need help, I have all the parts to wire up my control panel but I wanted to verify a wiring diagram that works with my setup.

I figured this was the best place to post because this control panel is closest to mine. The above Diagram option #2 (that was first mentioned by themightyquinn and then modified by thekraken) is exactly what I'd like to wire my control panel to.

Here's some pictures of what I have so far.

Click to expand...

@dropabeet did you wire your controller according to the #2 diagram? If so did it work? I'm looking to do something very similar and would like to know if the diagram is correct (I understand that the ground / neutral may be different according to the switch I purchase).

Thanks in advance

I'm too looking for a controller and just did a quick cost tally on the parts based on today's prices and come up with $103 from Amazon and $69 from Auberins...Net $172 round numbers... So let's say $190 to 200 even complete assuming shipping and some odds and ends that one may or may not already have... I'm thinking to go with the basic EZ-Boil Controller instead which only costs a few dollars more...
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=53&products_id=560...

Zmanwithdog said:

I'm too looking for a controller and just did a quick cost tally on the parts based on today's prices and come up with $103 from Amazon and $69 from Auberins...Net $172 round numbers... So let's say $190 to 200 even complete assuming shipping and some odds and ends that one may or may not already have... I'm thinking to go with the basic EZ-Boil Controller instead which only costs a few dollars more...
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=53&products_id=560...

Click to expand...

ez boil unit is much better than a pid..I have used and own both...

May I aso suggest you check ebay and sort by price... You will likely find the same seller from amazon selling on ebay for less. I usually do. I would strongly recommend a pt100 temp sensor like this. http://www.ebay.com/itm/RTD-Pt100-T...560657&hash=item1eb2a071b4:g:lL0AAOSwqBJXXWGy

or this one which is better yet..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RTD-PT100-T...946264?hash=item280fedfa98:g:1SAAAOSw-zxWm6lk

I have both types and preffer the second type since the plugs are easier to use and the cable doesnt kink and is stronger than the stainless braided stuff.

also look at mager brand ssrs, they are the supplier of the ssrs auberins rebrands and sells for double the price plus shipping...

this one is the same ssr as auber sells only with a heat sink for $15 shipped..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mager-40A-S...637494&hash=item5b2516545a:g:MWoAAOSwo0JWJzxJ

you can built this exact enclosure for about $100... 120v plugs and outlets are cheap compared to 240v.

I realize this is an old thread, but I just found it and I'm converting my pot using Disintegr8or's design. What part was used on the pot to connect the thermocouple?

Poppajim said:

I realize this is an old thread, but I just found it and I'm converting my pot using Disintegr8or's design. What part was used on the pot to connect the thermocouple?

Click to expand...

I don't know, maybe a compression fitting in the side of the pot?
https://www.brewhardware.com/category_s/1842.htm

On that note, does one even need a temperature probe for a boil controller?

Savagejair said:

The kraken Did you build your box ?

Click to expand...

Sorry I'm responding a year later... better late than never right?

I didn't build this box. I did build a 240v box inspired by this thread. All it is is a 240v "light" switch for on off and a linear potentiometer connected to a $3 arduino for faux pwm to a ssr. Works great for boil controller, and cheap too.

Thanks for this post. I just built one and I love it. I got my hands on a turbo 500 boiler brand new for $50 and use this with is like a grainfather setup only I use it to do a precise mash only and run off to my boil kettle.

I'm almost done with this build. I wasn't clear about what to use to attach the heat probe, but did plenty of research. It's all good.

Poppajim said:

I'm almost done with this build. I wasn't clear about what to use to attach the heat probe, but did plenty of research. It's all good.

Click to expand...

What did you go with?

1/2" weldless bulkhead with a fitting to accept the 1/4-20 probe end.

MusicalBrewer said:

@dropabeet did you wire your controller according to the #2 diagram? If so did it work? I'm looking to do something very similar and would like to know if the diagram is correct (I understand that the ground / neutral may be different according to the switch I purchase).

Thanks in advance

Click to expand...

@MusicalBrewer Sorry for the late response. Yes I went with option #2, works just as described - as long as your wire the switches correctly. Here's a picture of the finished interior.

So to clarify does the original wiring diagram (without intergrated pump) allow for the pid to be powered on while the Element is switched off?

Hondor06 said:

So to clarify does the original wiring diagram (without intergrated pump) allow for the pid to be powered on while the Element is switched off?

Click to expand...

I'm wondering the same thing.. maybe someone can chime in.

Hondor06 said:

So to clarify does the original wiring diagram (without intergrated pump) allow for the pid to be powered on while the Element is switched off?

Click to expand...

Negative.

so the switch is just for the entire system (pid and outlet)?

Affirmative.

If you want the PID to have power when ever it's plugged into the wall you could modify the original schematic like so:



now the switch cuts power to the SSR and element only.

Whether or not this is advisable, idk. I personally would like to have a "master" switch to kill power to everything which the original drawing achieves, and a second switch for element on/off. Light switches are cheap.

If you have a main AC on/off switch, its easier to just use a small DC switch to turn off the SSR control signal (+) for the element.

The problem with that is if he SSR fails on the on state you could have the signal switch turned off but the element circuit would still be hot and not know it.

thekraken said:

The problem with that is if he SSR fails on the on state you could have the signal switch turned off but the element circuit would still be hot and not know it.

Click to expand...

If there wasnt a signal switch, you wouldnt know the SSR was stuck on either......

But the outlet switch would still be effective.

So would the main switch. Just turn it off.

Easy enough when you know there is a problem. The point is that if there is a failure a switch on the 120v line will still behave as expected. For example a failed ssr won't be the cause of a dry fire, where as with the configuration you're suggesting you could plug in the controller and have power going to your elements and not know it, dry firing and ruining an element. A switch on the AC side avoids this particular scenario. A dry fire with a switch on the AC side is purely operator error.

Fair enough. I suppose that's a pretty safe way of doing it. I guess i live life on the edge.

Hey it all makes good beer. Just different design considerations.