Love vs. Auber

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jcav

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I am taking the financial plunge and building a Brutus 10. The stainless stand is at the welder's and I'm trying to make good sound choices in getting her set up. I have learned so much from reading everyone else's builds that are posted on this forum and this is the internet at it's best!

I just want to know if there are any real functionality differences between the two controllers (Love & Auber), and if so why is one better than the other. Or does it just come down to personal preference like Coke or Pepsi? From what I can see I think most people using the Auber controller seem to use RTD temp probes with it. I don't know much about this though.............

Any thoughts would be appreciated. I still have a lot of questions but I have to start somehere. I will post some picks as the build progresses.......
 
Love is a fairly simple, on / off controller great fro situations where the temp doesn't fluctuate a great deal and precise control is less important.

The Auber PID is a "smart" device that will very quickly "pulse" the heat element on/off to allow it to avoid overshooting and precisely maintain temps.

Love = good for ferm chambers & kegorators
Auber/PID = Good for controlling/maintaining mash temps for brewing.
 
Excellent! That answers that. I really want control on keeping the mash temp exactly where I want it. Thanks to both of you for replying.
 
One more question on that. I forgot to tell you will be using the Lp gas coming from the gas beam. I am going to use 1/2 inch Honeywell standing pilot light valves with thermocouples for safety, and low pressure 10 inch banjo burners on Hlt and Bk, and a 9 inch banjo style burner on the mlt, with a Marshal 299 low pressure two stage regulator for flame control. Will the Auber Pid be compatable with the Honeywell valves and will the valves be able to fire on and off, or is the Auber Pid for electric heating elements only?
 
Can someone post a link to a good controller/probe
I am a bit overwhelmed by the choices and don't want to buy the wrong stuff.:D
 
Can someone post a link to a good controller/probe
I am a bit overwhelmed by the choices and don't want to buy the wrong stuff.:D

I like THIS one for my application. The available thermal probes are on that site as well. It's a relay style so doesn't have the SSR output voltage if you need it. The dual displays are very helpful because it keeps your set point visible. Single displays have to toggle between what you set and the actual value.

When using these PID controllers for gas control you have to adjust parameters to get the best performance. For instance, on a Love controller it won't turn off until it hits the setpoint. This will cause an overshoot as the thermal mass catches up. On a PID, it will see it's approaching the setpoint and begin to reduce the heat so it eases to the right temp and stays there. It's the parameter values for the PID that customize it for your heat source and vessel.
 
When using these PID controllers for gas control you have to adjust parameters to get the best performance. For instance, on a Love controller it won't turn off until it hits the setpoint. This will cause an overshoot as the thermal mass catches up. On a PID, it will see it's approaching the setpoint and begin to reduce the heat so it eases to the right temp and stays there. It's the parameter values for the PID that customize it for your heat source and vessel.

Here is one way to control gas with a PID:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/gas-temperature-control-dummies-116632/
 
Thanks Ricand and Sawdustguy. Ricand how does the pid ease off before the set point, does is just send a signal to close the valve to the burner, since I am not using an electric element?

Sawdustguy, that is a great option, do you see any problem with the ignition system signals, current, etc. interfearing with the electric components in the main control box?
 
Thanks Ricand and Sawdustguy. Ricand how does the pid ease off before the set point, does is just send a signal to close the valve to the burner, since I am not using an electric element?

Sawdustguy, that is a great option, do you see any problem with the ignition system signals, current, etc. interfearing with the electric components in the main control box?

The gas is digital, either on or off. The PID will start cutting the gas off for seconds at a time as it approaches the set point. The pulse period is proportional to the distance from the set point. Of course, you have to have a pilot light. :D
 
Thanks Ricand for clearing that up. From prior posts I got confused on the pulsing part, I thought this was more for an electric element and the pulsing slowly adjusting the heater element, making the power to the element get less or more intense without shutting it completely off, as it sensed the set points. I could not picture how it could do that with gas, as the valve is either on or off. This automation stuff is all new to me...... I usually brew manually. :eek:
 
Thanks Ricand and Sawdustguy. Ricand how does the pid ease off before the set point, does is just send a signal to close the valve to the burner, since I am not using an electric element?

Sawdustguy, that is a great option, do you see any problem with the ignition system signals, current, etc. interfearing with the electric components in the main control box?

I have used this configuration sucessfully with (2) Auber PID's but I was very careful with grounding and kept the S8610U away from the control panel.
 
I have used this configuration sucessfully with (2) Auber PID's but I was very careful with grounding and kept the S8610U away from the control panel.

Thanks Guy for replying, I will keep that in mind. I think I am leaning toward not having an automatic iginition system and just going with the pilot light and thermocouple for safety.
 
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